[...]... BACKGROUND 9 We often forget that the development of fibres of regenerated or modified cellulose, and much of dyeing technology, occurred with little understanding of the molecular nature of fibres The idea of a polymer molecule was not accepted before 1925 The work of Staudinger, Mark, Carothers and others, eventually confirmed that fibres consist of bundles of long, linear molecules of very high molecular... for a multitude of different textile products Each type of fibre requires specific types of dyes and dyeing methods Fortunately, the dyeing of many minor fibres is often very similar to that of a chemically related major fibre For example, the dyeing of mohair is very similar to wool dyeing The 5 ´ 1010 kg of fibres consumed annually require about Table 1.1 Classification of the major textile fibres... preparation of yarn hanks and bobbins for dyeing merits particular attention The two major characteristics of a yarn are its degree of twist and its thickness or count The thickness of a yarn, or of continuous filaments, is expressed as the length of a given weight of yarn, or vice versa For example, the denier of a continuous filament is the weight in grams of 9000 m A considerable number of older measures... interested in writing a textbook on textile dyeing and related topics along the lines of E R Trotman’s Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibres, the sixth edition of which was published in 1984 This led to a sabbatical leave in the Department of Colour Chemistry at the University of Leeds during 1994–95 that allowed completion of the planning and some initial writing of this work My original idea... future of the colorant and textile industries in the developed nations of the Western block (3) the majority of chemicals and processes presently in use were introduced prior to 1975 and their originators have no further patent protection; the perceived low probability of developing new types of textile fibres and dyes has considerably limited fundamental research in these areas One effect of these... structures of the dyes often result in bright colours Dyes with simple molecular structures can often be prepared with a minimum of contaminating isomers and by-products that tend to dull the colour Inducing a chemical reaction between a fibre and an absorbed dye molecule is another significant way of producing dyeings of good washing fastness Reactive dyes have become one of the most important types of dye... influence the gross weight of a given amount of fibre This has consequences in buying and selling, and is also significant in dyeing Amounts of dyes used are usually expressed as a percentage of the weight of material to be coloured Thus, a 1.00% dyeing corresponds to 1.00 g of dye for every 100 g of fibre, usually weighed under ambient conditions For hydrophilic fibres, the variation of fibre weight with... have inherent variations in their properties because of growth differences, and blending of the fibres is vital to ensure constant quality of the yarns produced Good opening and separation of clumps of fibres is essential for level dyeing of loose fibre in a dyeing machine with circulating liquor The objective of carding is to make a continuous band of parallel fibres called card sliver This process... (Germany), Macart Textiles Ltd (UK) and MCS SpA (Italy) for dyeing machine illustrations The completion of this book is the result of the dedicated work of the editorial staff of the SDC, in particular Paul Dinsdale and Carol Davies, who all have my sincere gratitude ARTHUR D BROADBENT xiv Prelims.p65 14 27/07/01, 10:06 1 CHAPTER 1 An introduction to textiles, dyes and dyeing The manufacture of textiles is... outline of textile manufacture identifies the major processes, the division of operations, and situates coloration in the overall scheme Chapter 2 provides more details on fibres and textile manufacturing Cotton and wool are only available as short staple fibres of pre-determined length, but artificially made fibres are available either as continuous filaments or short fibres cut to any required length Textile .