Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps 10th Edition Edited by Hilda Butler Editor and Consultant to the Cosmetic Industry KLUWER ACADEMIC PUBLISHERS DORDRECHT / BOSTON / LONDON Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available ISBN 0-7514-0479-9 Published by Kluwer Academic Publishers, P.O Box 17, 3300 AA Dordrecht, The Netherlands Sold and distributed in North, Central and South America by Kluwer Academic Publishers, 101 Philip Drive, Norwell, MA 02061, U.S.A In all other countries, sold and distributed by Kluwer Academic Publishers, P.O Box 332, 3300 AH Dordrecht, The Netherlands Publisher's Note: This edition of Poacher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps is the tenth edition of what was formerly Volume of the ninth edition of Poacher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps (ISBN 0-412-27360-8) Printed on acid-free paper First edition 1923 Ninth edition 1993 published by Chapman & Hall Tenth Edition © 2000 Kluwer Academic Publishers All rights reserved No part of the material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission from the copyright owners Printed and bound in Great Britain by Antony Rowe Limited Contributors Grace Abamba, MSc, DMS, PGCE Technical Manager Superdrug Stores PLC 118 Beddington Lane Croydon, CRO 4TB UK Michael Brown, BSc (Hons) CChem MRSC Scientific Advisor (Suncare) Boots Contract Manufacturing D98 Ground 160 Nottingham, NG90 2JF UK Hilda Butler, CChem, FRSC Cosmetics Consultant/Editor Foxdell Northwood Middlesex, HA6 2BU UK John S Cannell, MSc FRPharmS, CChem, FRSC, MBIRA 16 Hiltingbury Road Chandlers Ford Eastleigh Hampshire, SO53 5ST UK Nicola A Fardell, BSc (Hons) Boots Contract Manufacturing D98 First 173 Nottingham, NG90 2JF UK Jean Ann Graham, MSc, PhD Psychological Research Consultant Flat 12, 94 St George's Square London, SWlV 3QY UK Anthony L.L Hunting, BSc Proprietor Micelle Press 10-12 UlIswater Crescent Weymouth Dorset, DT3 5HE UK Philip Klepak, Director, Technical Services Reheis Inc Berkeley Heights New Jersey 07922 USA John L Knowlton, CChem, MRSC, SCS Dip Consultant/Proprietor Cosmetic Solutions PO Box 8456 Centurion 0046 South Africa Carol E Lees, B.Pharm R&D Category Manager Sara Lee Household & Body Care Ltd 225 Bath Rd, Slough Berks, SLl 4AU UK Stephen Mason, PhD, CChem., MRSC Quintiles 79 High Street Bracknell, RG2 IDZ UK J.R McAllister, PhD, CChem, MRSC TQ Associates Langdon Lodge Eastgate, Hornsea East Riding, HU18 IDP UK John D Middleton, BA(Oxon), Dip R C Path Toxicologist Quest International Ashford Kent, TN24 OLT UK Bryan P Murphy, PhD Associate Director, Product development Bristol-Myers Squibb Worldwide Beauty Care Blachley Road Stamford, CT06922 USA Paul Paniccia, BSc, ARCS, CChem., MRSC Formulation Research Manager Gillette R&D Laboratories 454 Basingstoke Rd Reading Berks, RG2 OQE UK Pauline A Riley, BSc, CChem, MRSC S Black (Import and Export)Ltd Foxholes Business Park John Tate Road Hertford Herts, SG13 7YH UK Marion E Roberts, BSc(Hons) 1, Blackhouse Farm Cottages Bradwell Road St Lawrence Southminster Essex, CMO 7LH UK Mitchell L Schlossman Kobo Products 690 Montrose Ave South Plainfield NJ 07080 USA Kenneth Spears, BSc, MPhil, PGCE, FIFST School Academic Director School of Applied Science South Bank University 103 Borough Road London, SEl OAA UK Norman J Van Abbe, FRPharmS Esher Surrey, KTlO OAB UK Jack Walkey Wilfrid Smith Ltd Elm House Medlicote Close Oakley Hay Northants, NN18 9NF UK Paul D Wilkes, BSc, PhD Head of Regulatory Affairs The Body Shop International PLC Watersmead Littlehampton West Sussex BN17 6LS UK Michael J Willcox Technical Director Standard Soap Company Limited Castle Soap Works Derby Road Ashby de Ia Zouch Leicestershire, LE65 2HG UK Preface to the 9th Edition Cosmetic Science has developed greatly since the publication of the 8th edition of this textbook in 1974 Although the first part of this volume still consists of chapters about product preparations in alphabetical order, each product category has been revised and updated by a specialist An outline of the biology, structure and function of skin, hair, teeth and nails and the reasons for the need for cosmetics are given in those dealing with the relevant preparations Throughout, the word Cosmetics includes toiletries and thus all products which protect, cleanse, adorn, and perfume the human body, and combat body odour and perspiration The 'f' spelling for the element 'sulfur' and its derivatives has been used following the recommendations of the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) and the decision taken by the Royal Society of Chemistry (RSC) and the British Standards Institute (BSI) to use T instead of 'ph' in all their publications This stems from the derivation of the use of the T from Latin and its use in England until the 15th century Deionized water has been used in the formulations because many manufacturers standardize the water supply to the factory by removing cations and anions by exchange resin treatment This lessens the variation in ionic content which can occur in the mains water A typical design for a water supply of constant quality in factories, which can be tailored to fit local conditions, was described for the Max Factor Company by N Wheeler and J Kilsheimer in the Water Documentary issue of Cosmetic and Toiletries in 1983 The properties of the water supply and its treatment are also discussed elsewhere, especially in Chapter 15, page 403 and Chapter 21, page 595 In most formulae the quantities for preservatives and perfume are indicated by 'q.s.'- quantum sufficit It would be unwise to be more exact when the actual quantities depend on the results of research on each formulation where differing raw materials, methods and conditions of production will occur In some formulae the main ingredients already add up to 100 and the preservatives and perfume appear as extras - q.s When these two are determined as a result of tests and the two quantities are significant then an equivalent amount can be deducted from the largest ingredient present to maintain the total at 100 These tests at the development stage will be described by the chapters in the second part and give an idea of the research needed to produce a safe, stable and successful product which is acceptable to Governments and Consumers alike This would have been appreciated by Poucher who at the end of the preface to the 6th edition, advised: 'keep the formulations simple' and 'give the experiments long shelf tests, with frequent observations before finally approving a formula' In a previous volume Poucher included a historical sketch This has been retained and brought up to date in the present edition, followed by a chapter of advice on perfuming products, and finally one on the psychology of fragrance My thanks are due to the authors who have spent so much time and trouble in providing their contributions; and to all others who have helped to make this book possible Hilda Butler, Editor 1992 Foreword to the 9th Edition There can be no doubt as to the importance of cosmetics and cosmetic science this edition of Poacher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps is at once powerful evidence of the importance of its subject and of the detailed study of its applications Cosmetics are as old as mankind itself Even in the most primitive societies the use of deodorants and decorative cosmetics was universal, and the same basic objectives remain unchanged today although the means employed to further them are now far more complex and are scientifically based and controlled The importance of the subject fully warrants the increasing attention being paid to it in recent years and this new edition of Poucher illustrates both the advances made to date and direction of further progress Mrs Hilda Butler is to be congratulated on her provision of a volume both practical and fascinating as well as comprehensive and I commend it not just to the practitioners of cosmetic science but to all chemists interested in the practical development of their science Lord Todd OM, FRS Cambridge, 1992 Editor's note: Lord Todd retired as patron of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists in 1996 after giving his support for a number of years and died on January 10th, 1997 Foreword 2000 Having been asked by Hilda Butler to write a forward to this tenth edition of my late father's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, I thought it would be instructive to re-examine my copy of the first edition of this work published in 1923 by Chapman and Hall entitled Perfumes and Cosmetics I was surprised to find that it contained seventeen advertisements, presumably to lower the cost of production, from suppliers of raw materials, machinery and a journal, Perfumery & Essential Oil Record (well known in the industry then and for many years after) Although, in Poucher, the first part, a dictionary of raw materials, contained cosmetic as well as perfume materials (150 pages), the section (part 3) on cosmetics products with descriptions and formulae occupied 120 pages, while in the middle section 160 were devoted to monographs on essential oils, methods of extracting them and formulae for fragrances using them A review in the Chemist and Druggist stated: The book is a good one The matter is sound and practical, the get-up and illustrations are excellent, and it is quite free from gross errors, a thing that can hardly be said of nearly every book on perfumery that has appeared in late years We cordially recommend it to all interested in practical perfumery.' One of my late father's aims was to make cosmetics less costly so that they would be available to women in all walks of life, whereas at the time they were on the whole too expensive for all but the wealthier members in society It might surprise present readers that he was the author of another book on Cosmetics, titled Eve's Beauty Secrets, published in 1926 by Chapman and Hall, in which he explains in non-technical language what cosmetic products are suitable for various skin types and how and when women should use them to enhance their appearance In a review that appeared in the American Perfumer I find the following extract very revealing: 'Copies of this little book should be in the hands of those who at present are seeking to restrict and hamper the toilet preparations industry by the passage of state legislation A copy on file in the New York Department of Health for the use of certain officials in their leisure moments would much to keep them out of mischief I spent nearly forty years in the industry and, though not a perfumer myself, was taught by perfumers to identify the odour of essential oils and other raw materials Neither am I a cosmetic chemist, and therefore the technicalities of this branch of science is a closed book to me However I realise that the number of new raw materials coming on to the market and the global expansion of the industry has given rise, of necessity, to the increasing complexity of today's regulations on safety, quality etc., which means that it is imperative for the information in this treatise to be as up-to date as possible, and undoubtedly Mrs Butler has seen that it has been revised to meet this challenge I commend this new edition to all cosmetic chemists and others who are interested in the art and science of cosmetics John Poucher Cockermouth, Cumbria January, 2000 799 Index terms Links Pigments (Continued) inorganic 154 lip products 209 mascaras 201 organic 153 pearlescent 156 speciality 156 treated 161 Pilot batch stability testing 706 Pipettes 509 Piroctone olamine 301 Plant extracts, skin-care products 432 Plaque 222 Plasticizers, nail enamel 333 Point indentation 566 Poison centre notification 638 Polymeric emulsifier systems 616 Polyquaterniums 297 Pomades 282 Post-cleansing products, skin 427 Post-foaming gels 353 Post-shampoo hair-care products 272 172 186 172 305 364 240 249 595 367 Poucher, W A career first edition of book interests quotations 10 10 10 second to ninth editions of book This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 800 Index terms Links Poucher, W A (Continued) tenth edition of book Powder after-shave 360 bath 115 129 face 49 178 talcum 144 Pre-electric shave lotion 356 Premium shampoos 304 Preservation, face powders 173 Preservatives agents 662 bubble bath 108 efficacy testing 664 lip products 210 shampoos 296 Pressed powder eye shadow 193 Pressing machines 181 710 195 Pressurized dispensers components 378 definition 377 formulations 385 history 51 53 377 636 650 681 690 manufacture 383 market 378 materials 390 product development 384 safety 385 Principal Display Panel Product Information Package (PIP) 627 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 651 801 Index terms Links Production batch stability testing 706 Profile method, evaluation 575 Propellants 379 Protective products, skin 446 Proteins 261 Psycho-group, fragrances 751 300 Psychology of fragrance aromatherapy 754 developments 764 historical aspects 750 motivation for use/choice 755 psychological benefits 757 Psychometric evaluation, hair-care products Pump antiperspirants Pyrophosphate determination 762 272 88 549 Q ‘Qualified Person’ 637 Quality assurance 518 Quality control eye shadow 194 face powder 187 Quantitative analysis Quantum sufficit 515 67 Quasi-drugs 640 Questionnaires 559 Quick-breaking after-shave foam 358 695 R Racial skin types 403 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 802 Index terms Links Radiation infrared 516 ultraviolet 468 visible 516 516 570 641 Ranking method, evaluation 578 Raw materials, perfumes 745 Registration legislation 629 636 advertising 631 638 analytical methods 518 Regulations antiperspirants and deodorants 73 colours 66 historical aspects 59 151 see also Legislation and safety regulations Removers cuticle 327 nail enamel 338 Resin, nail enamel 330 Resolution, chromatography 514 Restorers, hair colour 372 Restricted materials 630 Retinoids 435 ‘Reversed phase’ liquid chromatography 535 332 643 536 Rheology emulsions 622 nail polish 335 sunscreens 488 Rinse-off emulsions 419 Risk assessment 519 Roll-on antiperspirants 498 692 85 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 688 803 Index terms Roman cosmetics Ross-Miles foaming apparatus Rouges (blushers) Links 24 115 292 45 189 S Safety aerosols 385 evaluation 689 hazard determination 686 monitoring human usage 694 perfumes 734 pressurized dispensers 385 risk assessment 692 Safety Assurance 745 Safety regulations see Legislation and safety regulations Safety substantiation 630 Safety-in-use, perfumes 734 Safety-monitoring period 643 Salicylates, sunscreen 482 644 Sampling analysis 519 bulk 519 microbial control 675 Saponiflcation value determination 536 Sarcosinates 105 Scanning electron microscopy 563 Screening tests, analysis 520 Sebaceous glands 408 Seborrhoea 363 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 804 Index terms Sebum Links 290 301 345 408 691 731 739 574 Sedimentation 605 Semipermanent hair colourants 310 Sensitivity, toothpastes 245 Sensitization 687 Sensory receptors, skin 400 Separative methods 510 Sequestering agents 108 Serial dilution 657 Sericite 185 Set, hair 269 Sexual attraction, perfume 755 764 Shampoos action on hair 290 additives 296 antidandruff 301 classification 290 conditioning 365 detergents 294 early 576 foaming 292 formulations 303 fragrance 759 ingredients 293 preparation 302 requirements 289 Shaving products 365 evaluation Shaving 304 51 348 350 460 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 805 Index terms Links Shelf-life 697 ‘Shitei Seibun’ ingredients 641 ‘Shonin’ applications 642 711 722 468 470 Shower products and body shampoos formulations 132 ingredients 131 Silica, dental hygiene 225 Silicone copolyol emulsifiers 616 Silicone surfactants 299 Silicones 414 Size exclusion chromatography 513 Skin biology 393 cancer 56 care 405 classification 406 473 damage 402 472 dry 407 427 561 electrical properties 567 function 394 irritation 686 692 738 male/female differences 345 mechanical properties 564 morphology 561 oily 408 permeability 402 sensitization 687 691 stinging 75 688 structure 394 UV interaction 470 417 739 see also Skin preparations This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 572 806 Index terms Links Skin preparations additives 435 cleansing products 411 post-cleansing products 427 toners 423 Skin-care products, evaluation 561 Soap bars 457 chemistry 453 detergent/combination bars 464 drawbacks 411 historical aspects 26 453 36 liquid soaps and handwashes 416 464 manufacture 454 perfume and additives 459 related products 460 454 461 Sodium bicarbonate 125 Sodium borate 126 Sodium carbonate 125 Sodium chloride 126 Sodium cocoyl isethionate 131 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 103 106 Sodium lauryl sulfate 103 227 Sodium monofluorophosphate 234 Sodium phosphate 125 Sodium sesquicarbonate 125 Soft solid antiperspirants 93 Softness, skin Solid antiperspirants 43 759 226 128 108 566 82 48 93 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 131 807 Index terms Links Soluble bath oils 122 Soluble/insoluble component separation 546 Solvent extraction 528 Solvents HPLC 534 nail enamel 331 Sorbitol determination 547 Sparkles, toothpaste 231 Speciality pigments 156 Spectrophotometric methods 515 Spherical powders 185 Spot tests 521 Spreading bath oils 117 Squeeze spray antiperspirants 81 Stability testing acceleration of changes 701 controls 708 examination schedules 709 planning 707 recording results 711 specific objectives 700 test conditions 702 test samples 705 711 Stabilization emulsions 606 foams 106 Staining, antiperspirants 95 Starches 170 Stereotypes 750 Sterile disposable consumables 658 683 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 808 Index terms Sterilization Stick antiperspirants Links 657 672 82 Sticks eye shadow 198 sunscreen 493 Stinging 75 688 Stokes’ Law, emulsion theory 605 Straightening, hair 270 284 Stratum corneum 398 402 Structure-activity relationships 690 Styling products, hair 278 Substantiation 630 Sulfates 103 Sulfonates 105 Sulfosuccinates 104 Sulfur 363 Sulphosuccinates 294 739 644 Sulphur see Sulfur Sumerian cosmetics 19 Sun damage, skin 468 Sun protection factors (SPFs) 474 570 56 470 Sunburn 472 Sunscreens choice of product 473 evaluation 570 formulations 491 historical aspects 55 ingredients 480 market 490 requirements 480 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 809 Index terms Links Sunscreens (Continued) sun-induced skin damage 468 testing 474 Suntan 55 489 467 472 473 185 193 472 473 Surfactants bath oils and essences 116 bubble bath 102 dental hygiene 227 dry skin 407 emulsion theory 603 shampoos 297 Surfometry Sweat glands 108 563 71 400 Sweating 590 593 Sweetening agents 229 Syndet bars 412 Synthetic detergent-based cleansers (syndets) 411 Systemic hazards 688 693 toxicity of perfumes 734 Tactile property description 401 Talc 144 661 168 Talcum powder 144 168 Tallow, soap 455 Tanning 55 489 T 467 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 810 Index terms Links Tartar 223 238 Teeth 48 219 Temperature stability testing 701 702 Temporary hair colourants 310 Temporary sets, hair 270 Test marketing 733 248 see also Dental hygiene 712 Testing see Animal testing; Efficacy testing Theatrical make-up Thermography 34 594 Thickeners bubble bath 106 dyeing systems 320 shampoos 296 Thin-layer chromatography 511 Thioglycollate hair straighteners 285 Thioglycollic acid determination 543 Thixotropy 622 Thran Spray Gun 586 Three-phase complex emulsions 602 617 Titanium dioxide inorganic pigments 155 pearlescent pigments 158 160 sunscreen 483 490 ‘Todokede’ applications 642 Toners organic pigments 153 skin 411 Tonics, hair 360 Tooth decay 221 423 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 811 Index terms Links Tooth enamel 219 Tooth powders 224 Toothpaste analysis 546 formulation 231 ingredients 225 manufacture 232 requirements 223 Topical hazards 686 Topical toxicity 737 Total viability counts (TVCs) 676 Towelettes, cleansing 416 Toxicity evaluation 689 Toxicological test data 690 Trade secrets 746 Transepidermal water loss 568 Translucent soaps 461 Transparent soaps 462 Treated pigments 161 Triangulation 515 Triclosan 240 True organic pigments 154 Two-phase emulsion formation 602 Two-way foundation make-up 184 Type cultures 656 234 692 734 172 250 388 664 U Ultraviolet absorption, nail enamel 335 Ultraviolet protection, lip products 211 Ultraviolet radiation, skin 468 570 688 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 662 812 Index terms Ultraviolet spectrophotometry Links 516 Underarm products active ingredients 72 product forms 76 staining 95 78 96 see also Antiperspirants, Deodorants Unguents Unisex fragrances United States legislation 22 25 752 753 73 626 Unsaponifiable matter determination 539 Urticarial response 688 UVA/UVB protection ratio 571 V Valves, pressurized dispensers 381 Velvet replipad technique 585 Ve-Tra-Co powder press 181 Viruses 653 Viscosity 106 Visible spectrophotometry 516 Visual examination of material 520 Vitamins 435 489 76 93 Volatile organic compounds Volatile/non-volatile matter determination 521 Volumetric analysis 508 196 131 622 W Walnut flour 171 Water loss through skin 568 590 594 This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation 813 Index terms Links Water (Continued) microbial contamination routine testing 66 672 675 Water content determination 521 hair 268 Water-based nail enamel 335 Water-in-oil emulsions 602 Water-in-silicone foundation make-up 176 Water-soluble polyquaterniums 297 Waterproof mascara 202 Waterproofing agents, sunscreens 486 497 Waving, hair 270 282 Wax-based blushers 190 Waxes, lip products 207 Whitening, toothpaste 242 Wigs 18 605 661 36 39 760 764 580 655 656 Zinc oxide 169 483 490 Zinc pyridine thiol-N-oxide 365 Zinc pyrithione 301 305 581 Wipes, cleansing 416 Women’s fragrances, psychology 751 Wrinkles, use of pigments 161 Y Yeasts Z This page has been reformatted by Knovel to provide easier navigation ... Netherlands Publisher's Note: This edition of Poacher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps is the tenth edition of what was formerly Volume of the ninth edition of Poacher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps. .. to the importance of cosmetics and cosmetic science this edition of Poacher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps is at once powerful evidence of the importance of its subject and of the detailed study... Introduction 1923: First Edition: Perfumes and Cosmetics Tenth Edition: Poucher's Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps W.A Poucher's Other Careers 10 Cosmetics Through the Ages 13 2.1