Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 1 Textile Testing: The testing of textile products is an expensive business. A laboratory has to be set up and furnished with a range of test equipment. Trained operatives have to be employed whose salaries have to be paid throughout the year, not just when results are required. Moreover all these costs are nonproductive and therefore add to the final cost of the product. Therefore it is important that testing is not undertaken without adding some benefit to the final product. There are a number of points in the production cycle where testing may be carried out to improve the product or to prevent sub-standard merchandise progressing further in the cycle. Reasons for Textile Testing 1. Checking Raw Materials 2. Monitoring Production 3. Assessing the Final Product 4. Investigation of Faulty Material 5. Product Development and Research Checking Raw Materials The production cycle as far as testing is concerned starts with the delivery of raw material. If the material is incorrect or sub-standard then it is impossible to produce the required quality of final product. The textile industry consists of a number of separate processes such as natural fibre production, man-made fibre extrusion, wool scouring, yarn spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing, knitting, garment manufacture and production of household and technical products. These processes are very often carried out in separate establishments, therefore what is considered to be a raw material depends on the stage in processing at which the testing takes place. It can be either the raw fibre for a spinner, the yarn for a weaver or the finished fabric for a garment maker. The incoming material is checked for the required properties so that unsuitable material can be rejected or appropriate adjustments made to the production conditions. The standards that the raw material has to meet must be set at a realistic level. If the standards are set too high then material will be rejected that is good enough for the end use, and if they are set too low then large amounts of inferior material will go forward into production. Monitoring Production Production monitoring, which involves testing samples taken from the production line, is known as quality control. Its aim is to maintain, within known tolerances, certain specified properties of the product at the level at which they have been set. A quality product for these purposes is defined as one whose properties meets or exceeds the set specifications. Besides the need to carry out the tests correctly, successful monitoring of production also requires the careful design of appropriate sampling procedures and the use of statistical analysis to make sense of the results. Assessing the Final Product In this process the bulk production is examined before delivery to the customer to see if it meets the specifications. By its nature this takes place after the material has been produced. It is therefore too late to alter the production conditions. In some cases selected samples are tested and in other cases all the material is checked and steps taken to rectify faults. For instance some qualities of fabric are inspected for faulty places Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 2 which are then mended by skilled operatives; this is a normal part of the process and the material would be dispatched as first quality. Investigation of Faulty Material If faulty material is discovered either at final inspection or through a customer complaint it is important that the cause is isolated. This enables steps to be taken to eliminate faulty production in future and so provide a better quality product. Investigations of faults can also involve the determination of which party is responsible for faulty material in the case of a dispute between a supplier and a user, especially where processes such as finishing have been undertaken by outside companies. Work of this nature is often contracted out to independent laboratories who are then able to give an unbiased opinion. Product Development and Research In the textile industry technology is changing all the time, bringing modified materials or different methods of production. Before any modified product reaches the market place it is necessary to test the material to check that the properties have been improved or have not been degraded by faster production methods. In this way an improved product or a lower-cost product with the same properties can be provided for the customer. A large organisation will often have a separate department to carry out research and development; otherwise it is part of the normal duties of the testing department. Textile Testing & Quality Control (TTQC) is very important work or process in each department of export oriented industry. Buyers want quality but not quantity. In every department of textile industry quality maintained of each material, Because one material‘s quality depend on another‘s quality. For example, if qualified fiber is inputted then output will be good yarn. Testing : Testing is the process or procedure to determines the quality of a product. Quality : The term quality refers the excellence of a product. When we say the quality of a product is good . We mean that the product is good for the purpose for which it has been made. Control : To check or verify and hence to regulate. Quality Control: Quality control is the synthetic and regular control of the variable which affect the quality of a product. The operational techniques and activities that sustain the quality of a product or service in order to satisfy given requirements . It consists of quality planning , data collection, data analysis and implementation and is applicable to all phases of product life cycle ; design, manufacturing, delivery and installation, operation and maintenance. Objects of Quality Control:  To produce required quality product.  To fulfill the customer's demand.  To reduce the production cost.  To reduce wastage.  To earn maximum profit at minimum cost. Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 3 Objective of Testing Reasons for Textile Testing: Checking the quality and suitability of raw material and selection of material. Monitoring of production i.e. process control. Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable or not, (how will be the yarn performance in weaving? etc). Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of customer complaint, identification of fault in machine etc.). Product development and research. Specification testing: Specifications are formed and the materials are tested to prove whether they fall within the limits allowed in the specification (e.g. specified by a customer). Test Requirement for Export quality Textile Product Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 4 Standard Operating Procedure(SOP) 6 Supplier submits samples & TRF LAB Project Team receives and acknowledges receipt of sample & TRF Sample preparation Testing starts Test Data available Supervisors verify results Prepare Test Report & invoice Report issued and sent to suppliers 10.01.2015 Corporate Presentation Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 5 Major Chemical Test of Textile Product Formaldehyde  Volatile compound  A gas at room temperature with a pungent smell  Readily soluble in water to form formalin or formol  Washing might reduce formaldehyde of fabrics  Release from textile at body temperature  Formaldehyde exposure can be in the form of gas –phase inhalation or liquid - phase skin absorption Exposure to high concentration formaldehyde can be fatal; it can cause skin allergy and mucous membrane irritations.  Long term exposure may cause respiratory difficulty, eczema and sensitization It is classed as a human carcinogen and has been linked to nasal lung cancer, and with possible links to brain cancer and leukemia. Nickel Release  Asthma and chronic bronchitis  Allergic reactions such as skin rashes  Heart disorders Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 6 Hexavalent Chromium (Cr VI) Chemical element chromium (Cr) exists in three main forms: 1. Chromium metal 2. Trivalent chromium (Cr III) - health effect: safe - Cr III sulfate: tanning processes 3. Hexavalent chromium (Cr VI) - inhalation exposure: lung cancer - direct skin contact: cause skin irritation WHO & EPA: Cr VI is human carcinogen WHO EP Requirement is 3 mg/kg Phthalates Phthalates , or phthalate esters, are esters of phthalic acid and are mainly used as plasticizers (substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity). Phthalates are manufactured by reacting phthalic anhydride with alcohol(s) that range from methanol and ethanol (C1/C2) up to tridecyl alcohol (C13), either as a straight chain or with some branching. They are divided into two distinct groups, with very different applications, toxicological properties, and classification, based on the number of carbon atoms in their alcohol chain. They are used primarily to soften polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Lower- molecular-weight phthalates (3-6 carbon atoms in their backbone) are being gradually replaced in many products in the United States, Canada, and European Union over health concerns. They are replaced by high- molecular-weight phthalates (those with more than 6 carbons in their backbone, which gives them increased permanency and durability). In 2010, the market was still dominated by high-phthalate plasticizers; however, due to legal provisions and growing environmental awareness and perceptions, producers are increasingly forced to use non-phthalate plasticizers. Phthalates are used in a wide range of common products, and are easily released into the environment. Although there is no covalent bond between the phthalates and plastics, they are physically bound into the plastic as a result of the heating process used to make PVC articles. They can be removed only by exposure to severe heat or using strong solvents. However, people are exposed to phthalates, and most Americans tested by the Centers Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 7 for Disease Control and Prevention have metabolites of multiple phthalates in their urine. Phthalate exposure may be through direct use or by indirect means through leaching and general environmental contamination. Diet is believed to be the main source of di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) and other phthalates in the general population. Fatty foods such as milk, butter, and meats are a major source. In studies of rodents exposed to certain phthalates, high doses have been shown to change hormone levels and cause birth defects. Application  As plasticizer in plastics (especially PVC)  Increase softness and flexibility  Advantage: flexibility, durability, longevity and low cost Health effect  Bio-cumulative  Endocrine disruptor  Certain phthalates as well as their metabolites and degradation products can cause adverse effects on human health, in particular on liver and kidney for DINP and on testicles for DEHP. Breast cancer However, women may be at higher risk for potential adverse health effects of phthalates due to increased cosmetic use. Diethyl phthalate and dibutyl phthalate are especially ubiquitous in cosmetics and personal care products  Synthetic organic colorants  In theory, azo dyes can supply a complete rainbow of colours. They have fair to good fastness properties.  The azo compound class accounts for 60-70% of all dyes.  These dyes may undergo in vivo reductive cleavage to aromatic amines and some of them are proven or supposed carcinogenic. Application Cotton Wool Polyester, Polyamide (Nylon ), Polyacrylonitrile (Synthetic fibres) Leather Paper Foodstuff Hair Wood Technical relevance of Azodyes More than 3000 different azo colorants (dyes+pigments) are produced. Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 8 Approximately 50 - 150 are banned azodyes. 50-150 - banned amine components > 50% of the dyes used nowadays are azodyes. Percent distribution of each chemical class between major application range Chemical class Acid Basic Direct Dispers e Mord ent Pigme nt Reac tive Solve nt Vat Unmetalized Azo 20 5 30 12 12 6 10 5 - Metal complex Azo 65 - 10 - - - 12 13 - Thiazole - 5 95 - - - - - - Stilbene - - 98 - - - - - 2 Anthraquinone 15 2 - 25 3 4 6 9 36 Indigoid 2 - - - - 17 - - 81 Quinophthalone 30 20 - 40 - - - 10 - Aminoketone 11 - - 40 8 - 3 8 30 Phthalocyanine 14 4 8 - 4 - 43 15 3 Formazan 70 - - - - - 30 - - Methine - 71 - 23 - 1 - 5 - Percent distribution of each chemical class between major application range Chemical class Acid Basi c Direct Disperse Mord ent Pigm ent Reactive Solve nt Vat Nitro,Nitro so 31 2 - 48 2 5 - 12 - Triarylmet hane 35 22 1 1 24 5 - 12 - Xanthane 33 16 - - 9 2 2 38 - Acridine - 92 - 4 - - - 4 - Azine 39 39 - - - 3 - 19 - Oxazine - 22 17 2 40 9 10 - - Thiazine - 55 - - 10 - - 10 25 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr.(Textile) Page | 9 Percent distribution of chemical classes in Reactive dye hue sectors/% Chemical class Yello w Oran ge Red Violet Blue Green Brown Black % of all reactive dyes Unmetaliz ed Azo 97 90 90 63 20 16 57 42 66 Metal complex Azo 2 10 9 32 17 5 43 55 15 Anthraquin one 5 34 37 3 10 Phthalocy anine 27 42 8 Miscellane ous 1 1 2 1 Percent distribution of chemical classes in Disperse dye hue sectors/% 10.01.2015 Corporate Presentation24 Chemical class Yello w Oran ge Red Violet Blue Green Brown Black % of all disperse dyes Azo 48 92 73 47 27 30 100 100 59 Anthraquin one 6 2 25 53 72 65 32 Nitro 16 3 3 Aminoketo ne 8 2 1 1 5 2 Methine 14 2 Quinophth alone 4 1 Miscellane ous 4 1 1 1 [...]... Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile)  Rayon: • It is a regenerated cellulose fiber which is almost pure cellulose Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash The burning smell is close to burning leaves Page | 30 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) FIBER BURN TEST Page | 31 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) ... such as upholstery, carpeting and other wearing apparel through rubbing action Page | 22 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Colorfastness to Perspiration This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles to the effects of perspiration A specimen of colored textile and multifiber test fabric is wet out in a simulated perspiration solution, subject... The purpose of this test is to insure that colored textiles do not excessively stain clothing or change color under the action of perspiration This will be particularly important in underwear Page | 23 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Colorfastness to Light This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness property of textiles when subjected to light A test specimen... through an experimental approach are dealt with Flammability Testing Test Method(s): · 16 CFR 1610 · ASTM D6413 Page | 25 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) · NFPA 701 · 191A Method 5903 Flammability of Wearing Apparel - 16 CFR 1610 (45 Degree Flammability) The United States Federal Government requires clothing and textiles intended to be used for clothing to have Normal... Page | 13 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Control of shrinkage: Origin of shrinkage in fabrics: Fibers spun into yarn are under constant tension during the weaving process Such action will impose internal stresses in the fiber molecules Without permanent fixing, fibers tend to revert to their natural state, which causes shrinkage In general, the factors in controlling... and weft directions Page | 17 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Sample size for Pendulum tear Important Note:  Coarser yarn size gives greater tearing strength  Looser sett gives better tearing strength  Different surface finishes on the fabric will affecting the tearing properties Bursting Strength Determination of bursting strength of textile fabrics using hydraulic... insure that textile products do not have excess color fading under store lighting and in direct sunlight ISO 105 B02 (method 2) Light source Xenon arc lamp Black panel temperature 48 ± 2°C Relative humidity 40 ± 5% Irradiance (at 420 nm) 1.10 ± 0.03 W/m2/nm Irradiance (at 300 - 400 nm) 42 W/m2 Colorfastness to Saliva (DIN 53160) Page | 24 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) ... molecules in the fiber or because of their removal into the external medium Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering Page | 21 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) This test is designed to evaluate the colorfastness properties of textiles which are intended to be laundered frequently The fabric color loss, bleeding, and surface changes resulting from the detergent... smoke One reason that tobacco smoke may cause cancer Naphthalene Nap  was used in moth balls  gave moths balls its typical smell Requirement: Page | 12 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Major Physical Tests for Textile product: Dimensional Stability Test Determination of the dimensional stability (shrinkage or growth) of woven and knit fabrics when subjected to Domestic... and natural fibers Page | 35 Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) •Easily conducted  Limitations •Certain manufacturing and finishing processes like mercerizing, affects the appearance of the fibers under the microscope •Very dark colored fabrics cannot be identified under microscope •Dye stuffs must be removed from fabrics Advanced Fiber Testing Machine: Scanning electron . Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Page | 1 Textile Testing: The testing of textile products is an expensive business at minimum cost. Textile Testing & Quality Control Md.Azmir Latif, M.Engr. (Textile) Page | 3 Objective of Testing Reasons for Textile Testing: Checking the quality and suitability. has been made. Control : To check or verify and hence to regulate. Quality Control: Quality control is the synthetic and regular control of the variable which affect the quality of a product.