[...]... no more haunting sight within China s modern political boundaries, and nothing else which speaks so clearly of the otherness of Tibet See p 761 • The Forbidden City (Bêij∫ng): Preeminent among the surviving complexes of ancient buildings in China, the former residence of the emperors needs far more time 6 CHAPTER 1 THE BEST OF CHINA than most tours give it See “The Best China Experiences,” earlier in... of the Taklamakan Desert which seem completely remote from China The Silk Routes are littered with alien monuments and tombs, and with magnificent cavetemple sights such as D∆nhuáng, which demonstrate China s import of foreign religions and aesthetics as much as the wealth generated by its exports of silk EASTERN CENTRAL CHINA Eastern central China, between the Yellow River (Huáng Hé) and the 15 Yángzî... deception, and provides no truly reliable official sources of information either within China or via its overseas operations The branches of the China National Tourism Administration in foreign countries are called China National Tourist Offices Nominally nonprofit, they used to be little more than agents for the state-owned China International Travel Service (CITS), but they now offer links to a variety... Hong Kong or mainland China ATMS There are many ATMs in China, but with few exceptions as yet, only a selection of Bank of China machines accept foreign cards Check the back of your ATM card for the logos of the Cirrus (www.mastercard.com), PLUS (www.visa.com), and Aeon (www americanexpress.com), systems, and then contact the relevant company for a list of working ATM locations in China Bêij∫ng and Shànghâi... vital that you read this chapter carefully The way you’re used to traveling, even in many other developing nations, doesn’t apply in China Much of the advice out there on travel in China is far from wise What’s good advice in the rest of the world can be the worst advice in China, and without absorbing what’s below, some of the rest of this guide may seem inscrutable So put down your preconceptions, and... in China, hordes of tourists notwithstanding Rise before the sun, then watch its golden rays filter through the gray winding streets, lighting up the dark wooden houses See chapter 11 2 CHAPTER 1 THE BEST OF CHINA • Walking on the Great Wall from J∫nsh≈nlîng to S∫mâtái (Bêij∫ng): The Great Wall, winding snakelike through the mountains, was meant to be walked This magnificent 3-hour hike follows China s... nine dynasties, K≈if√ng capital of six, and Nánj∫ng capital of eight The hometown of China s most important philosopher, Confucius, is here, along with several of China s holiest mountains, notably Tài Sh≈n and Huáng Sh≈n, as well as that watery equivalent of the Great Wall, the Grand Canal SHÀNGHÂI Shànghâi is the city China boosters love to cite as representing the country as a whole, but it in fact... Guìzh∂u, Guângx∫, and Hâinán Island, this region is home to some of China s most spectacular mountain scenery and three of Asia’s mightiest rivers, resulting in some of the most breathtaking gorges and lush river valleys in the country Even more appealing is the fact that this region is easily the most ethnically diverse in China Twenty-six of China s 56 officially recognized ethnic groups can be found in... Best of China compiled and edited by Peter Neville-Hadley I t’s unfortunate for visitors to China that however impressive the country’s sights, they are often dwarfed by the hype surrounding them The Chinese travel industry is determined to shuttle tour groups around a limited shortlist of both truly magnificent sights and merely wannabe jaw-droppers, selling a highly imaginary picture-book China so... macau@aviation andtourism.co.nz) 3 Entry Requirements & Customs some small areas require an extra perENTRY REQUIREMENTS MAINLAND CHINA VISAS All visitors to mainland China must acquire a visa in advance In general, visas are not granted at the border Visitors to mainland China must have a valid passport with at least 6 months’ validity and two blank pages remaining (you may get away with just one blank . peaks, is known for its sea of clouds, strangely shaped rocks, unusual pine trees, and bubbling hot springs—four features that have inspired countless painters and poets for over 1,500 years. See p traditions. See p. 198. See also Chéngdé s Bìshû Sh≈nzhu≈ng and its Eight Outer Temples, in “The Best Mansions & Palaces,” above. CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF CHINA 8 7 The Best Markets • Kashgar Sunday. Market once was. Jewelers pore over gem- stones, blacksmiths busy them- selves shoeing horses and repairing farm tools, blanket makers beat cotton balls, rat-poison sellers proudly demonstrate the