MỤC LỤC UNIT INTRODUCTION ABOUT GARMENT PRODUCTION ORDER 1.1 GARMENT PRODUCTION 1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION 1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION 1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: SHIRT .10 2.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION 10 2.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION 15 2.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION 15 Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: PANTS 16 3.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR PANTS PRODUCTION 16 3.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR PANTS PRODUCTION 17 3.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR PANTS PRODUCTION 19 Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: JEANS 20 4.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR JEANS PRODUCTION 20 4.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR JEANS PRODUCTION 22 4.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR JEANS PRODUCTION 23 REVISION A .24 Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: JACKET 25 5.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 25 5.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 31 5.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 31 Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: SKIRT .32 6.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 32 6.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 32 6.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 35 Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: KNITTED WEAR 36 7.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION 36 7.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION 37 7.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION 39 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit INTRODUCTION ABOUT GARMENT PRODUCTION ORDER 1.1 GARMENT PRODUCTION Garment manufacturing includes number of processes from order receiving to dispatching shipment of the finished garments A process flow chart helps to understand how raw materials are moved from one process to another process until raw materials are transformed into the desired product (garments) To be noted that a process flow chart made for the garment manufacturing processes will vary based on manufacturing facility and product types As some companies whole process in single plant when others production jobs and other auxiliary processes are outsourced Based on present apparel industry, garment manufacturing processes are categorized as: - Pre-Production Processes: includes sampling, sourcing of raw materials, Approvals, PP meeting etc - Production processes: cutting, sewing, finishing etc - Post production processes: thread trimming, pressing, checking, folding and packing, shipment inspection etc Instead of making a single process flow chart, I have made one chart for major processes and two separate charts for cutting room processes and finishing processes for detailed process chart Chart1: Garment manufacturing process flow chart (major processes) PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com 1.2 ORDER FOR GARMENT PRODUCTION Production orders contain all the information you need for the production process, for example quantity, basic date, information about BOM and routing The production orders in AFS contain AFS-specific data (grid values and categories) to meet the requirements of the apparel and footwear industry - Purchase Order/ Sale Order SALE ORDER Style Code Customer Type Style Description Customer PO Gender Order Quantity Programme Code Layer Requested ship date Programme Name Tecnology Season Special Licence Schedule ship date Long Description Total Size Colorway Colorway Code Color PO Size S … Colorway Total Name - Bill of Materials (BOM)or Color card/ color combination COLOR COMBINATION Style number: Style name: Style PO: Style Description: Positon Customer: Program number: Program name: Material Material Material Code Number Name Dimention EST Quantity UOM Supplier CW Name Name Remark CW Code CW PO Color Fabric Thread Accessories …… EST: Estimate UOM: unit of measurement PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Material Consumption MATERIAL CONSUMPTION SHEET Buyer: Ship number: Description: PO number: Order number Factory: Date: Delivery: PO Sheet Color name ……… Total Size Size … Total * Color Combination Section Outshell pocketing Interlining Zipper Zipper Poly Main teeth tape button label Item Standard Color Order Quantity Consumption Quantity ETD Thread Supplier Estimated time of departure: time to delivery products - Trim Card Customer TRIM CARD Style name: Make Program MATERIAL Color COLOR COMBINATION Color Color …… Shell Lining Sewing thread Zipper Main Label Size Label Care Label Hangtag PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Change in Material (Depend on order) DESCRIPTION OF CHANGE IN MATERIAL Style number: Style name: Style PO: Description: Position Customer: Program number: Program name: Material Number Material Code Material Name Size …… Remark: - Technical Document/ Worksheet It includes technical documentation to guide garment manufacturing process such as cutting, sewing, finishing PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: SHIRT 2.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SHIRT PRODUCTION - Parts of shirt : + Front: upper front, under front + Back : Yoke, back + Sleeves: sleeves, sleeve plackets + Collar: upper collar, under collar, upper stand collar, under stand collar + Pocket: pocket, flap pocket + Cuffs: upper cuffs, under cuffs + Placket - Measuring positions Figure 1: Sketch of standard measuring positions for Shirt Table 1: Code Definitions for the Standard Measuring Positions for Shirt A4 Dist.A8 A8 ½ Chest Measure flat, straight across front of garment 1"/2,5 cm down from lowest point of armhole from edge to edge Waist Height Front from HPS Define distance straight down from HPS ½ Waist 10 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Men/Boys A4 ½ Chest Measure flat, straight across front of garment 1"/2,5 cm down from lowest point of armhole from edge to edge Dist.A8 Waist Height Front from HPS Define distance straight down from HPS A8 ½ Waist Define distance straight down from HPS and measure flat, straight across garment from edge to edge A13 Shoulder Length Measure along natural shoulder the distance from HPS to highest point of armhole excluding trims B1 Across Shoulder Measure flat, straight across front from highest point of armhole to highest point of armhole B6 Centre Back Length Measure straight down from centre back neckline point to bottom of garment C9 ½ Sleeve Opening Measure flat, straight across finished edge of sleeve from edge to edge C12 Sleeve Length from Shoulder Measure along folded edge of sleeve from highest point of armhole to bottom of sleeve, including cuff Table 4: Code Definitions for the Standard Measuring Positions for Waistcoat Men/Boys - Front length - Front rise - Centre back - Sleeve Length - Back centre - Back rise length from Shoulder length - Bottom opening - Shoulder slope ½ Sleeve - Chest width - Band width Chest Opening - Waist position - Hem circumference - Centre Back - Bottom width - Leg opening - Across shoulder Length - Shoulder width - Knee placement - Sleeve length - Across Shoulder 26 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - Neck line width - Neck line depth - Sleeve length - Sleeve width - Elbow width - Hood width - Hood height - Inseam - Front pocket opening at waist - Waist at top edge Neck bank length - Center back yoke height - Pocket length - Chest pocket position from CF Chest pkt position from Yk./Sh point • FABRIC AND TRIMS Muscle circumference - Forearm at 7’’ up from sleeve opening cuff length adjustable 1st button - Sleeve placket width - ½ Chest - ½ waist - Waist Height Front from HPS - Shoulder length - Waist Height Front from HPS - Armhole Straight - Neck Width Inside HARD SHELL: Hard shells are waterproof, breathable jackets with laminated membranes built inside the fabric They’re probably what comes to mind when you picture a ski coat, but fabric technology, and how hard shells are built, has changed a lot in recent years Hard shells work well in a range of weather conditions, but they shine when it’s stormy They’re typically more expensive than soft shells SOFT SHELL: Stretchy, breathable soft shells are built using a tightly woven face fabric and a wicking inner fabric They’re wind resistant and highly breathable, but often not waterproof They’re good for skiing in climates like Colorado, where it’s predominantly dry, or if you’re someone who is highly aerobic (or just plain sweaty) Common soft shell materials include Polartec Power Shield® Pro and Schoeller Dryskin CONSTRUCTION: Shells are built using 2-, 2.5-, or 3-layer construction, all of which involve a face fabric, a membrane, and some sort of liner Some brands, like Patagonia or Mountain Hardwear have proprietary fabric like H2No® or DryQ Elite, while others construct their shells out of material made by a fabric company, like eVent or GORE-TEX® 2-LAYER SHELLS: 2-layer shells have a waterproof, breathable membrane bonded to the outer face fabric Inside of that they have a detached, hanging inner liner, often made of mesh, that protects the membrane from oils from your skin, and from wear Even though there are three parts, they’re considered 2-layer, because the lining isn’t bonded to the face fabric They’re typically cheaper than 3-layer shells, but they’re bulkier, less breathable, and heavier, too 2.5-LAYER SHELLS: Your lightest option for a shell, 2.5-layer shells are made of a face fabric, with a bonded membrane, and an inner coating (the later) that helps pro27 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com tect the membrane from abrasion and the oils and gunk from your body That inner layer, which often just looks like a raised pattern on the inside of the jacket, provides a lightweight barrier, but it’s often not as durable as a 3-layer shell 3-LAYER SHELLS: The burliest of the shells, 3-layer jackets consist of a membrane bonded between a face fabric and a liner fabric The liner is sealed to the inside of the membrane, protecting it, and also cutting down on bulk and weight The lining disperses moisture, which is why 3-layer shells tend to feel less clammy, and guards the membrane from anything that might damage its functionality 3-layer shells are usually the most expensive FACE FABRIC: The face fabric, which is usually a variation of tightly woven nylon or polyester, is there to protect the delicate membrane from outside abrasion and weather The face fabric can have a big impact on the weight of the garment MESH: A mesh is similar to fabric or a web in that it has many connected or weaved pieces In clothing, a mesh is often defined as fabric that has a large number of closely spaced holes, such as is common practice for modern sports jerseys MEMBRANE: Membranes are the shell’s pores They diffuse internal moisture, and keep external moisture out The holes in the membrane have to be big enough to let water vapor out, but small enough to prevent liquid water from seeping in They’re typically made of Teflon, or polyurethane, which form a microscopic web with vapor sized holes LINING FABRIC: This is where most of your price and weight variability are going to come from They range from cheap, brushed mesh in a 2-layer shell, to soft, knit polyester backing in the 3-layer shell WATERPROOF/BREATHABILITY: A waterproof, breathable jacket is the holy grail of ski shells, and fabric companies like GORE-Tex and Polartec have invested a lot of time and money making fabric that has both of those properties Waterproofing comes from the membrane in the fabric, and/or from a coating that’s applied to the outside of the fabric, both of which inhibit breathability A fabric’s water resistance is measured in millimeters of water it will hold before it leaks, so a jacket that’s rated 20k waterproof was tested to hold 20,000 mm of water over one square inch of fabric without leaking Breathability, or how much water is evaporated from the inside of the jacket to the outside, is measured by how many grams of water get pulled through the fabric in 24 hours For instance fabrics rated as 20k waterproof, evaporated 20,000 grams Fabrics will be labeled based on their waterproof/breathability ratio, so a jacket that says it’s 20K/20K is waterproof to 20,000mm and breathable at 20,000 grams DWR COATING: Most shells are treated with an external Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating to up their waterproof factor It will wear off with use and washings, but 28 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com you can re-treat you jacket with a DWR product like Nikwax to give it new life INSULATION: Soft shell jackets are rarely insulated, but hard shell jackets sometimes have an added inner layer for insulation That layer will be made of down, synthetic insulation, like Primaloft or fleece Insulation ups the warmth, but increases the weight, and decreases the versatility of a jacket HOOD: there are three main styles of hoods: built in, detachable, and rollaway, which fold up in the collar of your jacket Detachable and rollaway hoods, which give you the option to go hoodless, also add bulk and weight around the neck, and add a potentially leaky seam in an area that gets a lot of exposure POCKETS: What you need to access quickly will define what you should look for in terms of pockets Some shells have media and pass pockets, which are convenient for resort days, but unnecessary for backcountry skiing In a jacket that you’re wearing in the backcountry, look for pockets that you can access with your pack on, and ones that are big enough to stash skins or accessories like goggles and gloves on the fly SEAMS: In a waterproof shell, the seams and zippers have the biggest potential to leak, because they’re essentially a bunch of tiny holes in the fabric There are three ways that seams are made waterproof: they’re sealed, either fully or critically, by sealing waterproof fabric over the edges of the seams Fully taped shells have all of the seams sealed, which critically taped ones only have it on the seams that are most exposed to moisture The third option is welded seams, where instead of being sewn together, the seams are heat bonded Welded seams are lighter and more fully waterproof, but a jacket with welded seams will be more expensive WEIGHT: The weight of the shell depends on the construction, the fabric, and the added details, like Lost weight often comes from the details: welded seams, minimalist zippers, and sewn-in hoods all cut weight, but can make a jacket more expensive BACK LENGTH: Your jacket should be a little longer in back, so it doesn’t gap when you crunch up into an athletic stance The extra length will keep snow and rain out, too Fabric Thickness & Durability The thickness of waterproof, breathable face fabrics vary enormously Fabric thickness is measured as a function of thread weight, or “denier.” Denier is defined as the mass in grams of 9,000 meters of the thread used to weave the fabric, and common weights for outerwear shell fabrics range from around 30 denier (30D) to around 80 denier “Ballistic” weight fabrics used for high abrasion areas like pant cuffs (as well as packs and luggage) range somewhere between 500 and 1,200 denier “70D 100% polyester twill” means a 70 denier polyester fabric with a diagonal woven twill 29 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com pattern is used “N80p GORE-TEX® Pro” stands for an 80 denier polyester face fabric with a plain weave and a GORE-TEX® Pro membrane A jacket made of a good layer waterproof breathable fabric in a 40 denier weight will usually weigh less than a pound, and pack down to the size of a grapefruit, which can be a big advantage when the space in your pack is limited A thicker 80 denier fabric will increase the weight and bulk of a garment, but provide much better resistance to abrasion and cuts Manufacturers will sometimes include the actual fabric weight as well, which is expressed in grams per square meter (g/m²) or ounces per square yard (oz/yd²) A note on waterproof breathable ratings: Waterproof ratings are expressed in millimeters and indicate the height of a column of water that can be suspended over the fabric without leaking Breathability ratings are expressed in grams, and indicate the amount of water vapor that can escape from inside a square meter of the fabric in 24 hours A typical high end fabric may be rated at 28,000 mm / 20,000 g, while a mid-level fabric may be listed as 15,000 mm / 10,000 g A few fabrics are rated in PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) – you can convert PSI to mm using the formula PSI = 704 mm For more information on waterproof breathable ratings, check out our Waterproof Ratings and Breathability Guide Fabric and outerwear manufacturers are often reticent to reveal waterproof breathable numbers, and to be fair, the testing protocols for these specs are very inconsistent Many of the charts available on the web are misleading or simply not accurate, so beware – a good way of researching the merits of a particular fabric is to ask someone you trust who’s used it over a period of time in the climate you frequent For our recommendations on outerwear by region, check out our How to Buy Outerwear for Skiing and Snowboarding by Region Guide Seam Taping and Sewing Welding Tech garments are made up of separate pieces of fabric that are normally sewn together using needle and thread The alternative to sewing is welding, which attaches the pieces using either heat-activated adhesive film or fuses the material using the heat generated by ultrasound Welded seams have the advantage of being lighter and less bulky, as well as creating no holes for water to enter Sewn seams have an advantage in strength, but must be sealed with seam tape to ensure they remain waterproof There are many varieties of seam tape, with the best and thinnest requiring special machinery and very skilled operators (usually the cream of the factory’s crop) It’s common in the outdoor industry to use both methods in the production of a garment – sewn and seam sealed for stress-bearing areas around the arms or legs, for instance, and welded for pockets, zippers and adjustment cord hems On product pages, “fully taped” means that every seam in the garment is sealed, while “critically taped” means that only the most exposed seams are sealed – usually 30 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com the neck, shoulders and front zipper for jackets and side and center seams for pants When it comes to sewing, some manufacturers a better job of it than others Arc’teryx, for instance, prides itself on maintaining a standard of 14-16 stitches per linear inch in its outerwear construction, where the industry standard is 8-10 stitches per inch More stitches per inch means construction is slower and uses more thread, but the end result is a stronger garment with longer lasting seams Quality of the thread used is also a factor The thread in your mom’s sewing machine at home – probably cotton-covered polyester in a #50 weight – won’t hold up well to the UV rays and abrasion your ski or snowboard clothes have to withstand Most quality outerwear is sewn using a 100% polyester thread in a heavier #40 weight 5.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR JACKET PRODUCTION - The workmanship of the bag for fake feather consists on a perimetral stitching with lock stitch seam at about cm from the edge All further junction between the down bag and the shell fabric must be made by using a thread overlock stitching which avoids fabric The fake down must be well distributed without leaving empty spaces - Attention: color combining of accessories, binding applied on hood should be matching color with fabric shell; apply zip on front and pockets, the tape of zip should be visible 0,3cm; apply binding on the hood, distribute well the fabric and puckering; distribute well the padding in a homogeneous in the garment - For anything not mention on sample comments nor technical sheets, sales man sample remains the only reference to be followed in bulk for all workmanship details All orders with printing must submit pass lab test report Use tone to tone thread with main label, for main label stitching Garment should not have any stains, chalk marks, presentation at zipper must be flat - Move the position of elastic at cuff and bottom cm up Please block the hood lining and outshell at points- 1st at 7cm from adge and 2nd at curve Quilting stitches must be straight and without puckering Make sure that zipper on pockets and front are flat and not wavy, they should not make any point at bottom - This garment contains dye, which may rub off and stain materials in which it comes into contact Machine wash cold separately, not bleach, tumble dry low and warm iron Importers must ensure that care labels are attached to products before they sell them in the United States, but care labels don't have to be attached to products when they enter the United States - Collar band stitching should be continued on front neckline Please be careful that it’s assorted pack If there is wrong assort, we have to pay 500$ penalty per each wrong carton 5.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR JACKET PRODUCTION 31 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: SKIRT 6.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped garment that hangs from the waist or hips and covers all or part of the legs The hemline of skirts can vary from micro to floor-length and can vary according to cultural conceptions of modesty and aesthetics as well as the wearer's personal taste, which can be influenced by such factors as fashion and social context Most skirts are self-standing garments, but some skirt-looking panels may be part of another garment such as leggings, shorts, and swimsuits In the western world, skirts are more commonly worn by women; with some exceptions such as the izaar which is worn by Muslim cultures and the kilt which is a traditional men's garment in Scotland and Ireland Some fashion designers, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, have shown men's skirts Other cultures traditionally wear skirts At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of material (such as pareos), but most skirts are fitted to the body at the waist or hips and fuller below, with the fullness introduced by means of darts, gores, pleats, or panels Modern skirts are usually made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted, or poplin Skirts of thin or clingy fabrics are often worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better and for modesty • A-line skirt, a skirt with a slight flare, roughly in the shape of a capital letter A • Bell-shaped skirt, flared noticeably from the waist but then, unlike a church bell, cylindrical for much of its length • Circle skirt, a skirt cut in sections to make one or more circles with a hole for the waist, so the skirt is very full but hangs smoothly from the waist without darts, pleats, or gathers • Full skirt, a skirt with fullness gathered into the waistband • Pleated skirt, a skirt with fullness reduced to fit the waist by means of regular pleats ('plaits') or folds, which can be stitched flat to hip-level or free-hanging • Short skirt, a skirt with hemline above the knee • Straight skirt or Pencil skirt, a tailored skirt hanging straight from the hips and fitted from the waist to the hips by means of darts or a yoke; may have a vent for ease of walking 6.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION Garment Defects Garment defects can be separated into categories: Fabric defects: These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines e.g running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc 32 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Workmanship and handling defects: These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect workmanship Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways of attaching trims, packing etc Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects 1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%) Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers requirements Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements Typical Defects: Fabric defects: Fabric inspection method 2.Workmanship defect: a) Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing, improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc b) Shading Variations within different parts: arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering c) Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc d) Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage e) Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage f) Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not straight It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle deflection or wrong needle g) Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line It appears due to improper trimming or finishing h) Sizing defects (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints, measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section i) Poor ironing- if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment j) misaligned buttons and holes, unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section 33 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: Unmatched color of thread, button and zipper tape, short zippers, faulty zippers, wrong labels, improper size of the labels, printing mistake of labels and cartons, broken poly bag , wrong hanger, improper embroideries and prints etc 34 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com 6.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR SKIRT PRODUCTION 35 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com Unit GARMENT PRODUCT: KNITTED WEAR 7.1 TERMINOLOGIES FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION * Measurement : - Front length - Back centre length - Chest width - Waist position - Bottom width - Shoulder width - Neck line width - Neck line depth - Sleeve length - Sleeve width - Elbow width - Hood width - Hood height - Front rise - Back rise - Bottom opening - Band width - Hem - Leg opening - Knee placement - Inseam - Front pocket opening at waist - Waist at top edge - - Centre back length - Shoulder slope Chest circumference - Across shoulder - Sleeve length Muscle circumference - Forearm at 7’’ up from sleeve opening cuff length adjustable 1st button - Sleeve placket width Neck bank length - Tie space - Center back yoke height - Pocket length - Chest pocket position from CF Chest pkt position from Yk./Sh point - Sleeve Length from Shoulder ½ Sleeve Opening - Centre Back Length - Across Shoulder - ½ Chest - ½ waist - Waist Height Front from HPS - Shoulder length - Waist Height Front from HPS - Armhole Straight - Neck Width Inside - Low Hip Below Waistband - 1/2 Low hip - Low Hip from Top of Waist - ½ Leg Opening - Inseam - ½ Thigh - Back Rise from Top of Waist - Back Rise Below Waistband - Front Rise from Top of Waist Front Rise Below Waistband 36 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com - ½ Low Hip - Materials: NAME COMPOSITION Cotton 100% Cotton CVC T/C 65/35 RC Others Single Jersey Rib Interlock FEATURES COLORS NOTES 55 or 60% COTTON + EX: 45 or 40% POLYESTER - Construction: 108 x 58, 16s x 65% POLYESTER + 12s - Width: 35% COTTON 54/55“ RAMIE/COTTON - Weight: 274 65/35 gr/square 97% Cotton + 3% meter/ oz (gr/ Spandex … square yard) - Finish: yarn Cotton 100% , TC dyed checks; weft stretch, 65/35, plain dyed CVC 60/40 , Polyester , Visco Rayon … Purl 7.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION - When to Label Garments • Domestic manufacturers must attach care labels to finished products before they sell them Labeling Clothing • Labels must be attached so they can be seen or easily found by consumers at the point of sale 37 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com • If labels can't be seen easily because of packaging, additional care information must appear on the outside of the package or on a hang tag attached to the product • Labels must be attached permanently and securely and be legible during the useful life of the product • A garment that consists of two or more parts and is always sold as a unit needs only one care label if the care instructions are the same for all the pieces The label should be attached to the major piece of the suit If the suit pieces require different care instructions or are designed to be sold separately, like coordinates, then each item must have its own care label Labeling Piece Goods Manufacturers and importers must provide care information clearly and conspicuously on the end of each roll or bolt of fabric The information should apply to the fabric on the roll or bolt, not to the items the consumer might add to the fabric, such as trim, lining or buttons The following items don't need permanent care labels, but must have conspicuous temporary labels at the point of sale: • Totally reversible clothing without pockets • Products that may be washed, bleached, dried, ironed, and drycleaned by the harshest procedures available, as long as the instruction, "Wash or dryclean, any normal method," appears on a temporary label • Products that have been granted exemptions on grounds that care labels will harm their appearance or usefulness You must apply for this exemption in writing to the Secretary of the FTC Your request must include a labeled sample of the product and a full statement explaining why the request should be granted The following items don't need care instructions: • Products sold to institutional buyers for commercial use For example, uniforms sold to employers for employee use in job-related activities, but not purchased by the employees • Garments custom-made of material provided by the consumer • Products granted exemptions under Section (c)(2) of the original rule because they were completely washable and sold at retail for $3 or less If the product no longer meets this standard, the exemption is automatically revoked Violations Failure to provide reliable care instructions and warnings for the useful life of an item is a violation of the Federal Trade Commission Act Violators are subject to enforcement actions and penalties of up to $16,000 for each offense In enforcement actions, the FTC contends that each mislabeled garment is a violation Since 1990, the 38 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com FTC has brought 16 enforcement actions, one of which was litigated and 15 of which were resolved by settlements Penalties have ranged as high as $300,000 7.3 DETAIL ORDER FOR KNITTED WEAR PRODUCTION 39 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com REVISION B Unit to Detail order for Jacket production Translate purchase order of a Jacket into Vietnamese Detail order for Skirt production Translate purchase order of a skirt into Vietnamese Detail order for knitted wear production Translate purchase order of a knitted wear into Vietnamese 40 PDF created with pdfFactory Pro trial version www.pdffactory.com