Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 An Introduction to Washing Principles and Products Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences vertical We have to be carefull about 3 main parameters at laundry machines. These 3 parameters are; 1-rotation speed of the machine 2-falling height (depends on loading capacity, water amount, wing structure and rotation speed) 3-Machine surface area and structure (depends on the type of machine (vertical or horizontal) and amounts and size of the holes at the surface of machine) For the best results during the rotation of the machine from left to right, wings of the machine has to throw the garments from hour 11 point to hour 5 point. This adjustment can be done by arranging the loading amount- water level-and rotation speed. This equilibrium is the best level for optimum effect and safe wash. If the falling point passes over 12 then abrasion will be lost, if the falling point occurs before or around 9 again abrasion will be lost and in both cases related to the structure of the fabric risk of crease increases too much. Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences ROTATION SPEED LIQOUR RATIO RELATION LOW LIQOUR RATIO MEDIUM LIQOUR RATIO HIGH LIQOUR RATIO LOW ROTATION SPEED RISKY WASHING ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY OPTIMUM WASHING POINT 2 MEDIUM ROTATION SPEED ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY HIGH ROTATION SPEED OPTIMUM WASHING 1 ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY RISKY WASHING Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 WASHING MACHINERY Vertical Drum -sophisticated -high degree of automation / control -various sizes up to 750 kg capacity -more common in Europe/ North Africa/ Americas BARREL -simple -lower degree of sophistication -more aggressive action -more common in Asia Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences vertical barrel Drum diameters are different, beating rate per turn higher. Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences vertical barrel For machines of equal capacity, the barrel machine has greater metal surface friction area. Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences Carriage time Fall time Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences vertical barrel Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism differences for vertical drum machine less friction is imparted, resulting in less abrasion. vertical barrel Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 -Pre-treatment -stone and/or enzyme wash effect adjustment -bleaching colour adjustment -finishing Handle adjustment Main procsess in the laundry [...]... more prone to Ozone and yellowing AND SOLUTION LAVA SPERSE GROUPS Back-staining is UNDESIREABLE in denim washing Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 BACK-STAINING THERE ARE 3 BASIC GROUPS OF DISPERSING AGENTS FIRST GROUP IS WASHING AND SCOURING BASED PRODUCTS LIKE LAVA SPERSE HOC SECOND GROUP IS DISPERSING ABILITY BASED PRODUCTS LIKE LAVA SPERSE HES AND THE THIRD AND MOST... onto weft yarns and pockets Also used in stonewash / after washing to reduce back staining Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 BACK-STAINING Re-deposition of loose indigo, or indigo dyed short fibres, removed during desizing, stone -washing or enzyme washing Re-deposited Indigo, reduces the contrast between warp and undyed weft Re-deposited indigo stains pockets and labels Re-deposited... cellulases again to attack and weaken the cellulose fibres Any fibres protruding for the surface of the garment are weakened and exposed and prone to being broken Enzyme action alone is not enough to cause the breakage – mechanical action is also needed Either the action of fabric in jet, or in tumble drying Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 BIOPOLISH Process to attack the... fibres, which are then mechanically torn off during processing taking with them indigo attack point The need mechanical action to work, often to improve the rate of abrasion they are used with stones Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Indigo dyeing mechanism Consider a textile yarn It is not just a smooth surface, but thousands of parallel fibres twisted together The surface... THESE TWO GROUPS LAVA SPERSE KDS Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 ANTI-CREASE (Lava Lupe M-CF) Prevents crease formation during the washing procsess Increases the loading capacity of the washing machine Reduses the stone spots risk during the stone wash procsess Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES Enzyme is a kind... is active on For instance , catalase enzymes decompose hydrogen peroxide but they don`t affect the cellulasic fibres and cellulase enzymes attack the cellulosic fibre and give no damage to the peroxides Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Enzymes Enzymes are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group Head Body Anchor Their shape guarantees selectivitythey... GR/LT(wetting and scouring agent) LAVA SPERSE KDS 0,5-1 GR/LT(dispersing and washing agent) SERA LUPE M-CF 0,5-1 GR/LT(anti-crease agent) Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 WETTING DISPERSING AGENT Used in Desizing process must rapidly wet out jean prevents white lines caused by rigid creases permits penetration of Amylase to fully desize prevents back staining of loose indigo onto... out Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Indigo dyeing mechanism Indigo “ring dyes” It does not penetrate far into the individual fibres in a yarn It remains “stuck” on or very near the surface Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Indigo dyeing mechanism Abrasion removes the indigo from the surface of the textile Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles. .. -either from the cotton or from the manufacturing period garment can contain some impureties These impurities can be based on oil, alkaline or acidic chemicals and all of them can cause several problems in the next steps of washing In this step a professional laundry man has to decide about the risk and he has to use the suitable auxiliaries to remove these impurities *de-sizing: -all of the weaved fabrics... Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 ACID CELLULASE Working range ph 4.5 – 5.5 strong –medium action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibre attacks cotton fibres on surface of jean causes surface fibres to break and detach creates smooth usually in liquid form and un-buffered must be “killed” by alkalinity raise temp above 70 ºC Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 . Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 An Introduction to Washing Principles and Products Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment Team 10/06 Mechanism. 0,5-1 GR/LT(wetting and scouring agent) LAVA SPERSE KDS 0,5-1 GR/LT(dispersing and washing agent) SERA LUPE M-CF 0,5-1 GR/LT(anti-crease agent) Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles RBD Garment. AGENTS z FIRST GROUP IS WASHING AND SCOURING BASED PRODUCTS LIKE LAVA SPERSE HOC z SECOND GROUP IS DISPERSING ABILITY BASED PRODUCTS LIKE LAVA SPERSE HES AND THE THIRD AND MOST EFFECTIVE GROUP