Earth Science, 13e (Tarbuck) Chapter 15 The Dynamic Ocean 1) The height, length, and period of a wave depend upon A) the length of time the wind has blown B) the wind speed C) the fetch D) all of these Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Remembering 2) Which of the following is correct regarding a wave in the open ocean? A) Water particles move in an almost circular path B) Such waves are called waves of oscillation C) Waves not exist in the open ocean – only near the coast D) None of these Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Remembering 3) Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is A) equal to its wave base B) equal to the wavelength C) twice as great as the wavelength D) three times as great as the wavelength Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Remembering 4) When waves reach shallow water, they are often bent and tend to become parallel to the shore This process is termed A) oscillation B) refraction C) translation D) reflection Answer: B Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 5) The movement of water within the surf zone that parallels the shore is termed A) tidal current B) salinity current C) beach drift D) longshore current Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Remembering 6) The presence of which one of the following would indicate that the land had been uplifted or that sea level had fallen? A) an estuary B) a sea stack C) elevated marine terrace D) a tombolo Answer: C Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 7) Which one of the following is a landform created by wave erosion? A) spit B) estuary C) tombolo D) sea arch Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 8) Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are A) associated with a submergent coast B) former river valleys that were flooded by a rise in sea level C) excellent examples of large estuaries D) all of the above Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.10 Coastal Classification Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 9) The movement of sand parallel to the shore A) is created by waves approaching at an oblique angle B) may create spits C) is achieved by longshore currents D) all of the above Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach and 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 10) One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated A) on headlands projecting into the water B) in the recessed areas between headlands C) in estuaries D) none of the above Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Remembering 11) The zigzag movement of sand grains along a beach is A) caused by obliquely breaking waves B) called beach drift C) very unusual and seldom occurs D) both caused by obliquely breaking waves and called beach drift Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Remembering 12) A sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from the open ocean is a A) sea stack B) tombolo C) coastal barrier D) none of these Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 13) A ridge of sand projecting into a bay and often having a hooked end is a A) spit B) jetty C) groin D) sea stack Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 14) An isolated remnant of wave erosion is a A) spit B) jetty C) groin D) sea stack Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 15) A sand ridge connecting an island to the mainland or to another island is a A) jetty B) tombolo C) breakwater D) sea stack Answer: B Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 16) A flat, bench-like surface cut in rock along a coast is a A) sea stack B) tombolo C) wave-cut platform D) spit Answer: C Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 17) Fetch is A) a method of shoreline erosion control B) the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level C) the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes D) none of these Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Remembering 18) Which one of the following structures is built to protect boats from large breaking waves? A) jetty B) groin C) breakwater D) seawall Answer: C Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Remembering 19) Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion? A) groin B) beach nourishment C) seawall D) all of these Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Remembering 20) Which of the following is a tidal current? A) spring tide B) flood tide C) ebb tide D) both flood and ebb tide Answer: D Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 21) The energy that drives surface ocean currents such as the Gulf Stream comes from A) salinity variations B) Coriolis effect C) prevailing winds D) density differences Answer: C Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Remembering 22) A poleward-moving ocean current is A) warm B) cold C) warm only in the Northern Hemisphere D) warm only in the Southern Hemisphere Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation Bloom's: Remembering 23) Because of the Coriolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the of their path of motion in the Northern Hemisphere A) right B) left C) west D) east Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Remembering 24) Because of the Coriolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the of their path of motion in the Southern Hemisphere A) right B) left C) west D) east Answer: B Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 25) The daily tidal range is GREATEST during tide A) spring B) ebb C) neap D) none of these Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Remembering 26) The daily tidal range is LEAST during tide A) spring B) ebb C) neap D) none of these Answer: C Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Remembering 27) Fetch refers to A) the beachfront area where rapid erosion is taking place B) a large expanse of open water over which the wind blows and generates waves C) the rotational movements of water particles beneath a passing surface wave D) ocean currents moving parallel to the beach Answer: B Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Remembering 28) Erosional retreat of a leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction A) wave-cut tombolo B) wave-cut cliff C) wave-cut barrier beach D) offshore, wave-cut, breakwater bar Answer: B Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 29) Large estuaries are more common on a(n) coastline A) submergent B) emergent C) stable D) retreating Answer: A Diff: Topic: 15.10 Coastal Classification Bloom's: Remembering Give the tide type for each description neap tides spring tides 30) Sun, Moon, and Earth form a right triangle in space Answer: neap tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding 31) lowest high tides and highest low tides of the month Answer: neap tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding 32) highest high tides and lowest low tides of the month Answer: spring tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding 33) Sun, Moon, and Earth lie on a straight line in space Answer: spring tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc Word Analysis Examine the words and/or phrases for each question below and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases Choose the option which does not fit the pattern 34) wave height wave period Answer: wave refraction Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Analyzing wave refraction 35) wave-cut cliff wave-cut platform Answer: spit Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Analyzing 36) sea stack bar tombolo Answer: sea stack Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Analyzing sea arch spit barrier island 37) breakwater groin seawall Answer: beach nourishment Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Analyzing 38) spring tide flood tide Answer: tidal flat Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Analyzing fetch beach nourishment neap tide tidal flat 39) The horizontal distance separating successive wave crests is called the wave period Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Analyzing 40) Tidal flats are submerged during ebb tide Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Analyzing Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 41) The turbulent water created by breaking waves is called surf Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Analyzing 42) A baymouth bar is a manmade feature designed to control wave erosion Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Analyzing 43) Although the Sun influences the tides, its effect is considerably less than the effect of the Moon Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Analyzing 44) The energy that creates surface ocean currents comes from prevailing winds Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Analyzing 45) Waves in the open ocean are called waves of oscillation Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Analyzing 46) Elevated wave-cut platforms in Southern California are evidence that this coastal area is emergent Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.10 Coastal Classification Bloom's: Analyzing 47) The Gulf Coast lacks barrier islands Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.9 Erosion Problems Along U.S Coasts Bloom's: Analyzing 10 Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 48) Groins are constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Analyzing 49) The largest daily tidal range occurs in association with spring tides Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Analyzing 50) Neap tides occur about the time of the first quarter and third quarter phases of the Moon Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Analyzing 51) As the tide rises, water flows in toward the shore as the ebb tide Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Analyzing 52) A poleward-moving ocean current is considered a warm current Answer: TRUE Diff: Topic: 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation Bloom's: Analyzing 53) The Coriolis effect causes ocean currents in the Southern Hemisphere to be deflected to the right of their path of motion Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Analyzing 54) Surface ocean circulation is also called thermohaline circulation Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean and 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation Bloom's: Analyzing 11 Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 55) Longshore sand transport and longshore currents depend on waves impinging parallel to a shoreline Answer: FALSE Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Analyzing 56) Large circular-moving currents of water within an ocean basin are called Answer: gyres Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Remembering 57) As a deep-water wave enters shallow water, the wave slows down and rotates toward being parallel with the shoreline This process is known as Answer: refraction Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Remembering 58) Currents within the surf zone that flow parallel to the shore are known as currents Answer: longshore Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Remembering 59) A ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or to another island is a(n) Answer: tombolo Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 60) Low and narrow offshore, emergent ridges of sand that parallel the coast are called Answer: barrier islands Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 61) Structures called are built parallel to the shoreline to protect boats from the force of large breaking waves Answer: breakwaters Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Remembering 12 Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 62) A barrier built at a right angle to the beach for the purpose of trapping sand that is moving parallel to the shore is called a(n) Answer: groin Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Remembering 63) When caves on opposite sides of a headland unite, a(n) results Answer: sea arch Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 64) What term denotes a sand bar built across the former mouth of an estuary, separating it from the open sea? Answer: baymouth bar Diff: Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features Bloom's: Remembering 65) The rising of cold water from deeper layers to replace warmer surface water is called Answer: upwelling Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Remembering 66) Because deep ocean circulation is driven largely by variations in water temperature and salinity, it is also called circulation Answer: thermohaline Diff: Topic: 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation Bloom's: Remembering 67) The low-lying zones that are alternately covered by water during flood tide and exposed following ebb tide are called Answer: tidal flats Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Remembering 68) The effect causes ocean currents to be deflected to the right of their path of motion in the Northern Hemisphere Answer: Coriolis Diff: Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean Bloom's: Remembering 13 Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc Critical Thinking and Discussion Use complete sentences, correct spelling, and the information presented in Chapter 15 to answer the questions below 69) Shorelines are temporary geologic and topographic features Explain this statement Answer: Shorelines are temporary geologic and topographic features because wave energy is constantly acting upon them to move and transport sand, which affects their topographic and geologic features For example, if you stand ankle deep in water on the shoreline, you will notice that your feet become buried to sand movement caused by wave action Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Understanding 70) Briefly discuss the movement of sand on a beach environment Include those factors, both natural and human-induced, that affect sand movement Answer: Energy from breaking waves often causes large quantities of sand to move along the beach face and in the surf zone roughly parallel to the shore Wave energy also causes sand to move perpendicular to the shore in a zig zag pattern that follows the longshore current Sand movement is determined by natural wave energy and can be affected by human-induced stabilization factors such as construction of breakwaters, seawalls, and groins Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach and 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Understanding 71) A variety of techniques and efforts are used to stabilize shorelines throughout the world Are all of these efforts only temporary measures or are any of them permanent? Also, does urbanization and development of coastal areas always contribute to shoreline erosion? Explain Answer: Most techniques used to stabilize shorelines such as constructing breakwaters, building groins, or beach nourishment efforts are temporary One permanent technique is relocation, which is allowing nature to reclaim beaches that have been storm-damaged or have at-risk buildings on them rather than building hard stabilization techniques Even though it often causes shoreline erosion, urbanization and development of coastal areas has actually contributed to the efforts made to protect property from storm waves by stabilizing the shore As the number and value of buildings along the shores have increased, so have these efforts to stabilize the shore Diff: Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore Bloom's: Understanding 14 Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc 72) Label the basic parts of a wave on the diagram below Answer: See Figure 15.12 in of Earth Science, 13e Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Applying 73) What type of current is illustrated in the diagram below? Answer: longshore current Diff: Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach Bloom's: Applying 15 Copyright © 2012 Pearson Education, Inc  ... Inc 72) Label the basic parts of a wave on the diagram below Answer: See Figure 15.12 in of Earth Science, 13e Diff: Topic: 15.4 Waves Bloom's: Applying 73) What type of current is illustrated... Remembering Give the tide type for each description neap tides spring tides 30) Sun, Moon, and Earth form a right triangle in space Answer: neap tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding... the month Answer: spring tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding 33) Sun, Moon, and Earth lie on a straight line in space Answer: spring tides Diff: Topic: 15.11 Tides Bloom's: Understanding