[...]... Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:20 Women Page:20 MEN S AND WOMEN S CUSTOM-TAILORED TROUSERS I’ve included two examples of custom work from my friend and mentor, Seattle tailor and teacher Stanley Hostek, who lent me garments he made for himself and his wife They’re basic dress garments, with no frills or extras that might be added to custom garments intended for a client The men s... Job:03-10647 Title:CPI-Making Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:22 Women Page:22 WOMEN S GARMENT BY STANLEY HOSTEK Like the men s garment, this pair has a buttonhole tab extended from the shield Inside, the shield lining reinforces the crotch, along with stays The side and center-back seam allowances are extra wide as on the men s garment, and the pocket bag in front tacks into... Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:11 012-029_US_C50865.indd 12 4/9/09 3:57:09 PM (RAY) US_Text Job:03-10647 Title:CPI-Making Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:12 Women Page:12 C H A P T E R O N E LEARNING FROM CUSTOM AND READY-TO-WEAR GARMENTS Examining interesting garments is to me an essential part of learning to sew It’s a great way to discover details and. .. three fabric layers at the pockets, no facings Hand-lined waist This YSL women s garment is an example of classic menswear styling, handmade with couture techniques Band reinforced with petersham Hand-inserted zipper Self-fabric pockets Hanger loops 012-029_US_C50865.indd 15 4/13/09 2:06:16 PM (RAY) US_Text Job:03-10647 Title:CPI-Making Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:15 MID-LEVEL... Custom and Ready-to-Wear Garments 012-029_US_C50865.indd 19 19 4/13/09 2:27:07 PM (RAY) US_Text Job:03-10647 Title:CPI-Making Trousers For Men & Women MEN S PANTS FROM OXXFORD These men s trousers are a splendid cuffed garment in wool whipcord (with a differentcolored wrong side) from Oxxford Clothes The main innovation here is inside, where the pocket bags in front and back have been extended, and in... Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:33 OUTER AND INNER FABRICS There’s an oft-repeated bit of sewing terminology that distinguishes between top- and bottom-weight fabrics The idea is that some fabrics are too heavy for top garments, such as blouses and shirts, while others are too light for bottom garments, like skirts and pants Although this may seem true in general (and obviously... has been formed into a narrow, tubular reinforcement for the front crotch seam and is stitched to the seam allowances there to about 2 inches (5.1 cm) beyond the inseam Tucked into the inseam and front crotch seam stitching on each side are small triangular pieces of pocketing, which act as reinforcements called crotch or fork stays The entire waistband is split to be expandable at the sides and also... Pockets hang from band 012-029_US_C50865.indd 16 4/13/09 2:08:37 PM (RAY) US_Text Job:03-10647 Title:CPI-Making Trousers For Men & Women 04-AC50865 #175 Dtp:221(P) Page:16 WOMEN S PANTS BY MARY ELLEN FLURY All the pockets extend to the band stitching The front pockets do not extend to the side seams Self-lined waist This women s garment is a pair of woolen pants made by designer and sewing teacher... allowances and the edge of the canvas waist reinforcement can extend over the garment without being seen The canvas’s lower edge has been clipped about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep at intervals all along, to allow it to expand along with the curtain The band of Hostek’s women s garment is finished with a “curtain” below the band lining The canvas interfacing, clipped at intervals, is covered by the curtain The band and. .. remaining chapters of the book For me, making pants is all about the fabric and those specific details I can see or feel in the finished garment WAISTBANDS Cut-on waistbands—I prefer cut-on bands to sew-on bands any day A cut-on band is less work, and I think it looks more elegant, too When I do make a pair of pants with an addon band, however, I’m sure to press open the band/garment seam allowances as much . the rest of the book. For more information, discussion, and book-related extras, visit http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot. com, my blog all about making trousers and speci cally designed