Garment processing INTRODUCTION o The concept of garment dyeing is not new. Even in good old days, the old garments used to be dyed by households or by commercial launderers, which was basically done for changing the color of the faded garments to have a newer look. Articles like towels, linens, napkins, table cloth, hosiery goods, etc, are being processed in the ready made form only since the last four decades. o The garment dyeing of cotton garments such as trousers, jackets, shirts, skirts and tops is gaining popularity and is relatively new trend in the Indian garment industry. Garment dyeing has now become an important segment of apparel industry and its potential has yet to be exploited in India. Our society is gradually becoming more sensitive towards quick fashion changes, probably due to influence from the western countries. Therefore , it becomes necessary for garment suppliers and manufacturers to fulfill the customer’s demand by changing over to quick response system. What is Garment dyeing ? o Garment dyeing may be defined as the application of color to fully fashioned apparel articles and these fashioned apparel articles may be in the form :- o Garments cut and sewn from either prepared or unprepared knitted fabrics and then dyed. o Garments and / or components knitted from either prepared or unprepared yarn then dyed. o Garments manufactured from either prepared or unprepared woven fabric and then dyed. o Mixed fabric garments, i.e., woven and knitted fabrics manufactured from prepared fabrics and then dyed.  Out of four types of textile processing viz fibre processing, yarn processing, fabric processing and garment processing, the last option garment processing has gained momentum in past few years due to denim garments which is the largest garment segment being processed by this method.  There are many advantages of wet processing of denims like it give various novel effects and various processes like bleaching could also be done at preferred parts of the garments and so on. There are mainly two sub- segments of garment processing:- Garment wet processing  The dyeing of the garments demands more care than fabrics due to the fact that the processing involves value added goods.  The entire garment dyeing activities may be broken down into four categories, namely, fully fashioned garment dyeing, cut and sewn garment, dyeing of 100% cotton goods for boutique trades and processing of denims leading to stone wash, acid wash, washing and highlighting effects. Garment processing comprises of Wet processing machines classificationPaddling machineDrum machineWashing-centrifuging Jet dyeing centrifuging Garment dyeing machines and their principles Types of construction Types of liquor and government movement 1. Paddling machine Mechanical arrangements like paddle, drum 2. Drum machine Hydrodynamic movement with adjustable jets 3. Washing-centrifuging machines Hydrodynamic circulating dyeing machines with so called floating liquor circulation principle 4. Jet dyeing centrifuging machines Jets and nozzles are used to facilitate movement of the garments Paddling machine o It consist of either horizontal or vertical paddles . o Paddles are widely accepted for sweaters, loosely knitted goods due to their soft dyeing action, which avoids abrading and pilling of the garments. o For gentleness, the dyeing is carried out with m:l ratio of 30:1 to 40:1, the blades of the paddle are either curved or rounded and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 rpm to 40 rpm. Overhead paddle, lateral paddle and high temperature paddle machines serve the needs of the entire range of the garments. Washing centrifuging machine o This machine with multi-pocket designs have compartments to control garment movements, abrasion due to mechanical action by carrying the garments through the dye liquor in the compartments. o By making more compartments’ the tumbling effects and the entanglements in the garments are reduced and also are the abrasions associated with it. [...]... padded with the desizing mixture containing 0. 5-2 % malt extract and Non-ionic wetting agent at 6 0-7 0˚c o Wetting agents helps the enzyme to penetrate the size film Process Conc(g/l) Ph temp0c Malt Diastase 3-2 0 4. 5-5 .5 5 0-6 0 Pancreattic Diastase 1-3 6. 8-7 .5 5 0-6 0 Bacterial Diastase 0. 5-1 6. 5-7 .5 6 0-7 0  Desizing with amylases – enzymatic desizing using α amylase is the most popular method to remove starch... machine capacity varies from 25 kg - 125 kg of dry weight with m:l ratio of 1:25 to 1:40 and temperatures as high as up to 130° C  Garment Finishing :-through wet processing is responsible for adding beauty to the garment, proper finishing could provide better look to the garment, change the feel of the fabric and bring about a change to the fabric Typical denim wet finish includes desizing to soften... remedial measures :The dyeing of garment requires much more care than dyeing of the fabric, though there is very little difference in the dyeing procedure This is mainly due to the fact that the value of the fashioned garment is much more than the fabric and unlike the fabric, it is in a twisted and folded form during the dyeing process The majority of problems attributed to garment dyeing basically dpend... exhaustion is affected by process parameters such as:o Dosage-Optimum quantity is to be used,higher dosages reduces pigment build up ability and level dyeing ability o pH- Bath is to be maintained at slightly acidic side to achieve better exhaustion which gives uniform build up, desired shade depth o Temp- It is between RM temp to 80c which depends on polymer structure of cationizer o MLR- Too short... of garment: This problem mainly persists on fibre garments with nylon or polyester fastners This problem be avoided by dyeing the zippers, buttons separately, prior to putting on the garment In case of 100% cotton with undyed polyester zippers and buttons, past shades on the fastners can be achieved by adding low energy disperse dye with a direct dye bath In case of reactive dyeing low energy disperse... parameters:1 The pre-treatment of the garment prior to dyeing 2 The quality and the type of the material used in the making of garment, viz, fabric construction, sewing thread, buttons, zippers, pocket linings, etc 3 The dyeing process 4 The machinery used for dyeing  Variation in shade or depth of shade within the garment panels or from garment to garment, dyed in the same lot :This problem mainly... panels cut from piecees of unmercerised, mercerised and causticised fabrics The defect cannot be totally rectified even though by using selected dyes or using a single dye with minimum shading properties In either cases, the unmercerised cotton will be to some extent lighter in shade and must be accepted So it is necessary to identify and code the mercerised and unmercerised fabrics pieces prior to cutting... contrast to the fabric  DESIZING :- Desizing is the process in which the size applied to the warp yarn before weaving is removed to facilitate the penetration of dyes and chemicals in the subsequent wet processing operation The purpose of sizing is to form coating of sufficiently strong and woven fabric  Types of Desizing:1 Acid desizing – In this method cotton fabric is treated with dilute sulphuric... deeper shades carriers are added along eith disperse dyes  Puckering of seams during garment dyeing: A proper selection of swing thread is important, both from the point of view of garment manufcturing as well as dyeing While stitching garments meant for dyeing, it is necessary to maintain the sewing tension at minimum level, so as to get slack stitches This reduces the possibility of puckering due... goods, the extent of handling is more Quality control in garment processing The garments produced from woven fabrics have produced many problems, and experience has shown that existing styles as developed for piece-dyed fabric cannot be just assembled from grey fabric and thrown into the dyeing machines, unless they have been engineered from the original design stage for garment dyeing The major areas . temp0c Malt Diastase 3-2 0 4. 5-5 .5 5 0-6 0 Pancreattic Diastase 1-3 6. 8-7 .5 5 0-6 0 Bacterial Diastase 0. 5-1 6. 5-7 .5 6 0-7 0  Desizing with amylases – enzymatic desizing using α amylase is the most popular. of garment processing: - Garment wet processing  The dyeing of the garments demands more care than fabrics due to the fact that the processing involves value added goods.  The entire garment. processing and garment processing, the last option garment processing has gained momentum in past few years due to denim garments which is the largest garment segment being processed by this method.