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London DIRECTIONS WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Rob Humphreys NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com Tips for reading this e-book Your e-book Reader has many options for viewing and navigating through an e-book Explore the dropdown menus and toolbar at the top and the status bar at the bottom of the display window to familiarize yourself with these The following guidelines are provided to assist users who are not familiar with PDF files For a complete user guide, see the Help menu of your Reader • You can read the pages in this e-book one at a time, or as two pages facing each other, as in a regular book To select how you’d like to view the pages, click on the View menu on the top panel and choose the Single Page, Continuous, Facing or Continuous – Facing option • You can scroll through the pages or use the arrows at the top or bottom of the display window to turn pages You can also type a page number into the status bar at the bottom and be taken directly there Or else use the 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check out Adobe’s frequently asked questions for e-book users by clicking here Contents Ideas The big six sights 10 What to eat 12 London outdoors 14 Gay and lesbian London 16 London pubs 18 Art galleries 20 Royal London 22 Gourmet London 24 Museums 26 Churches 28 Diverse London 30 Kids’ London 32 Indulgent London 34 Club-bars 36 Victorian London 38 Dead London 40 Riverside London 42 Free London 44 London from up high 46 Festivals and events 48 Queasy London 50 London on stage 52 Musical London 54 Contemporary architecture 56 Tudor and Stuart London 58 Literary and artistic London 60 Afternoon tea 62 Places 65 Trafalgar Square and Whitehall 67 Westminster 73 St James’s 79 Piccadilly and Mayfair 85 Marylebone 91 Soho 95 Bloomsbury 101 Covent Garden 106 Holborn 113 Clerkenwell 117 The City 122 Hoxton and Spitalfields 128 The Tower and Docklands 134 South Bank and around 140 Bankside and Southwark 146 Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens 153 South Kensington, Knightsbridge and Chelsea 158 High Street Kensington to Notting Hill 164 Regent’s Park and Camden 169 Hampstead and Highgate 174 Greenwich 180 Kew and Richmond 186 Hampton Court 192 Accommodation 195 Hotels, B&Bs and hostels 197 Essentials 207 Arrival 209 Information 210 City transport 210 Entertainment 212 Festivals and Events 214 Directory 216 Index 219 Colour Maps Central London The West End Underground Seeing the sights by Bus – Useful Routes CONTENTS Introduction INTRODUCTION Introduction to London London is a very big city In fact, it’s Europe’s largest capital by far, stretching for more than thirty miles on either side of the River Thames, and with a population of just under eight million Ethnically and linguistically, it’s also Europe’s most diverse metropolis, offering cultural and culinary delights from right across the globe And after sixteen years of being the only major city in the world not to have its own governing body, London finally has an elected assembly and a mayor who’s busy tackling longstanding problems such as public transport With no single predominant focus of interest, the city can seem bewilderingly amorphous to newcomers.The key to enjoying London is not to try and everything in a When to visit Despite the temperateness of the English climate, it’s impossible to say with any degree of certainty that the weather will be pleasant in any given month With average daily temperatures of around 22°C, English summers rarely get unbearably hot, while the winters (average daily temperature 6–10°C) don’t get very cold – though they’re often wet However, whenever you come, be prepared for all eventualities; in 2003, summer temperatures hit almost 40°C As far as crowds go, tourists stream into London pretty much all year round, with peak season from Easter to October, and the biggest crush in July and August, when you’ll need to book your accommodation well in advance Contents Introduction INTRODUCTION ĭ Piccadilly Circus Brick Lane Contents London Eye, the city can now boast the world’s largest modern art gallery and Ferris wheel, as well as the Millennium Bridge, the first new Thames crossing for over a hundred years Monuments from the capital’s glorious past are everywhere, from medieval banqueting halls and the İ “Banglatown”, single visit – concentrate on one or two areas and you’ll get a lot more out of the place London has always been an enthralling city, and the capital’s traditional sights – Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and the Tower of London – continue to draw in millions of tourists every year.Things change fast, though, and the mushrooming crop of new attractions ensure that there’s plenty to even for those who’ve visited before Since the millennium, virtually all of London’s world-class museums, galleries and institutions have been reinvented, from the Royal Opera House to the British Museum.With the Tate Modern and the Introduction Square great churches of Christopher Wren to the eclectic Victorian architecture of the triumphalist British Empire.There’s also much enjoyment to be had from the city’s quiet Georgian squares, the narrow alleyways of the City of London, the riverside walks, and the assorted quirks of what is still identifiably a collection of villages And London is offset by surprisingly large expanses of greenery, with several large public parks right in the centre as well as wilder spaces on the outskirts You could spend days just shopping in London, too, mixing with the upper classes in the “tiara triangle” around Harrods, or sampling the offbeat weekend markets of ĭ Berkeley INTRODUCTION Portobello Road, Camden and Greenwich The music, clubbing and gay/lesbian scenes are second to none, and mainstream arts are no less exciting, with regular opportunities to catch first-rate theatre companies, dance troupes, exhibitions and opera The city’s pubs have always had heaps of atmosphere, but its restaurants are now an attraction too, with everything from three-star Michelin establishments to low-cost, high-quality Chinese restaurants and Indian curry houses ĭ Sunset over the the Thames Contents Introduction LONDON AT A GLANCE INTRODUCTION Soho The headquarters of hedonistic London, Soho is the heart of the West End entertainment district, with the city’s largest concentration of theatres, cinemas, clubs, bars, cafés and restaurants Sark, Greenwich by night ĭ Cutty İ Soho Greenwich Well worth the boat or train journey from central London, Greenwich makes the most of its riverside setting, with heaps of maritime sights, a royal park, a bustling weekend market and the famous Greenwich Meridian Bankside and Southwark Covent Garden With its big covered market hall, cobbled piazza and fantastic range of shops, traffic-becalmed Covent Garden is justifiably many visitors’ favourite slice of central London The traffic-free riverside path takes you past the Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and several more sights in neighbouring Southwark, while dishing out great views over the water to St Paul’s Cathedral İ Covent Garden Piazza Contents Introduction INTRODUCTION İ Natural History Museum South Kensington A fashionably smart part of London in its own right, South Kensington is also home to the city’s most impressive trio of free museums: the Natural History, Science, and Victoria & Albert Hampstead Although buzzing with cosmopolitan life, Hampstead has managed to retain a more village-like feel than any other London suburb and boasts the wild open space of the Heath as well as a clutch of intriguing small museums Westminster Introduction Heath Contents ĭ Hampstead Home to the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and the striking Abbey and Cathedral, Westminster easily justifies its status as one of London’s busiest tourist honeypots UE EN AV O A D OIR RO AD DE B E A UV RO AD GAT E R D N A L S G N I K AD RO EY KN T C H H I G H ST ROAD AIN S H OR CURT S T REE T UL S T PA ED I STREET P I T F I EL D E AST R OAD TE GA PS HO G AT E MOOR E U 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Imperial War Museum AD D CK RO N RO NE BLA ELEPHANT & CASTLE L O H E LA H BET 'S ROAD H RO S M LA AD BOROUG S M RO E R B R I D G E RO A D ST GE OR GE G OU P WA LIVERPOOL STREET T ST STREET TH OR LW WA AL VAUXHALL NDS R P Re NS DE N PSIDE AR M PT B R O CHEA H VA UX H WA AD RO A CI P L EA IN R O A D D FINSBURY CIRCUS W A L Bank of England ST PAUL'S St Paul's Cathedral D TM E A AC O A L O N D ON ER C Spitalfields Liverpool St Station MOORGATE GR LAMBETH E S NORTH R W NN I N G T O N K E EL BB E R O O OW LO R ST ST H I LL R R AD U T H L A M BE E TE RO SO RD AD RT BR ALBE KR IN A GE PIMLICO N W ID Tate Britain D ROA GR OR O S V E N TOWN RO ERT ALB GE BRID E EA RS TTE E BA RIDG B E HA WOR S HI P ST FINSBURY SQ LL S T ST RE OA D Chapel AD CITY RO LAN E E IV E T REE S ST LUPU QUEENS ET OV CH H O X T O N ST R E E T T ST PROVOS BUN DE N ER AD RO ST G OL C HISW E Barbican Centre LOO TER E WA RIDG B BR D LAMBETH BR STREET LL County Hall Houses of Parliament MARSHAM REGENCY ST A HA L R O UX T EHAL S 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Queen’s Chapel St James’s Palace YM ME ST JAMES ’ S ST NG CE PLA ’S A M ES HA ET i SQ KI ET RE KE JA ST DU ST RE NT YN T KS YOR OF KE DU RM St James’s ST S Y UR D AR RR GE EET GE ST JE Y L R T R Y ST COV E N FT L LY ET LEICESTER SQUARE RE LE ST VIL OW ALL SW CK D A C ST T ER EW BR G L A S S H O US E ST RE ET I L RT EE PE W LO N ST H JO R ST RU RE A SH MI E TR AY M MONMOUTH RO ST ON T MP ST EET DM D CO O LB NEAL'S YARD S T’ OR SH SEVEN T DIALS S TR EE ST N AM TO EA R LH EL H S CAMBRIDGE CIRCUS C EY STR ON UA EET TH HM OL UP ES S M JA SQ H W GILE S H I G H ST STA STR FRI RIC T O N G R I C H A ET EEK RE EE ST CK S HO H HIG St Giles-inthe-Fields ST ETTE MAN GR ST S RE Y GS RY AN ET TR R S RE EET SA E BU E OU ST T LS MIL IND ST TW EA ICK ST GR RW S BE IN PK ST HO OD ET T RE WO YS ST ER NE N SH LT E TO U E WER ST TP IN G A E A N LO MES LEX GR EL JA IDL BR R ER PE T WI TON SUT A QU ST ROW UR KIN MS D OO OA AC HO DE RD ICK ET R T EE PICCADILLY CIRCUS I C P ST E BL TR O SB PL UR PL RW WA BE RE D OA BL M OO STREE RD X FO ET ST ST PER ST UP HN CK WI JO AR ST ET R CO St George’s RO W M RE T LL S RE AN D ET ND RE DE CA AR BO T ES T HA NE NEW HYDE PARK CORNER SE RU S E AT ET N TO MP HA UT SO EN BO ET ST POL RE D RL S TT GR N PTO HAM SOUT TO TH RE T L ST NOE EN LD GO ST VIGO ON GT RLIN BU OL ST N RK N ILT O Green Park BLOOMSBURY SQUARE British Museum TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD SO BR ST ST ST ON RK ET Spencer House Y RA ST S Y ET GT CO RE ON ST LL AN ER STR AB RE ST K EA IN ST N DI WM RN ALL RN RL MA R TT ST OO W PA HAM PI A CC BEDFORD SQUARE NE BE EE RSH CA BU BE VE RA ON M ST K ST ET E E T S T R Royal Academy ST ST LT LF GREEN PARK RE St Anne’s W ET RE ST W D G T MA B GS Ritz Hotel ET STRE B R IC EE STR STLE ET Fortnum & Mason S SHEPHERD MARKET DO LANE D GE RK RD HA PA FO AR ET CL ET M A RK BO T EN S E Y STR O N R Z C U M EW S IN N TO EY S RL EL LE RK R R T EE QUE D LE H AU A ST BE S CH RT BU AL DO Y’ S E STR T RO OL T EY T EW O S NT GE RE LE E M A Y F A I R EL ET M BOR Y VI ET E RE R 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