1/22/2015 1 Unit 1 Apparel Industry • Geographic regions • Fashion history and trends (fashion timeline) • Famous fashion and apparel brands • Some terminologies in fashion area • Industrial processes of fashion product 1 Geographical regions of fashion styles Fashion Capital Ranking: New York, Paris, London, Los Angeles, Barcelona, Rome, Berlin, Sydney, Antwerp, Shanghai, Tokyo, Milan, Florence, Madrid, Sao Paolo, St Petersburg, Moscow, Singapore, Miami, Hong Kong 2 1/22/2015 2 Effect Factors on Fashion social norm (rule) fashion education mass media peer groups social criticism environment customs, traditions religion work leisure (relax) activities wealth or change in income inspiration by friends changing trends and values influence by family members education age Fashion itself is a reflection of social, economic, political and cultural changes. It expresses modernity, symbolizing the spirit of the times. Fashion trends’ impact on society and life 3 1. Couture beginnings 2. Early twentieth century 2.1 1900s 2.2 1910s 3. Golden age of French fashion 3.1 1920s 3.2 1930s 4. Mid-twentieth century 4.1 1940s 4.2 1950s 4.3 1960s 4.4 1970s 5. Late twentieth century 5.1 1980s 5.2 1990s 6. Twenty first century 6.1 2000s 6.2 2010s 6.3. Future 4 1/22/2015 3 Women’s Fashion Trends 5 Women’s Fashion Trends 6 1/22/2015 4 Women’s Fashion Trends 7 Women’s Fashion Trends 8 1/22/2015 5 Stages of garment creation (creative director) (pattern maker) (machine operator) (PR manager) (sale assistant) 9 What is “fashion” Fashion collection Fashion show Fashion week Fashion designer Fashion model Fashion trend Fashion event Fashion style Fashion world Fashion runway (catwalk) Fashion photographer Fashion journalist Fashion marketing Fashion media (television, magazine, newspaper, website) Fashion competition Fashion capital (e.g. Paris) Fashion products Fashion shop Fashion drawing Fashion magazine FASHION Clothing Footwear Accessories Make-up Furniture Body piercing Fashion is more than just a seasonal mood, fashion is a lifestyle and attitude matter. 10 1/22/2015 6 “fashionable and unfashionable” Characteristic of or influenced by a current popular trend or style * a fashionable man * a fashionable dress Outmoded > Unfashionable > Out of date > Out of style > Unstylish > Old- fashioned Haute couture (thời trang cao cấp) Casual suit (quần áo hàng ngày, thường phục) Conception of design (ý tưởng thiết kế) Collocation of color (sự kết hợp màu sắc) Sketch = layout = outline (bản phác họa) Motif = texture (họa tiết) Sewing kit (bộ đồ may vá) Designer (nhà thiết kế) Tailor (thợ may) Customer = client (khách hàng) Ready-made clothes (quần áo may sẵn) Figure (hình dáng) 11 Tasks of fashion retailer Work on the shop floor : • Displaying items • Serving customers • Dealing with any queries or complaints • Advising customers on their purchases • Ordering, managing and taking out stock • Helping with promotions • Overseeing deliveries • Managing and motivating staff • Making sure sales targets Be a buyer and a merchandiser: • Selecting new products and reviewing the old • Finding the right suppliers • Negotiating prices • Ensuring the delivery of products on time • Helping to interpret reports and predicting future sales • Pitching ideas to senior management • Stock control • Budgeting • Promoting products • Reacting to any changes in customer demand • Maintaining relationships with existing suppliers while seeking new ones • Attending trade events • Getting feedback from customers • Supporting design and production teams 12 1/22/2015 7 Top 10 apparel brands - Value ESP $20.2 billion USA $15.8 billion SWE $12.7 billion USA $5.6 billion GER $4.88 billion JPN $4.63 billion ENG $4.12 billion CAN $3.76 billion GER $3.52 billion USA $1.8 billion 13 “Fashion Industry”  Brands, retailers, importers, and wholesalers of textiles and apparels.  Service providers (consultants, customs brokers, freight forwarders, law firms, logistics providers, steamship lines, and testing and certification companies).  Manufacturers and suppliers of finished products and inputs for finished products, as well as supplier associations, business councils, and promotional groups.  Agencies that promote the industry from a specific region, country, city, or other geographic entity.  Academic institutions. From design and development, to sourcing and logistics, to trade policy and compliance, to retail and marketing 14 1/22/2015 8 Clothes or Garments 15 US Apparel Market hosiery womenswear footwear menswear childrenswear apparel accessories 16 1/22/2015 9 Apparel Manufacturing Processes Knowledge is the key to success and this also stands true for textile industry. Every textile entrepreneur needs to know the basic, traditional as well as modern and technical apparel making techniques. This helps the traders compare all the available means in the market and select the one best suited for the business requirement. The basic processes of textile manufacturing include spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing processes, dyeing, printing and others. The actual ready to wear apparel involves many more processes right from pattern drafting to garment construction: pattern designing and pattern making, grading, marker making, apparel cutting, sewing, pressing and finishing. 17 Garment Production Processes (1) (1) Pattern Making The basic procedure for apparel making is to design a pattern and put it into an identifiable form. The traditional method of pattern making includes creation of hard paper patterns. The modern apparel making system has adopted the digitization of pattern making process. These days many clothing firms provide the most modern and technical services for garment construction. They can create fresh computerized patterns or make modifications to existing hard paper patterns or digitize the available data. These patterns can be made from their own samples or specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers. Most of these firms try to provide patterns that will sew properly without confusion in the production line. 18 1/22/2015 10 (2) Pattern Grading Pattern grading is the process used for creating sized patterns. There are certain proportional rules and set increments that form the basis of grading. These rules are set on the basis of analysis on body measurements of the general population. The clothing firms also help in pattern grading using the specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers and some of them also assist the manufacturers in establishing specifications for their product. The grade rules are developed keeping in view the market segment for which the product is intended such as men, women, youth, child, toddler etc. These firms mostly use the softwares available in the market for checking the accuracy of the grades. (3) Marker making Fabric is the most important basic material for apparel making and it accounts for around 50 per cent of the ex-factory cost of a garment. Thus, material optimization or maximizing fabric utilization is the fundamental factor for every apparel firm. Marker making is done to avoid material wastage. While making markers, fabric width, length, fabric type and subsequent cutting method, all are taken into account. Both single size and multiple size paper markers are made using automated marker making tools and Computer Aided Design Computer Aided Manufacturing (CADCAM) along with traditional manual methods. The firms providing this service use previously graded pattern or the digitized copy of styles provided by the apparel manufacturers. Garment Production Processes (2) 19 (4) Apparel Cutting Apart from using traditional tools such as straight knife, band knife, shears etc. Nowadays, automatic spreading equipment and computerized cutting systems are widely used for apparel cutting . Pattern specifications are kept into consideration while cutting which ensures that the constructed garment is exactly similar to the sample produced. The use of markers ensures as little textile waste as possible. (5) Apparel Sewing The sewing operation in most of the garment construction companies is closely supervised for quality control. A variety of apparel styles and fabrics are sewn these days. There are a large number of sewing machines available for almost any sewing operation. Some of the examples of such machines are single needle, double needle, safety stitch, automatic meter, automatic multi stitch, loop tacker, pocket welt, keyhole buttonhole, automatic button sewer, round eyelet etc. (6) Pressing and Finishing After the sewing operation, the constructed garments are examined, pressed, tagged and bagged in the pressing and finishing department. The automated processes adopted these days prevent the possibility of wrinkling of the sewn garments throughout the finishing process. Garment Production Processes(3) 20 [...].. .1/ 22/2 015 Why do people wear clothes ? • • • • To feel comfortable To cover up skin for protection against risks To invest in beautiful things To feel better about themselves 21 Descriptive Adjectives in Fashion • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Daring : Táo bạo Accentuated: Nổi bật... Redundant: Rườm rà Sexy: Gợi tình Sleek: Bóng bẩy Flashy: Hào nhoáng Convenient: Tiện lợi Comfortable: Thoải mái Colorful: Sặc sỡ Shy: E ấp Noble: Quí phái Meticulous: Tỉ mỉ, cầu kỳ Strong: Mạnh mẽ Manly: Nam tính Feminine: Nữ tính Simple: Giản dị Popular: Bình dân Discreet: Kín đáo Stylish: Sành điệu 22 11 1/ 22/2 015 Related verbs to clothes wearing • • • • • • • • • • • • • Attire /əˈtɑɪ:ə/: mặc, trang... ənˈfæ.sᵊn/: cởi thắt Unzip /ənˈzip/: mở khóa Wear /ˈwɛə/: mặc, đeo Wrap /ˈræp/: quấn, choàng Zip up /ˈzip/: cài khóa 23 Verbs about caring clothes Dry Squeeze Fold Wash Iron Dye Rinse Bleach Hang up 24 12 . life 3 1. Couture beginnings 2. Early twentieth century 2 .1 1900s 2.2 19 10s 3. Golden age of French fashion 3 .1 1920s 3.2 19 30s 4. Mid-twentieth century 4 .1 1940s 4.2 19 50s 4.3 19 60s 4.4 19 70s 5 to retail and marketing 14 1/ 22/2 015 8 Clothes or Garments 15 US Apparel Market hosiery womenswear footwear menswear childrenswear apparel accessories 16 1/ 22/2 015 9 Apparel Manufacturing Processes Knowledge. production teams 12 1/ 22/2 015 7 Top 10 apparel brands - Value ESP $20.2 billion USA $15 .8 billion SWE $12 .7 billion USA $5.6 billion GER $4.88 billion JPN $4.63 billion ENG $4 .12 billion CAN $3.76