T HE G U IDE S T H A T S H OW Y OU W HAT O THER S O NLY T ELL Y OU P ARADORS P P R ES T AURA NT S M A P S I N NS H O T ELS C H ALE TS B & B F A RMH OUS E S A U BER G E S P OUS ADA S US /Canjkt 19/11/01 H4M30 CT 00 QC KL 5 EYEWITNESS T RAVEL G UIDES C K P 485CV C K P 485CV GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/9/01 3:44 PM Page 330 IT A LY 33 0 I T ALY ’ S BE ST p laces to sta y are o f ten at t h e very chea p or the very expensive en d o f t h e s p ectrum. Many cities offer little in between, b ut away f rom ur b an ce n t r es t h e c h o i ce i s w i de r . O f ten o ld f arm estates i n beautiful countr y side have been restored to incor p orate g uest accommo d ation. Some o f t h e I T A L Y R E GIO N BY R EGIO N I N THIS GUIDE , Italy has been d i v i ded in to t hr ee a r eas: N ort h ern Ita l y, Centra l Ita ly a n d Sout h ern Ita l y. N orthern Italy Th is is t h e wea l t h iest part o f t h e countr y . T h e b usines s lunch and the cor p orat e weekend kee p some ver y good hotels and restaurants i n business , from Milan – ce n t r e o f t h e te x t il e a n d f as h ion tra d e – to Bo l ogna, t h e me d ieva l city at t h e h eart of Ita ly ’s version o f si l icon va ll e y . Venice, sin k in g un d er t h e wei gh t o f its visitors, h as a f ew goo d -va l ue p l aces t o s ta y , but onl y if y ou know th e two - sta r p ension i a re trul y exce ll ent, run b y h ar d wor k ing o wners: their hos p itality and c ooking can be unique. For g l amour, h ea d f or a top h ote l in a h istoric buildin g – even if y our b u d get restricts your stay t o one ni g ht. Whether it’s in the c entre of Milan, deep in the countrysi d e, surroun d e d b y v ineyards or on a fortified hill to p , ch ances are it wi ll b e un f orgetta bl e. I T ALY V illa d’Este, Lake Como, page 343, a beautiful hotel with romantic grounds and a glittering interior s core; an d , o f course, it h as i ts famous, luxur y canalside p a l azzi – a t a p r i ce. P erha p s the most interesting e x p eriences are p rovided by the small historic towns such a s Ravenna, Bergamo and P arma, wit h t h eir artistic an d a rc h itectura l treasures, an d h ote l s t h at ex ud e b o n ho mie a n d serve up c l assic Nort h Ita l ian coo k in g . But d on’t o ver l oo k t h e Ita l ian l a k es o f C omo, Orta and Ma gg iore : the y have a wistful, old- fashioned a pp eal with one o r two absolutely glorious g rande dame h ote l s. T he mountainous northern- m ost parts o f Ita l y wer e a cquire d at t h e b eginning o f t h e 20t h centur y , f rom w h at u se d to b e sout h ern Austria, Slovenia and p arts of France. A l p ine-style chalet guest- h ouses wit h b a l conies f u ll o f g eraniums, an d d ump l ings o n th e menu, are an incon g ruous f eature in t h ese parts. T h e A d riatic coast l ine is fl at, w it h gri ll - p an sun b at h ing an d g enuinely warm hos p itality. O n the o pp osite side of the country is the Ligurian Ri v i e r a. H e r e i s t h e s m a r t r esort of Portofino ; the former f is h ing vi ll age wit h its mini- scu l e h ar b our is f or many t rave ll ers a must-see-an d - b e- seen-at stopover. Its h ote l p rices are o ff t h e top en d o f th e sca l e, b ut y ou can a l wa y s v isit for the da y and then sta y in nearb y Santa Mar g herita o r Ra p allo, which offer much better value. 00 1 1 (TEXT BLACK plate) 7:27 PM Page 330 1 3:44 PM Page 3301 3:44 PM Page 330 1 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/9/0GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/9/0 0 0 1 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/9/01 3:45 PM Page 331 I TALY 3 3 1 331 C entral Italy Florence is one the hi g hli g hts of man y a modern g rand tour . Its outstanding p laces to stay include a p alace in the hill s outside town. For fewer crowds , head for the walled t owns suc h as Lucca, or g o east towar d s Um b ria or even l itt l e-visite d Le Marc h e ( T h e M arc h es’ ) , w h ere t h ere are some f ine countr y h ote l s near th e me d ieva l cities o f Arezz o and Sanse p olcro. Th e i s l a n d o f Sa r d ini a i s sa i d to h ave t h e c l ea r est w ater for snorkelling and scuba diving. Choose between the glitzy Costa Smera ld a or quieter, an d more b eauti f u l b ac k waters. R ome an d its province o f Lazio cou ld k eep you b usy f or wee k s, an d t h ere are pl enty o f c h oices o f l o d gings, w ith a mix of one-stars and classic grand Italian hotels in t he centre and more s p acious p laces with gardens in the outer districts. O n the othe r s i de of the country, t h e A b ruzzo an d M o l ise are empty, moun- t ainous quarters f rom w h ic h th ousan d s h ave emi g rate d over t h e past 200 years. Hotels are s p arse and itineraries need p lanning . S outhern Ital y The landsca p e becomes d ramatica ll y rugge d on t h e A ma lf i peninsu l a sout h o f Nap l es. Here t h ere’s a c h oice b etween exce ll ent f ami ly -ru n pens i on i or l uxur y p a l azzi in vi ll a g es suc h as Rave ll o . The islands of Ischia and C a p ri in the Bay of Na p les h ave accommodation in every p rice band, and are at their Venice’s Danieli, page 356 – in a famed location overlooking the lagoon c aptivating, f rom t h e f as h ion- abl e resort o f Taormina to t h e c a p ital, Palermo. H IGHLIGHTS H O TELS ILLUSTRATED o n these p ages are b y no means t h e on ly h i ghl i gh ts. Ot h er f avo u rites inc lud e t h e Baia d ’Oro in Gargnano (page 3 4 5), f or its f a b u l ous settin g on La k e G arda; the Salivol p i farm- ho u se hotel in Castellina in Chianti ( p age 360), p erfect for family holidays; Rome’ s H assler ( p age 367), a luxurious ex p erience in old -wor ld l iving; an d t he ch arming Be ll evue Syrene i n Sorrento ( page 379 ) , f or i ts stunning c l i ff top setting. F OOD A N D D RINK E AT ING OU T i s one o f t h e o b vious p l easures o f a h o l i d a y in Ita ly , an d t h e r e g iona l d i ff erences a dd to t h e ex p erience. In d ee d , t h ere is s uch a variet y of re g ional c uisine that it is im p ossible to d o it j ustice here. b est in ear l y spring b e f ore th e h o l i d a y crow d s arrive. P u gl ia, in t h e ‘ h ee l ’ o f Ita ly , h as b ecome f as h iona ble amon g Ita l ians, as h ave t h e Aeolian islands and Pan - t elleria. There are man y villas f or rent here , but few recom - mendable hotels. Sicily is a different world, with p alm t rees, citrus groves an d vo l canic b eac h es. T h ere are s ome great p l aces to stay h ere, t h ou gh , a g ain, not in l ar g e num b ers. We b e l ieve w e h ave f eat u re d t h e most The remarkable La Posta Vecchia, Palo Laziale, p age 36 5 (TEXT BLACK plate) 7:27 PM Page 331 1 3:45 PM Page 3311 3:45 PM Page 331 1 1 1 00 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/9/0GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/9/0 0 1 0 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/6/01 8:00 PM Page 332 IT A LY 33 2 N ort h ern d is h es ten d to be p ork, veal and dairy based, with cream y sauces. In th e s outh, vegetables and fis h p redominate, and many p ast a d ishes are accom p anied by ‘raw’ sauces in which tom- a toes, f or examp l e, are s weate d wit h g ar l ic an d oi l f o r j ust a f ew moments so t h at t he f res h ness o f t h e in g re d ients c omes t h rou gh . Amon g t he m an y h i ghl i gh ts o f Ita l ian c ookin g are Milanese risotto, c oloured b y saffron and flavoured with rosemary and the j uices from a veal roast; a n d fr es h m o zz a r e ll a fr o m a round Na p les, which s p ill s c r ea m f r o m i ts ce n t r e whe n y ou cut into it. For some o f t h e b est p l aces f or l oca l d e l icacies, l oo k out for the ‘ Agriturismo ‘ ’ si g ns, u sua lly a crosse d k ni f e an d fork. Cheese , salami , homemade p asta, honey an d o ther farm p roduce can be e n j oyed in delightful, simple s urroundings. A risto r ante i s usua ll y quite a f orma l p l ace, wit h ran k s o f k nives an d f or k s an d o f ten a b usiness c l iente l e. T h e mor e i n f orma l o ster ia s erves re g iona l specia l ities, t h oug h t h e term i s b eing high j acked by smarte r e sta b lishments. The b irreri a ( p ubs) an d vine r ia ( wine bars ) o f te n o ff e r m eat a n d l ocal cheese-based snacks ( a snack is a m erenda ) . Th e m ost e njoya bl e t r atto r ie a r e the l oca l , f ami l y-run p l aces w h er e t h e a b sence o f a written menu, or a set menu wit h no c h oices, i s usua lly a si g n t h at t h e f oo d wi ll b e simp l e, b ut unpre- tentio u s and delicio u s. S p ace doesn’t p ermit mor e than a brief sketch of Italian wine. Among the oustanding regions are Tuscany (for B runello di Montalcino an d V ino No b i l e d i Montepu l - ciano ) ; Friu l i; an d Le Lang h e, a l itt l e- k nown re g ion o f P iemonte in Nort h ern Ita ly (f or t h e wei gh t y Baro l os an d t h e e art hy Bar b eras ) . W hen eatin g out, most Italians order a b ottle with a label only on s p ecial occas- io n s. Th e n o rm i s to h ave a carafe of house wine (usually local and p erfectly q uaffable). Ask for un quarto ( quarter ) or un mezzo (h a lf) l itre. Lunch is generally fro m 1 2:30–3 p m; dinner from 8–11 p m or midnight, ofte n f ollowed by a stroll around th e piazza, a co ff ee or a visit to a gelateria ( ice-cream par l our ) . Dinner starts wit h ant i past o ( sea f oo d sa l a d , or a se l ection o f sa l ami ) , f o ll owe d by il p r i mo ( pasta or a soup ) an d on to the main b usiness of i l secon d o ( the meat or fish course). Vegetables ( conto r ni ) i are ordered se p arately. Dessert ( dolci ) usually comes from the i t rolley. Most p laces make a cover charge ( pane e coperto) ( ( an d may a l so a dd a 10 per cent service c h ar g e. Ta k e y our receipt ( ricevuta fiscale) w h en y ou l eave t h e restaurant, or y ou can b e su b ject to an on- t he-s p ot fine; this strange law w as introduced as an attem p t t o cut down on tax evasion. B ED R OO M SA N D B A T HROOM S T HE ( p otentiall Y e mbar- rassing) Italian word for a double bed is a mat r im- oniale. If you don’t s p ecify th is, twin b e d s are auto- matica ll y a ll ocate d . However , y ou can as k f or t h ese to b e ma d e up as a d ou bl e i f a ll t he matrimonia l es are ta k en. Ma k e it c l ear i f y ou want a room w ith en suite b athroom ( con bagno ); there are different o o V V illa Franca, Positano, page 378 with great views of the plunging Amalfi coastlin e V i ll a Franca, Positano, p age 37 8 00 1 1 (TEXT BLACK plate) 7:28 PM Page 332 1 8:00 PM Page 3321 8:00 PM Page 332 1 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/6/0GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/6/0 0 0 1 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/6/01 8:00 PM Page 333 I TALY 3 3 3 333 p rice tariffs for rooms wit h s h a r ed f ac ili t i es. A s h owe r i s a doccia. M ost p laces have showers and baths combined. O THER P R A C TI C A L I NFORMA T IO N Y OU ’ L LOF T E N f in d air - conditionin g in hotels, but heatin g in an y thin g but t he de p ths of winter shoul d n ot be taken for granted. L an g ua ge Ita l ians are goo d l inguists. Eng l is h , Frenc h an d German are wi d e l y spo k en, especia ll y in tourist areas. C urrency From 1 Januar y 2002, the Euro p ean e uro ( written ‘EUR’), made u p o f 100 cents . Sh op s O pen 8 or 9am–12:30 or 1pm Mon–Sat, an d t h en f rom 3:30–7 or 8pm. Museum t imes ten d to f o ll ow t h e same p attern. In nort h ern cities, b usinesses an d some s h o p s are o p en through the day. Sho p s are closed on Sunday exce p t in tourist resorts, but usually you’ll find a p asticceria ( essentially, a delicatessen) o p en first thing in the da y fo r esse n t i als. Ti pp ing W aiters d on’t re ly on tips in t h e same way as in ot h er Euro p ean countries ( if luck y , the y will g et a share of the p rofits), but Italians usually round u p the bill. Te l ep h oning Many h ote l s , especia ll y t h e unassuming k in d , ma k e no pro f it f rom ph one ca ll s t h eir guests Stately Principe di Savoia in Milan, page 348 make – a p leasant change f rom other Euro p ean countries. As well as p ublic call boxes ( which take coins and p hone - ca r ds – ca ll ed a scheda tele - f onica ) , in most b ig towns the r e a r e T eleco m I tal i a off i ces w it h private p h one b oot h s – h an dy f or l on g - d istance ca ll s. To ma k e a p h one ca ll wit h in I ta l y, a l ways d ia l t h e f u ll pre f ix , even for a local num b er. T o call Ital y from the UK, dial 00, t hen the international dialling code 39 ; then the number , including the initial zero; fro m t he US , 001 39 . Pu bl ic h o l i d a y s 1 Januar y ; 6 Januar y ; Easter Monda y ; 25 Apri l ( Li b eration Day ) ; 1 May; 15 August ( Ferragosto, or Assumption ) ; 1 Novem b er ( A ll Saints ) ; 8 Decem b er ( Immacu l ate Conception ) ; 2 5 and 2 6 December. U S EF U L W O R DS B rea kf ast P rima co l azione Lu nch P ranzo D inne r Cen a F r ee r oo m s? Came r e libe r e? H ow much ? Quant’ è ? A singl e U na camera sin g ola A double U na camera do pp i a I T A L Y P R I CE B A N DS M OST H OT EL p r i ces vary according to whether i t’s low or high season. The m aximum p rice is dis p layed (by law) on the back of the r oo m’ s doo r . O ur price b an d s re f er as u sua l to t h e price o f a stan- d ar d d ou bl e room wit h b at h room in h i gh season. B rea kf ast is usua lly i ncluded in the p rice q uoted ; local taxes can cree p in as an extra at any time, es p ecially i n t h e hi sto ri c o r ‘ a r t ’ c i t i es. ¡ u n d er 10 5 EUR ¡¡ 1 0 5 –170 EUR ¡¡¡ 1 7 0 –23 0 EUR ¡¡¡¡ above 230 EUR T T he lobby of the Four Seasons, Milan, p age 3 48 00 1 1 (TEXT BLACK plate) 7:28 PM Page 333 1 8:00 PM Page 3331 8:00 PM Page 333 1 GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/6/0GPS_330-333_Italy_Intro_.qxd 7/6/0 0 0 1 A A B C C GPS_334-335_North Italy.qxd 7/9/01 9:05 AM Page 2 k k A A A A B B C C C C 343-344 4 34 3 4 8 - 3 4 9 3 5 4 3 4 3 352 3 3 352 3 4 2 350 350 3 5 3 35 1 340 340 351-352,35 3 3 4 7 3 4 9 354 3 4 36 2 350 351 345 345 346 346 3 45 1 00 3 4 8 368 363 3 TA IT T A T T A A A FRANCE F F CE VADUZ A Stechelberg l aad Gstaa G aa G G s Gruyère y s s es R h ô n e e y y Italy y y y Le Sépey Sé Pinerolo o hieri Ch Chie vasso as Chiv i Chiva i Ch C va a h Chivas i C Carmagnola C no Ca Casale sale sale ale rrato Monfer erra i r ncalie Monc e onca i i i eri r r r Vercelli V V V V li V V V V V Ve Rivoli voli i Biella a Susa nia n Verban ni n ia ia ni n a an a an mpex-Lac Cham a ac m Zermatt Z t t t Z Z aa as Sa s Fee s a a Sa Lo r a nz e nnero Riviera Ca n an a bio io b Cannobi i b Valnontey y Cogne mayeur may Courma may C y y Champoluc Champoluc hamp C C mp m Cioccaro ro C o Pedemonte P e Orta a San Giuia S a a S A21 A21 A26/4 A32 SS23 SS26 SS2 SS10 0 Sauze d’Oulx auze d auze d Asti Asti Zina l euil-C uil-C u C C C Cervinia C C C Breui uil eu Soriso So o So Po ano legnan Mel l M nan o Crema C C C Sondrio Sdi Da rf o Lodi Lod Lod Edolo Varenna Iseo I Bergamo erg ergamo g leo Mal l ale Maleo tagnano Monta ta g San Va lb urg a d ’ U l t im o A21 A SS10 SS38 Lago di ago di ago d Emilia milia Cas as uianell Pu u l Chiavari Ch C C Ch Pontremol i Sarzana S S Fi d enza vi Ligure ovi No o N Nov ovi zano iz Fiv zz vi Forte dei Marmi i mi C arrara Viareggio Lerici i i er L ucca Sestri i ri LevanteLevante Camogli m Cam Camo m L eivi Monterosso o a l M a r e Portofino Montevettolini li Mt Massa e M assa Cozzile C Pugna o n a no a a an o no A15 A11 A1 2 Saluzz o Mondovì Mon ì ì vì Mond ì v ovì Cuneo o San Remo Sa an Re S S Sa S an Re a a a a San R ria Imperia m mperia Acqui Terme Acqui Terme Ter rm erm A e Bagni Ba Cagnes- Cag C Cag C sur-Mer s s B er g e ggi Bordighera Finale Ligure F F telrotto Cast a C e ste C G G Garlenda G te Monfort f te Laigueglia L L L L A1 A A10 A1 SS589 SS21 SS1 S1 SS1 S SS1 S Hote l l ocation an d p a g e re f erenc e Internationa l airpor t M otorwa y Ma j or road P o n tede r a Cascina Ca Ca L ivorn o Ba r be rin o A6 6 L i gur i an S ea KEY 0 mi l es 0 kilometres 50 5 0 Certa l V V V San Gimigna San Gimigna g g Cecina cina Vo Vo Vo Vo Rosignano R Solvay olvay olvay S i C A Arno A Arn A A Ar (TEXT BLACK plate) 7:28 PM Page 2 9:05 AM Page 29:05 AM Page 2 7 11 GPS_334-335_North Italy.qxd 7/9/01GPS_334-335_North Italy.qxd 7/9/01 1 1 D E E F 2 3 4 5 1 335 GPS_334-335_North Italy.qxd 7/9/01 9:05 AM Page 3 k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k k E E 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 1 1 335 335 350 350 345 45 357 357 3 4 1 348 8 353 3 4 6 3 5 0 3 5 5 343 3 34 1 3 4 6 57 35 357 357 3 35 357 343-344 44 3 44 3 4 4 352 352 3 341 41 351 342 4 351 3 71 354 3 4 4 349 349 361 361 36 361 366-377 377 377 -3 3 377 3 3 358-360 0 0 35 0 368 3 71 363 368 - 369 A AUSTRI Y L k L Y Y L k A T T T A T T A k A INO RINO R RI R MAR A R MA MA SAN M S INO M RIN R SA A MA RI R Brunico Brunico (Bruneck) run (Bru (Br run Paternion Pat Pat n Spittal pitta l Radstadt Ra Mallnitz M Lofer f fe Matrei t in Osttirol i Sillian S S S ian H opf g arte n Kufstein i Kf n Brenner renn B n nn B B B B B waz w Sch w hw weg g Rennwe w we weg e g g Lienz z I g l s eogang Le e e Le e e e e e Le Zell am See e e e e e e e e eiligenblut He t e t en) none (Brixe Bressano rixen) ) e e Brixen) no t Ulrich) Ortisei ( tisei (St U sei (S St U rti ilio San Vig gi S INNSBRUCK R CK UCK RU R RU CK RU U U RUCK R A10 0 A13 111 165 311 167 100 I I n n I I I I n Z i Z Z l i l l l e r r S S a a a S l z l l a z z c h h c c ano n za Bolz z zan zen) e (Boze n) n) ze n) ) n) ) en) e ( Sölden Stanzach n za h Landeck L L La Nauders u au au u au Füssen F F Ehrwald wal Sa nk t Anton on Lech-Zud regenz regen rege B regen r r B B B B Ma Livigno erano rano Mer Me er r Meran) e (M M Fie Allo Sciliar F n) (Vols am Schlern) n) Lagundo undo gu Lag Ld L Lagundo undo g Lag L (Algund) g Villandro Vi Vil V Marlengo Marle Siusi Allo an) an VA A13 198 315 ma llafranca Vi fr V il rona i Ve d r di Ar co D a rf o egnago gg Le Leg g na ontagnan Mo n o a Osti g li a Edolo zaa io aci San Bonifa o S i S fa i del Benaco ri Tor ri T ri d d T ri ogngn log ne og ne ort or corta aco o o o ort t t aco o V a lb urg a l timo ua Mantu tu SS10 SS42 Feltre eltre are rza Cavar Ca a rza Ca r arz Vittorio r V a a a Gemona a na del Friuli iu i li to o Rovereto to Belluno o o o iene e Th ene e hiene e h e Rov igo ne Pordenon Pd n Bassano del B el B B a za Vicenz enz a nz za e cen n n z z scletto Ravasc sc Sauris ris Co r ti n a zo d’Ampezz d zz z p 333 3 p Verona V Ve Pergine r Pergine g g g g ldaro Caldar Cal aldar e Fiume Fiume e e e me Fiu F F Follina Fo Fo o Gargagnago o g g Redagno dagno di Sopra di S 352 no ssin n ri Tr T iss ris Tr T riss r Tri i T issin mba avaso del Tom v Ca m av Tom Sa n Os v a l do O O TRENTO TRENTO O O O RENTO O O TR O O EN E INE D DI UD D A27 A 27 A23 SS12 G ul f o f V e n ice o o riano rian rian San Floria rian San Flor n n o S S o no n o o A31 A SS13 SS1 SS51 avullo nel Pa a el Frignano Fr Fr no Mirandola M ondeno Bonde o onde Bon o en allo acava c gna Bagn a ca ac c nac gn Adria a omacchio Co C o C C C Cesenatico a C C orgo San o Borg Borgo Lorenzo n L Lo o g goro Codigo C C C o go C go Co C C Forlì rlì avenna Ra a Rimini R R R R Brisighella s a 341 1 g Modena M M M Mo M ia Emili i a a Portico na di Romagn a n 351 Sesto e Se Fi eso l e Vicchio di Mugello V icchi V V SAN MARINO O SA I SAN NA A N BOLOG N NA A1 SS325 Po o Panaro P Ad ri at i c Sea Faenza za llll o uianell Pu u lo o Po n t r e m o l i Sarzana S S Aulla A d enz a zano iz zz i Marmi i mi C arrara Massa M Viareggio ma arm Pa rm ma a Par gna oragn ora gna g g Massa e M assa Pugna o n a no a an o no A15 SS9 2 Po n tede r a Cascina Ca Ca Livorn o d’Elsa Barberino V. V. a Senigallia Se S Se S S S C hi a r a v a ll e Pontassieve o Fossombrone bro Urbino Sansepolcro se Montegridolfo o n Chianti C n Greve i Greve in i Greve i n C C erta ldo Re g ell o al di Pesa Val Va l al FIRENZE F F REN FIRENZ A14 SS3bis SS3 in Chianti hia Ch n C Castellina i C Ch in Ch i C na i in h hia C C San Gimignano San Gimignano g g Jesi Jesi Cecina cina Volterra Volterra olte Vo ello l l Città di Caste e O s l mo Pil Panicale Rosignano R R Solvay Solvay So S olvay Solvay S S i C Chianti n C n Panzano in in n n Ch n anza Pa Monteriggioni dda in Chianti add Ra R R R Ra dda da ad R A Arno A Arn A A Ar Falconara g Marittima M M M ANCONA A A A 11 (TEXT BLACK plate) 7:28 PM Page 3 9:05 AM Page 39:05 AM Page 3 7 GPS_334-335_North Italy.qxd 7/9/01GPS_334-335_North Italy.qxd 7/9/01 1 1 k k k A A B B C C 5 3 2 1 4 336 GPS_336-337_Cen-Italy.qxd 9/7/01 10:45 PM Page 2 k k kk k k k k k k k k k k k k k k kk kk kk kk k k k k kk k k kk kk A A A A B B B B C C C C 5 5 3 3 2 2 1 1 4 4 3 36 336 100 365 365 366-369 6969 6 36 6 369 66 6 6 3 360 36 364 4 367 3 7 3 36 359 362 364 4 361 367 361 366 6 6 3 7 0 366,368 66 3 7 0 59 35 59 363 63 368-369 3 366 3 5 9 - 360 359 9 371 371 371 362 36 36 365 3 6 1 363 63 364 36 368 - 369 70 3 37 3 5 9 9 9 359 59 362 62 3 6 3 64 36 364 370 0 0 0 368 0 360 360 358 - 359 358 359 371 1 71 358 358 358 358 358 361 61 363 363 3 6 3 3 37 359 364 36 35 370 371 37 1 37 Ty rr h enia n Sea H otel location an d p age referenc e International airport M otorway M a j or roa d KEY 0 miles 0 kilometres 2 5 25 ziaie Albano Laziaie aie ziai Nettuno Genzano di R G V e ll et ri Sabau Anzio SS148 P onz a Pa lm a r o l a Montefiascone n e Ci v ita Castellana Amelia A cati Frasc rasc c sca Rieti arni Narn arn ni N C erveter i Viterbo rbo rbo odi Tod T T T T T T T T Tod T oligno F Foligno F F Foligno rvieto Or O rv O Terni ella Vetre e ntefalc Mon n ato Pr P ra to Pr Asproli p Monte Castello M M d i Vi b i o o o o gi o Poggi o o o to Sc Mir te to Tivoli Tivol T Ti T oli i Rome) MA A (R RO OMA A MA ) ) ( MA ( R A A ( (R ( ( A ( ) ome ) e) O A A ROMA ( ( A1 SS3 SS5 Tevere di L Lago di di L no Br raccian n ra Orbet ello tello t etello t et t tello etello t Tarq inia rquin rq uin a Civitavecchia seto Grosse G Gr G G Gr G G sse Manciano San Lorenzo n o Nuovo o Nuov o Nuovo o M o n ta l to di Castro d Palo Laziale l e e azi ale Porto Erco to Ercole to Erco e Giglio G G G G g g Pun a Ala Punta Pun a A S cansan o A12 L Lago di i L Bolsena a Gígli o G iannutri Piombino Cecina na na Follonica Fo Castiglione Castiglione C Castiglione C C C C C e d el La go strada Roccas R ast ggibonsi g Po Po Pog P Massa Ma ri tt im a L ivorno Li o L Liv o Rosignano o Solvay S So o Pomaranc e San n n Vincenzo o o Cortona C ona Ceto on Pievescola v Chianti n in Ch Radda in a in C Radd Ch Siena S Siena S S S S Siena Bagno o Vignoni g lnuovo Castel astelnu asteln a el elnuo Ca enga Berarde de anti hian Greve in Ch hi G an ti ant i t Lecchi in Chiant i ti Lecchi in Chia i Lecchi in Chia i i t hia anti i t ntefollonico Mon n n chiello chiello Monticc Montic ch c c c ic ch c cc cc e eo g San Gimignano n g g cille Sovicill e icille Castellina in Chianti astel C Ca aste l d’Elsa Barberino Val d a al al d onteriggioni M Mo M Mo Mo M o Mo 362 3 3 eano tea Sart o tean n S rt O m b r o r r n e Lago Lago Lago T Trasimeno T erraio Por P P fe Portof P fe Por of P Capolivieri C C nti iant Panzano in Chia P hia P nt nt gnano Fontig Fti gn o e nt Mont M M t te t t te t nte M M avino an Sa a S an a av n S S an a a S Sa a nano Gimign San gn n nalunga Sin i Sinalunga i S n na el stel d Cas s de Umbro Pi oo Piano U U Pia P ro Certaldo a do enza Pien en V o l te rr a Benedetto San Be Be S A1 SS2 Elba cona L Laco co La C ittà d i C aste llo bertide mber mb Um mbe m ber mb er Sansepolcro an Ba g no d i R omagn a men men Arm m men A Assisi sisi o hi Canalicch h io one di Collazzo o n Torgiano o o no no o o n n no g g ubbio Gub ub G P a ni ca l e Spello ell GIA UG U PERU UG U U G G IA U G RUG P SS3 T T e T T v e v v r e r r nte ren Cenere C re en C e Arezzo A A gna Bevag B ag B rra Mor a a r T I I I I I I N CAN AN VATICA VATIC V N N N N N VA CA CA V 11 00 (TEXT BLACK plate) 31 PM Page 2 0:45 PM Page 20:45 PM Page :3 GPS_336-337_Cen-Italy.qxd 9/7/01 1GPS_336-337_Cen-Italy.qxd 9/7/01 1 7 1 0 D D E E F F 2 3 4 5 1 337 k GPS_336-337_Cen-Italy.qxd 9/7/01 10:45 PM Page 3 D D D D E E E E F F 2 2 3 3 1 1 337 337 kk k k kk k k kk k k k k kk 375-376 37 373 364 368 3 7 8 60 360 60 0 60 0 0 0 60 360 36 364 4 359 3 364 4 371 1 371 37 358 - 359 358 359 71 11 71 58 8 58 58 58 361 61 3 7 1 4 3 5 8 Minturno M n M Cassino C C Maddaloni M P i ed im o n te M ates e Capua p erra Acerr A A A erra A A Aversa e Caserta C C Benevento o fro Venaf e af Pr ate ll a Bojano o T e l ese Terme Terme A1 A16 NAPOLI POLI P P POLI (Na ples) (N ap (Na p) (Na aples) a a p) A30 Portici P Isc hi a Resina R Avelli no o n n o o no Avellin n o ziaie Albano Laziaie aie ziai Nettuno Genzano di Roma ma G oma Ve ll et r i P rivern o Gaeta G S ora Mondragone e e rnia r Ise er r Sabaudia ia a ia a a S ezz e Anagni Anagni gni A Ceccano an Al at r i tino Ferentin tin Anzio na Latin ina tina L n Palestrina acina Terraci errac T a acin F o rm ia Frosinone e ampobasso Ca ob a asserol Pesca P a P occaraso o Ro o ras Lucito o Castel di a Ca Ca a Sangro a S S Baia Domizia a a ia a a P o nz a San Feice S C i rceo A1 A SS148 SS88 Z annon e Ponza P a lm a r o l a zano Avezz A za Sulmona n Giulianova A t ri Roseto degli Abruzzi R R R Montesilvano Marina M Mo M Francavilla al Mare Fra Fra F L anciano Ortona O O O o Celano o Te r a m o Chieti C C Pescara Pe Pe P L’Aquila L LA P i n eto Po p oli oli Caso o Villa Santa V M ar ia Scanno S Vasto o A14 A25 A24 SS5 SS17 Pescara ara Pescara SS16 Civita ellana Amelia A cati Frasc rasc c sca arni Narn arn ni N odi Tod T T T T T T T T Tod T A sco l i Pi ce n o oligno F Foligno F F Foligno T ern i P ost a A r q uol a del Tronto o Amandola Am Am Tr i ponz o oco Antrodoc doco Ant Fiamignamo F Bo v a r a evi di Trev ev vi ntefalco Mon n eto Spole et S et Asproli p tello V i Poggio o Mirteto Scalo to Tivoli Tivol T Ti T oli i Rome) A (R MA RO OMA A MA ) ) ( MA ( R A A ( (R ( ( A ( ) ome ) e) O A A ROMA A1 A24 SS5 re el d de br d i ll o C ingo li Tolentino in Chiaravalle Falconara F Fa F ma aritti Marittima Ma ma aritti Ma im anati Reca a Civitanova Marche r C C C C C Porto San Giorgio o Po Po Fabriano b rtide U r Macerata M a Os im o mo Fermo mo o eto oret Lo et L Lo Jesi nsepolcro Muccia B a g no d i R omagna menzano eao Arm m menz A Assisi sisi o hi h an h io one ollazzo o n Torgiano o no an no o o n n no ubbio Gub ub G a l e Spello ell CONA ANCO A A CO A SS3 e San Benedetto del Tronto n S S nte ren re re en A14 Ad ri at i c Sea gna Bevag B ag B ra Y L A A T ITA I I I I I A Y Y R ieti d d N CAN A AN ICA IC N N N N N CA CA A Y ITY C ITY C Y Y Y Y ITY Y ITY C I I CI 11 00 (TEXT BLACK plate) 31 PM Page 3 0:45 PM Page 30:45 PM Page :3 GPS_336-337_Cen-Italy.qxd 9/7/01 1GPS_336-337_Cen-Italy.qxd 9/7/01 1 7 1 0 3 2 1 338 4 5 C BA B GPS_338-339 S-Italy.qxd 7/9/01 5:19 PM Page 2 k k k k k k 3 3 2 2 1 1 33 8 338 4 4 5 5 C C B B A A B B 73 372-373 237 7 7 72-373 3 7 8 3 77- 3 7 8 3 7 6 - 3 77 371 371 366-369 6 377 7 7 36 5- 366 36 4 373-375 3 375 375 3 7 6 3 7 0 3 7 5 3 7 8 3 7 8 ITAL CILY SIC SI SI SI C C zzano Avezz A A A zz Palestrina e Roccaraso R oc Villa Santa V M a ri a rascati Fr ra Fr r r Fra F Maddalena Scanno S S voli Tivo Tivo oli Rotondo R ot R ot R R ot R R (Rome) MA ROM RO R R R MA R RO A ( OM S ardini a nia Isern ern Maddaloni oni M Capua u a a a ua ua ua ra Acer A rra A ra cer ra r err Portici Po Caserta C C Benevento o o Avellino A A A A sso Campoba Campo as s s a Campo onte Piedimo o Matese M Ma Lucito uci no Bojano no nafro Ven n Torre del Greco del Gr T del G r Ghilarza Ghila nni Fon nn Cab b bras b Oristan o Positano due Gol f i O li e n a A30 A16 Conca dei M i Marin M ni p Capri a p SS88 Agropoli oli oli Ariano A o Irpino o Irpino Luce r a M el f i Rio n e r o i n V u l ture Orta Nova Ort Nova N Nova N N Orta Ebo li n Sa San S S Sa an a a San vero Seve Se Se ve ia Fogg ia a ia g g gi a i i i A3 SS90 SS16 Termoli T Te Isili L anuse i Mandas M Arbatax A14 A16 6 Eolie Or Lipari Pa n a r ea Laconi ni Dolianova D Villasimius V V V V ral al Ter Ter l l ra a rr r lba lba rra rra l l ra a rr r vino o n Gavi San vin n Ant ioco o i co Iglesia ia ias ia s Quartu Sant’ Elena n Qu n Quartu Sa Qu Q n Qu n u u Qua A l camo rese Termini Imer er Marsala M Giardini- G G G G G G Naxos axo Na anta an San Sa an Sa Sa argherita arg Mar M M Marg Ma Panare a Gangi gi SS131 1 A18 A19 A19 9 9 A29dir SS189 SS F l F F u m e n d o d s a L í oa r i Vu l cano S a l ina S ici ly Sapri A3 S a n Misterbianco M M M Mi is M Mist ist Mist M M i Mis M M Acireale A A A A A A Giarre G G G G G Catania Catania C C Maratea Pa r Piazza Armerina A P P Caltagirone t Calta t Caltag t C I spic a Augusta Ragusa g Siracusa S S S S S St r a i t of M essina 0 mile s 0 kilometres 4 0 4 0 0 mi l es 0 kilometres 4 0 40 Mazara M M d el Vallo del V de d de el V Va Campobello obello llo ob ob llo ob di Mazara Porto Empedocle l cle l ocle l cle l ocle l e Licata Lercara Friddi E nn a C Comiso o C C C o Castelvetrano st C Modica d Gela a a a A19 1 A29 SS417 Malta Channe l (TEXT BLACK plate ) PM Page 2 9 PM Page 29 PM Page 2 2 9 9 11 GPS_338-339 S-Italy.qxd 7/9/01 5:1GPS_338-339 S-Italy.qxd 7/9/01 5:1 3 9 1 [...]... and white, with antique furniture, silver and fresh flowers Long corridors lead to well-furnished bedrooms with king-size beds The fine old park contains a pool and fitness centre Daily minibus to Venice Gasthof Tschötscherhof The narrow road from Siusi leads through meadows, orchards and vineyards to this idyllic chalet farmhouse Its white painted façade is almost obscured by clambering vines and... shady terrace on which to dine in fine weather It’s no penance to eat indoors, however: the dining room is charming, decorated with delicate 18th-century frescoes The food is delightful too The bedrooms are in an adjacent old building N Via Nino Costa 4, 10123 Torino Map p334 A3 § 011 561 19 09 ` 011 561 18 06 $ reservation@ hotelvictoria-torino.com 0 b Rooms 106 z ¢ Never / AE, DC, MC, V ¡¡ N Via Masieri... and muchpraised cuisine (Michelin star) is the main draw to this very individual establishment, the creation of Antonella Scardovi and Valentino Parmiani Meals are served in an attractive beamed dining room, with the homely kitchen open to view Bedrooms are lacey and Edwardian N Klughammer 100, 39052 Caldaro, Bolzano Map p335 D2 § 0471 96 00 93 ` 0471 96 01 55 $ pensionleuchtenburg@iol.it 0 b,l ,d Rooms... $ info@badratzes.it 0 b,l ,d Rooms 45 S ∂ ¢ Apr to May, Oct to Nov / MC, V ¡¡ T O R I N O (T U R I N ) TORRI DEL B E NAC O Turin Palace Dating from 1872, the city’s most impressive hotel, with sumptuous, modernized rooms decorated with antiques Europa Happy, welcoming and good value 1950s villa decorated in the style of the period Pleasant setting, and shady terrace for dining N Via Sacchi 8, 10128 Torino.Map... with heavenly views Albergo del Sole This fine inn, noted for its simple but delicious regional dishes, is now run by the son and daughter of Franco Colombani who created it The building displays the same robust restraint as the cooking The three bedrooms are above the dining room They have individual high points and good bathrooms and are traditionally furnished N Via Regina 81, Tremezzo, 22016 Lenno,... mansion, bedrooms have been renovated to a good standard with inlaid wood floors and antiqued mirrors The public rooms are plainer Bucintoro This simple, old-fashioned, family-run pensione has fabulous views from every room Some, such as Nos 1 and 11, have windows overlooking both San Giorgio Maggiore and San Marco, and are much in demand by artists No 4 has a large bed, airy curtains, and the lagoon... isabellaformentini@tiscalinet.it 0 b Rooms 16 S z ∂ ¢ mid-Nov to end Feb / AE, DC, MC, V ¡¡¡ SAN VIGILIO Locanda San Vigilio An air of exclusivity pervades this hotel, set idyllically on its own lush Lake Garda headland Right on the lake is the elegant dining room, with ceramic stove and sideboards displaying plates and bottles You can also eat on a flowery arched veranda Bedrooms in the main house are... This charming hotel with a warm, personal atmosphere is distinguished by its pristine white façade and pretty yellow awnings Signor Pernigotti devotes himself wholeheartedly to his hotel and its guests, and provides all sorts of unexpected extras (including bicycles) Excellent buffet breakfast served on the terrace Bad Ratzes Set in a clearing surrounded by dense forest, this family-orientated hotel... ∂ ¢ Dec to mid-Feb / AE, DC, MC, V ¡¡¡ P O RTO F I N O R E DAG N O DI SOPRA Splendido One of Italy’s most famous hotels, dripping in chic, where languid elegance is the order of the day – as well as a deep pocket for paying the bill It is set on the hillside over the harbour, with a wonderfully sited swimming pool and a glitzy terrace on which to see and be seen Zirmerhof The dimly lit hall with intricate... usually head for historic Villa d Este Built in 1568 by Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio, it saw many illustrious visitors before becoming a hotel in 1873 Its glittering interior and romantic grounds are the setting for many sporting and leisure activities The food is suitably sumptuous Locanda del Sant’ Uffizio Its position in the Monferrato hills and the willing but informal service make this converted 15th-century . del B el B B a za Vicenz enz a nz za e cen n n z z scletto Ravasc sc Sauris ris Co r ti n a zo d Ampezz d zz z p 333 3 p Verona V Ve Pergine r Pergine g g g g ldaro Caldar Cal aldar e Fiume Fiume e e e me Fiu F F Follina Fo Fo o Gargagnago o g g Redagno dagno di Sopra di S 352 no ssin n ri Tr T iss ris Tr T riss r Tri i T issin mba avaso del Tom v Ca m av Tom Sa n Os v a l do O O TRENTO TRENTO O O O RENTO O O TR O O EN E INE D DI UD D A27 A 27 A23 SS12 G ul f . a modern g rand tour . Its outstanding p laces to stay include a p alace in the hill s outside town. For fewer crowds , head for the walled t owns suc h as Lucca, or g o east towar d s Um b ria. setting. F OOD A N D D RINK E AT ING OU T i s one o f t h e o b vious p l easures o f a h o l i d a y in Ita ly , an d t h e r e g iona l d i ff erences a dd to t h e ex p erience. In d ee d ,