Iceland ravel Adventures ravel Adventures ravel Adventures n The spectacular glaciers, waterfalls, geysers, birdlife, pony trekking, river rafting, skiing – this guide tells you how to see and do it all, from Reykjavik’s nightlife to the dramatic West- ern Fjords and table-top mountains to the rich bird life of Lake Myvatn. n For every town and village, there are reviews of the best places to stay, eat and drink, both on and off the beaten track. n The authors have been visiting here for years and know how to travel on a budget. They share important inside tips. n All about local heritage festivals; traditional crafts still practiced; farming vacations; wildlife watching and the famed Northern Lights. n Iceland is the world’s best place to live, according to the latest UN ranking of 175 nations. Life expectancy, education levels, cul- tural attractions and real per capita income are extraordinary. Reykjavik is among the cleanest and safest cities in the world. The environment is pollution-free – even the rivers and streams are safe to drinkfromandfoods are free ofhormones and pesticides. Your journey, your dream, your life – let Hunter be your guide! Hunter Publishing, Inc. 30 Mayfield Ave Edison NJ 08817 US $22.99 ISBN 978-1-58843-672-6 www.hunterpublishing.com Where to Stay Sightseeing Festivals & Nightlife Food & Drink Hiking & Biking Shopping HUNTER H U NTER HUNTER HUNTER TRAVEL GUIDES TRAVEL GUIDES Iceland Don & Marjorie Young THE BEST PLACES TO STAY & EAT WHERETOPLAY,PARTY&SHOP WHALE-WATCHING, FISHING, ECO-TOURS, HIKING & BOATING n n n n THE BEST PLACES TO STAY & EAT WHERETOPLAY,PARTY&SHOP WHALE-WATCHING, FISHING, ECO-TOURS, HIKING & BOATING n n n n ra vel Adventures ra vel Adventures ra vel Adventures 9 781 588 436726 99225 HUNTER H U NTER dventures Travel Icelan d Iceland Don & Marjorie Young HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 30 Mayfield Ave, Edison, NJ 08817 % 800-255-0343 / fax 732-417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com E-mail comments@hunterpublishing.com IN CANADA: Ulysses Travel Publications 4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec, Canada H2W 2M5 % 514-843-9882 ext. 2232 / fax 514-843-9448 IN THE UNITED KINGDOM: Windsor Books International 5, Castle End Park, Castle End Rd, Ruscombe Berkshire, RG10 9XQ England, % 01189-346-367/fax 01189-346-368 ISBN 978-1-58843-672-6 © 2008 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Cover photo: Icelandic horses (Alberto Roseo) Maps on pages 116, 164, 212, 214, 243, 262, 281, 286, 332, 348, 353, 372, 377, 382, 407, 412, 449, 451, 476, 478 courtesy of Nordic Adven- ture Travel (www.nat.is). Index by Nancy Wolff All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other- wise, without the written permission of the publisher. This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or ill- ness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of informa- tion in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from neg- ligence, accident or any other cause. Contents Land of Fire & Ice 1 History 2 The Government 8 The Economy 8 The Land, Flora & Fauna 10 The Weather 19 The People & Their Culture 21 Travel Information 34 What to Pack 35 Getting Here 36 When You Leave 37 Getting Around 38 Accommodations 46 Banks & Post Offices 49 Cell Phones & Computers 50 Staying Safe 51 Police 52 Hospitals 52 Icelandic Phrases 53 Reykjavik – The City of Surprises 55 The City Itself 59 Government & Business 63 What to See 66 Museums 67 Galleries 71 Theater 72 Music 73 Lighthouses 74 Other Sights 75 Things to Do 76 Basketball 76 Biking 77 Boating 78 Freshwater Fishing 79 Glima Contests 80 Golf 81 Handball 82 Hiking 82 Horseback Riding 83 Hunting 84 Ice Hockey 84 Jeep Safaris 85 Saltwater Fishing 85 Skiing 85 Soccer 86 Swimming 86 Tours 87 Regularly-Scheduled Outdoor Events 87 Shopping 90 Where to Stay 93 Hotels 94 Apartments 99 Guesthouses 99 Hostels 101 Campsites 101 Sleeping Bag Accommodations 102 Where to Eat 102 Nightlife 109 Nearby Attractions 113 West Iceland 115 Akranes 119 Husafell 125 Mosfellsbaer 126 Reykholt 130 Borgarnes 133 Hellissandur 142 Day-Trips from Hellisandur 145 Olafsvik 146 Arnarstapi 150 Budir 151 Grundarfjordur 152 Stykkisholmur 155 Budardalur Area 159 Eiriksstadir 162 West Fjords 163 Patreksfjordur 168 Reykholar 171 Kroksfjardarnes 172 Hnjotur 173 Talknafjordur 173 Bildudalur 175 Arnarfjord 177 Lighthouses 177 Thingeyri 180 Flateyri 182 Sudureyri 183 Isafjordur 185 Hnifsdalur 193 Bolungarvik 193 Hornstrandir Wilderness Park 195 Sudavik 198 Drangsnes 199 Djupavik 200 Gjogur 203 ii n Contents Holmavik 203 Thidriksvalladalur 206 Strandir 207 Nordurfjordur 207 Hvallatur 208 More Sights Worth Seeing in the West Fjords 209 North Iceland 213 Laugarbakki 214 Hvammstangi 215 Hindisvik 218 Borgarviki 218 Thingeyrar 218 Blonduos 219 Vikur 222 Skagastrond 223 Glerhallavik 226 Varmahlid 226 Reykir 228 Saudarkrokur 228 Mt. Tindastoll 231 Holar 231 Hofsos 231 Siglufjordur 233 Lighthouses in North Iceland 237 Olafsfjordur 241 Dalvik 243 Akureyri 247 Grenivik 260 Gjogur 262 Husavik (Husavikurbaer) 263 Lake Myvatn 269 Reykjahlid 271 Skutustadir 272 Jokulsargljufur National Park 276 Kopasker 278 Raufarhöfn 279 Thorshofn 280 Bakkafjordur (Hofn) 282 Vopnafjordur 283 East Iceland 285 Husey 287 What to See & Do 287 Activities 287 Where to Stay 288 Egilsstadir 288 Hjaltastadahreppur 297 Bakkagerdi 297 Hallormsstadur 299 Seydisfjordur 303 Contents n iii Reydarfjordur 308 Eskifjordur 310 Neskaupstadur 314 Budir 319 Breiddalsvik 320 Djupivogur 322 Hofn 325 South Iceland 333 Skaftafell National Park 334 Oraefi 335 Kirkjubaejarklaustur 335 Landmannalaugar 340 Vik 344 Skogar 346 Thorsmork National Park 351 Hvolsvollur 352 Fljotsdalur 355 Hella 355 Selfoss 358 Skalholt 363 Floi Nature Reserve 364 Haukadalur 366 Thingvellir National Park 367 Geysir 370 Gullfoss 370 Stokkseyri 371 Gaulverjabaer 373 Eyrarbakki 373 Kaldadarnes 375 Fludir 375 Laugaras 377 Hveragerdi 378 Reykjanes Peninsula 381 Thorlakshofn 382 Krysuvikurberg 383 Grindavik 384 Reykjanes 389 Hafnir 389 Sandgerdi 391 Gardur 392 Keflavik 394 Njardvik 398 Vogastapi 400 Vogar 400 Hafnarfjordur 402 Gardabaer 407 Kopavogur 409 The Interior 413 iv n Contents Mountains 414 Askja 415 Bardarbunga 416 Baula 416 Blahnjukur 417 Breidamerkurfjall 417 Einhyrningur 418 Esja 418 Eyjafjoll 418 Grimsvotn 419 Hekla 419 Hengill 420 Herdubreid 421 Hestfjall 422 Hlodufell 422 Hofsjokull 422 Hrafntinnusker 422 Hvannadalshnjukur 423 Ingolfsfjall 424 Katla 424 Keilir 425 Kerlingarfjoll 425 Kirkjufell 425 Kistufell 426 Krafla 426 Kristinartindar 427 Krossanesborgir 427 Kverkfjoll 427 Laki 428 Landmannalaugar 429 Lomagnupur 429 Petursey 429 Skjaldbreidur 429 Snaefell 430 Vordufell 431 Glaciers 431 Bruarjokull 432 Drangajokull 432 Eiriksjokull 432 Eyjabakkajokull 432 Hofsjokull 433 Lambatungnajokull 433 Langjokull 433 Mydalsjokull 434 Snaefellsjokull 435 Solheimajokull 435 Torfajokull 436 Tungnafellsjokull 436 Vatnajokull 436 Rivers, Waterfalls, & Lakes 437 Contents n v Rivers 437 Waterfalls 440 Lakes 445 Hiking 450 Arnarvatsheidi Moorlands 450 Eyjafjallajokull Glacier 450 Fjallabak Nature Reserve 451 Floi Nature Reserve Bird Sanctuary 452 Hagavatn 453 Sulur 454 Thorsmork 454 More 455 Exploring the Interior by Bus or by Car 456 Mountain Biking 466 Skiing 468 Snowboarding 469 Hunting 469 Tours 470 The Islands 477 Westman Islands 477 Ellidaey 480 Heimey 481 Smaeyjar 489 Surtsey 489 Breidafjordur Bay 490 Akureyjar 491 Brokey 492 Flatey 492 Hoskuldsey 494 Klakkeyjar 495 Oxney 495 Svidnur 495 Drangey 496 Eldey 497 Geldinganes Island 498 Gjardeyjar Island 498 Grimsey 499 Gvendareyjar 503 Hrisey 503 Malmey 505 Papey 506 Petursey Island 507 Skrudur Island 508 Thorisolmi 508 Videy 508 Vigur 510 Grotta Island 510 Index 511 vi n Contents Foreword W here in the world can you find fantastic scenery that includes 3,100 miles of gorgeous coastline, a host of lakes and rivers, geysers, numerous waterfalls, roughly 100 volcanoes, and the largest glacier in all of Europe? Where could you find a country that enjoys some of the purest water and cleanest air in all the world? Acountry that features unparalleled opportunities to enjoy birdwatching, riding among the whales on a ferry, biking, hiking, camping, fishing, hunting, golfing, swim- ming, touring the mountains in a Jeep, pony trekking, river raft- ing and then where you can end your day with a wonderful dinner, followed by some of the most unbelievable nightlife on earth? Obviously, we’re talking about Iceland, one of the most exciting countries in the world – yet a country that was virtually unknown to tourists prior to World War II. Consider the amazing history of this fabulous country, settled by the Vikings more than 1,100 years ago. Erik the Red, one of the early Viking settlers, later discovered Greenland, and his son Leifur (better known as Leif) Eriksson, went on to discover North America 500 years before the arrival of Christopher Columbus. Healthy, Wealthy & Wise As descendants of the Vikings and the Celts, Icelandic men and women are among the healthiest, most attractive people on earth. They tend to be tall, blond-haired, and blue-eyed. In its March 2000 issue, Vogue magazine announced that “the women look like either Uma Thurman or Patsy Kensit, and every third man resembles Brad Pitt.” During the 1980s, two Icelandic women were selected as Miss World just three years apart. n 7 [...]... assumed control of Iceland In 1550, the last Catholic bishop in Iceland had been beheaded, and Denmark’s King Christian III began to impose Lutheranism on all of his subjects By 1662, the law that prevented Iceland from trading with other countries had been broadened, and Icelanders also were forbidden to trade with other regions of the island itself In 1627, 3,000 pirates attacked Iceland and kidnaped... and leave Iceland during October and November Seen almost everywhere in Iceland are the mallard, golden plover, whimbrel, redsnak, black-headed gull, Arctic tern, meadow pipit, and wheatear The Weather Many potential visitors reject the idea of going to Iceland because of its name In point of fact, it would have been more accurate to have called Iceland Greenland and to have called Greenland Iceland. .. established a union between Iceland and Norway in 1262 It later proved to be a bad decision Finally, Things Began to Improve n 7 Norway’s King Haakon seized control of Iceland and put a debilitating tax upon the people that resulted in a period of severe poverty That situation prevailed for 600 years, and Iceland s Althing collapsed In 1389, Norway passed a law that prevented Iceland from trading with... Halldor Laxness, an Icelandic novelist, received the Nobel Prize for Literature In 1972, Reykjavik hosted the world chess championship between Bobby Fischer and Boris Spassky In 1989, Iceland s handball team downed Poland to win the World Men’s Championship, and in 1991, Iceland s bridge team won the World Team Championship Entrepreneur Bjorgolfur Thor Bjorgolfsson recently became Iceland s first billionaire... occupation forces left Iceland in 1946, Iceland joined the United Nations In 1949, it joined NATO, and a year later, it became a part of the Council of Europe In 1951, a defense agreement was signed with the United States That commitment lasted until September 2006, when the United States finally withdrew its military forces from Iceland 8 n The Government The Government Citizens in Iceland acquire the... political affairs Did You Know? In the Icelandic language, the word Aisland@ is pronounced AIceland,@ explaining the many times a visitor will come across the word but fail to understand its Icelandic meaning Reykjavik has a number of Sister Cities, including Seattle, Washington; Winnipeg, Canada; Kingston Upon Hull, England; and Vilnius, Lithuania The Economy Iceland s economy is heavily dependent... Arctic Circle Iceland rises to an ave r age h e i gh t o f 1,640 feet, but its highest point, Hvannad a l s h n j u k u r, i s a 6,925-foot mountain Beneath the mountain is Vatnajokull, the largest glacier in all of Europe Geologically, Iceland is one of the youngest Iceland from space bodies of land in the world 2 n History History Fire and ice There could not be a better description of Iceland Smoke... April But snow is not common in Iceland and it rarely stays on the ground for more than a couple of days The all-time high temperature in Reykjavik, set in 2004, was just 76.6°F, while the record low temperature, set in 1918, was -12.1° – not too bad by most standards For most travelers, the best time to visit Iceland is from May to November Did You Know? The people of Iceland quote the temperature in... effect On December 1, 1918, Iceland regained its independence as a sovereign state while remaining under the control of the Danish crown When World War II began, Denmark was occupied by Germany in 1940, and Britain sent some of its militia to Iceland to help protect the North Atlantic A year later, that responsibility passed to the United States On June 17, 1944, the present Icelandic republic was founded... a new home in Iceland was the famous Erik the Red (so named for his red hair) Erik landed in Iceland in 960, after being forced out of Norway for taking part in several murders He married into a wealthy family, acquired a large farm near Breidafjordur, and became a father to Leif in 970 However, around 982, Erik was convicted of committing two additional murders and was forced to leave Iceland He convinced . FISHING, ECO-TOURS, HIKING & BOATING n n n n ra vel Adventures ra vel Adventures ra vel Adventures 9 781 588 436726 99225 HUNTER H U NTER dventures Travel Icelan d Iceland Don & Marjorie Young HUNTER. Iceland ravel Adventures ravel Adventures ravel Adventures n The spectacular glaciers, waterfalls, geysers, birdlife, pony trekking,. Nightlife Food & Drink Hiking & Biking Shopping HUNTER H U NTER HUNTER HUNTER TRAVEL GUIDES TRAVEL GUIDES Iceland Don & Marjorie Young THE BEST PLACES TO STAY & EAT WHERETOPLAY,PARTY&SHOP WHALE-WATCHING,