Russia A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Anna Pavlovshaya cs! russia.indd 1 1/27/11 12:27:23 PM A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Russia Anna Pavlovskaya CS! Russia.indb i 3/14/11 10:58 AM This 2nd edition published in 2011 by: Marshall Cavendish Corporation 99 White Plains Road Tarrytown, NY 10591-9001 www.marshallcavendish.us First published in 2007 by Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, reprinted 2008. Copyright © 2007, 2011 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300, fax: (65) 6285 4871. E-mail: genref@sg.marshallcavendish.com The publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book, and specifi cally disclaims any implied warranties or merchantability or fi tness for any particular purpose, and shall in no event be liable for any loss of profi t or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Other Marshall Cavendish Offi ces: Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited. 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196  Marshall Cavendish International. PO Box 65829, London EC1P 1NY, UK  Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand  Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited IISBN 13: 978-0-7614-6056-5 Please contact the publisher for the Library of Congress catalog number Printed in Singapore by Times Printers Pte Ltd Photo Credits: All black and white photos by the author except pages 120–121, 164–165, 204–205, 220–221 and 224–225 (Photolibrary). All colour photos from Photolibrary except pages l-m from Inmagine.com  Cover photo: Getty Images All illustrations by TRIGG CS! Russia.indb ii 3/14/11 10:58 AM ABOUT THE SERIES Culture shock is a state of disorientation that can come over anyone who has been thrust into unknown surroundings, away from one’s comfort zone. CultureShock! is a series of trusted and reputed guides which has, for decades, been helping expatriates and long-term visitors to cushion the impact of culture shock whenever they move to a new country. Written by people who have lived in the country and experienced culture shock themselves, the authors share all the information necessary for anyone to cope with these feelings of disorientation more effectively. The guides are written in a style that is easy to read and covers a range of topics that will arm readers with enough advice, hints and tips to make their lives as normal as possible again. Each book is structured in the same manner. It begins with the first impressions that visitors will have of that city or country. To understand a culture, one must first understand the people—where they came from, who they are, the values and traditions they live by, as well as their customs and etiquette. This is covered in the first half of the book. Then on with the practical aspects—how to settle in with the greatest of ease. Authors walk readers through topics such as how to find accommodation, get the utilities and telecommunications up and running, enrol the children in school and keep in the pink of health. But that’s not all. Once the essentials are out of the way, venture out and try the food, enjoy more of the culture and travel to other areas. Then be immersed in the language of the country before discovering more about the business side of things. To round off, snippets of basic information are offered before readers are ‘tested’ on customs and etiquette of the country. Useful words and phrases, a comprehensive resource guide and list of books for further research are also included for easy reference. CS! Russia.indb iii 3/14/11 10:58 AM CONTENTS Introduction vi Acknowledgements ix Map of Russia x Chapter 1 First Impressions 1 The Mysterious Russian Soul 2 Acquaintance with Russia at Home 5 Arriving in Russia 7 First Impressions 12 Chapter 2 Overview of Land and History 32 The Russian Regions: Unity in Diversity 33 Moscow—the Heart of Russia 37 Saint Petersburg 43 The Russian Village 46 The Peculiarities of the Russian State 50 ‘Master of the Russian Land’ 57 The Baptism of Russia 61 The Role of Religion in Russian Life 63 Different Views of Russia’s Development 68 Russia Between the East and the West 71 The Attitude of Russians to the Outside World 72 Russia and the Rest of the World 77 Chapter 3 The National Character 92 The Russian Character Viewed from Outside 93 Modern Western Guidebooks to Russia 96 Collectivism 100 The Attitude to Money and Riches 105 The Attitude to the Law 107 The Attitude to Time 109 Spoken and Written Word 109 Main Features of the Russian Character 111 Chapter 4 Traditions of Social Intercourse 116 Interaction with Friends and Colleagues 119 The Attitude to Women 122 Fashion and the Attitude Towards It 124 The Attitude to Foreigners 126 What Shall We Talk About? 127 Social Traditions and Etiquette 128 Alternative Lifestyle 133 Chapter 5 Settling In 134 Formalities 135 Home and Family 138 Living in Russia 143 Specifi c Features of Everyday Life 145 Education 147 Financial Matters 159 Health 160 Shops and Purchases 161 Transportation 166 Means of Communication 168 Tips for Foreigners in Russia 169 Chapter 6 The Russian Feast 172 The Traditions of Russian Hospitality 173 Eating Habits 175 Banquets and Business Receptions 179 An Invitation to a Russian Home 180 CS! Russia.indb iv 3/14/11 10:58 AM Restaurants and Other Public Eating Places 183 Traditional Russian Cuisine 186 Drinks 188 Russian Tea Drinking 193 Chapter 7 Culture and Travel 196 The Russian Culture 197 The Russian Holidays 206 Travelling in Russia 211 Places of Interest 217 Sights 227 Souvenirs 230 Free Time 232 Chapter 8 Learning the Language 236 The Russian Language 237 Russian as a Language of Intercultural Communication 240 The Russian Alphabet 242 Learning Russian 243 Addressing in Russian 245 Non-verbal Communication 247 Chapter 9 Business in Russia 248 The Russian Businessman 249 Business Etiquette 253 Best Time for a Visit 255 Business Negotiations 256 The Main Features of Russian Business 267 Chapter 10 Fast Facts on Russia 270 Famous People 275 Acronyms 282 Culture Quiz 284 Do’s and Don’ts 290 Glossary 292 Resource Guide 295 Further Reading 304 About the Author 306 Index 307 CS! Russia.indb v 3/14/11 10:58 AM vi INTRODUCTION Writing a guide is difficult. Writing a guide about Russia is next to impossible. An unenviable but noble task of any guide to any country is to thoroughly acquaint the reader with its history, culture, way of life, traditions, customs and sights, as well as to give useful information about various aspects of life. A guide must be true and specific. It must encourage a traveller to start for the unknown. It must serve like a compass in a strange world. All this is extremely difficult in the case of Russia. Life here is changing so rapidly and drastically that any guide will become outdated before it is published. Finding one’s bearings with its help is like using a compass in a region of iron deposit. Only one thing in Russia is changing slowly and reluctantly— it is the Russian people. It is about them, their character, mentality, habits, likes and dislikes, their manner of behaviour and communication, that is worth writing about nowadays. The main principle that any foreign traveller setting out for Russia must bear in mind is that it is the Russian people that make Russia. In his days, Joseph Stalin—the father of peoples as he was called in the country—introduced a motto still widely spread and used in Russia: everything depends on the personnel. Any leader in Russia knows how true it is. Not infrequently, some hopeless projects work thanks to the enthusiasm of personnel, while very promising ones fail because of wrong partners. Find the right person or a group of people and your problem is settled. It will work by itself. Times change, black becomes white and vice versa, ‘those who were nobodies have become somebodies’ as the revolutionary hymn had it, and state and ideological values have been replaced with their exact opposites. In the space of one century, Russia has on three occasions made fundamental changes not only to the state system but to life as a whole. But whichever system they were living under—an autocratic system, developed socialism or undeveloped capitalism—the people have remained the same, amazingly saving their traditions, ideas and relations to the surrounding world. Furthermore, slowly but surely, they are refashioning the latest new world in their own way, and in such a way that it is starting to look very much like the old world. CS! Russia.indb vi 3/14/11 10:58 AM vii As it is impossible to foresee all the difficulties, especially while the social life is changing so rapidly, one ought to rely on personal contacts and communication, on which the whole country depends. While a whole lot of services is at one’s disposal in Western cultures, in Russia, all of these may be quite successfully provided by just one person: an acquaintance, your business partner’s wife, a concierge in your block of flats, a woman on duty in your hotel, an old woman who lives next door, etc. This kind of people, if they like you, will share anything with you—from their richest experience to some cash to borrow. Feminists will be glad to know that under the circumstances, it is women who are most useful, efficient and reliable, particularly in all kinds of down-to-earth problems. Like heroines of Russian folk tales, they save the hero from the most dangerous situations with the help of a magic mirror or a clew. Don’t be afraid of coming to Russia. Many foreigners who have visited come back to Russia again and again, finding in this world something which is lacking in their own. Russia is a country of enormous scale and a successful business here often opens up more possibilities than in other countries. Not surprisingly, the head of Coca-Cola in Moscow, when asked by a journalist whether he wanted to go home, answered that he did not want to as it is much more interesting in Russia than in other countries and each day you have to take up new challenges. Russia is a country with a startling culture full of works of art and historical monuments. Any contact with them will remain in your memory for a long time. And, if you are lucky, you may eventually get to know and make friends with the Russian people and try out their legendary hospitality and heartfelt openness for yourself. And even if none of the above meets with success, there is always Russian nature, glorified in Russia’s famous classical literature and which has still retained its God-given freshness (not least ‘thanks’ to the decline in agriculture). Before setting off on this journey through the enigmatic Russian soul, there is one other word of advice. It is well known that your own state of mind is extremely important when travelling. If you arrive stressed and with doubts, expecting CS! Russia.indb vii 3/14/11 10:58 AM viii unpleasant moments and dirty tricks at every step, then something will surely happen to you. If your soul is clear of all obvious aversions to the surrounding world, then everything will probably be fine and neither bad weather, nor everyday annoyances nor foreign traditions will spoil your mood. Writing a book that includes everything about contact with Russians would be extremely difficult. Russia, like any other country, has many different facets. Americans like the scale of things in Russia and the Russian soul, but are irritated by the lack of service. The English are drawn to Russian culture, but the inability to stand in a queue makes them indignant. The Germans like Russian hospitality, but do not welcome the dirty streets and public places. Italians like Russian friendship, but are not comfortable with the familiarity. The Chinese like the Russian countryside, but cannot understand why things are done so slowly. In a word, everybody has their own Russia. But an attempt to generalise and write some sort of overview of the main characteristics of Russian life is, of course, possible. This work is unique because of the information that it brings together. Its author is Russian, a historian and specialist in inter-cultural studies. At the same time, a wide range of material—from surveys to diaries and memoirs—from foreign (not Russian) sources has also been included. This has made it possible to do something which it is very unusual: join together the views of both the internal (Russian) and external (foreign) worlds. CS! Russia.indb viii 3/14/11 10:58 AM ix First of all, I must acknowledge the influence of my parents on all my education, books and researches. My mother, professor of Linguistics Svetlana Ter-Minasova, and my late father, professor of Russian Literature Valentin Fatushchenko, have always been more that just good and caring parents. I consider them to be my colleagues, advisers and friends. My brother Andrei (a historian and film director) and my sister Maria (a philosopher) have always provided me with great support. I would like to thank my friends and colleagues from Moscow State University with whom we spent lots of time travelling around Russia and discussing the Russian national character, its ways and peculiarities, among them Nikolai Borisov, Irina and Andrei Rootsinsky, Tatiana Ivanova, Andrei Zabrovsky, Vladimir Elistratov, Anna Skorik, Tatiana Tarabanova, Elena Zhbankova, Natalia Ivannikova, Galina Smirnova and the late Ivan Kruglov. This book would not be possible without help (although often unconscious) of my friends from different countries of the world: Peter Czap (USA), Keith Rawson-Jones (UK), Sebastian Andre Zelechowski (France, my brother- in-law), Anna and Michel Rentien (France), Judith Walker (UK), Elisabeth Millar (UK), Michael Pushkin (UK), Marvin Loflin (USA), Katia Shtefan (USA), Judy and Eugene Zeb Kozlowski (USA), Francesca Fici (Italy), Joanna Woods (New Zealand), the late Nina Kristesen (Australia) and many others. Their remarks and comments on Russian life gave me a new perspective and new vision of my country. My special gratitude to Amanda Calvert and Timothy Seaton, who not only translated the main body of the text but made some very helpful notes as well. And last but not least, two persons made a great contribution to my work. My husband Igor, a historian, is my first consultant, adviser and critic. He is also a photographer who makes illustrations for my books (including this one). And my son Ivan—a great patriot of Russia. Our long discussions and disputes helped me better understand my country. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS CS! Russia.indb ix 3/14/11 10:58 AM [...]...MAP OF RUSSIA x MOSCOW KAZAKHSTAN ARTIC OCEAN RUSSIA MONGOLIA CHINA FIRST IMPRESSIONS CHAPTER 1 Russia can’t be understood with the mind, And can’t be measured with a common yardstick: It has a peculiar character— In Russia you can only believe.’ —Fyodor Tyutchev, Russian poet 2 CultureShock! Russia THE MYSTERIOUS RUSSIAN SOUL Life in Russia has never been plain sailing... Locals Those who have come to Russia for the first time get to know the country in a superficial way and only meet Russians on 16 CultureShock! Russia the street or in public transport They often complain about the particularly ‘gloomy’ nature of the Russians, the lack of smiles in the crowd, the introspection The reason for this is not to be found in the peculiarities of the Russian character, but in... time At different historical periods, Westerners ‘discovered’ Russia again and again, each time revealing some ‘new’ aspects In the 19th century and even nowadays, a Westerner going to 4 CultureShock! Russia Russia is looked upon as half-mad and half-heroic Even now at the time of mass media, many foreigners are surprised to realise that Russians have the same joys and sorrows as the rest of the world... in Russia Many foreigners are surprised by the abundance of the land On the one hand, it is very pleasant For the most part there is freedom; you can walk where you like and set up a 20 CultureShock! Russia A water pump such as this is a typical source of water in small towns and villages tent without having to ask permission On the other hand, it is sad Agriculture is not exactly flourishing in Russia. .. Lewis Carrol, who came to Russia in July As for later periods, you only have to think back to films about Russia such as the famous Doctor Zhivago The characters love and suffer against the backdrop of endlessly deep snowdrifts and beautiful icicles Cinema actively uses and thereby reaffirms this ingrained impression of One of Russia s lovely villages in winter 22 CultureShock! Russia permanent snow and... abroad permanently and those who have come temporarily to work, relax or travel Russian 6 CultureShock! Russia émigrés, who are often an important source of information about the country that they have left behind, are an interesting and distinctive category And it is with them that you can start to tell the difference between Russia and other countries Nowadays, people travel freely around the world,... impressions you get from your acquaintance with Russia are often spoiled by the service, which is far from being as it should In this instance, tourist groups are better off: everything is arranged for them in line with the established rituals and the inbound operator keeps an eye 18 CultureShock! Russia on service, whereas those who have to talk to people in the Russian service industries themselves do not... foreigners ARRIVING IN RUSSIA There is a popular saying in Russia, ‘Better to see once than hear a hundred times’ However much you may have heard or read about the history of Russia and the Russians, it is all no more than an enigmatic and abstract idea until you have actually visited the country The reality that confronts tourists and those who for whatever reason are travelling through Russia is always... government quickly ‘caught up’ with the world and switched over to the widely-used Gregorian calendar 14 CultureShock! Russia Only the Russian Orthodox Church refused to follow suit and follows the old dates to this day So it is that Christians all round the world celebrate Christmas on 25 December, whereas Russians celebrate it on 7 January The so-called ‘old New Year’ takes place on the night of 13–14 January... Nevertheless, winter is a great time for travelling to Russia and you should not be afraid to come You simply need to choose the right clothes Often, you come across unhappy tourists wrapped in thin garments and with leather gloves 24 CultureShock! Russia on their freezing hands Winter coats, hats and fur gloves or woollen mittens are not simply a pretty part of Russian life, they are a ‘bare necessity’ Vodka . Russia A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Anna Pavlovshaya cs! russia. indd 1 1/27/11 12:27:23 PM A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Russia Anna. Places 183 Traditional Russian Cuisine 186 Drinks 188 Russian Tea Drinking 193 Chapter 7 Culture and Travel 196 The Russian Culture 197 The Russian Holidays 206 Travelling in Russia 211 Places of. believe.’ —Fyodor Tyutchev, Russian poet FIRST IMPRESSIONS CHAPTER 1 CS! Russia. indb 1 3/14/11 10:59 AM 2 CultureShock! Russia THE MYSTERIOUS RUSSIAN SOUL Life in Russia has never been plain