P##f#SM #nI TW l NG k1% FQR No R Teytie fbr Yar and bzr m anuf cturng; I i es; n ' n a i W eavi t ng echnol ogy;Fabrcstr tur and desi Speci I oven f c pr i uc e gn; aw abri oducton; i W ef and w ar kniti t t p t ng echnol ogy;Knit f i desi Speci lkni f i pr t ed abrc gn; a t abrc oducton; i Sw eaterkni i g; ttn Dyei pri i and fni ng ng, ntng i shi E ngr ShahAlmuz aman Bel G ex U ) i z al t ATI( K As s sitant Pr ofessor Colege ofTextie Engi i and Technol l l neerng ogy Dhaka,Bangl adesh Publshed by BM N3f daton i oun i Dhaka,Bangl h ades TABLE O FCONTENTS Cont s ent I r nt oduc i t t tl ton o ex ies Fl char oft ie pr es ng ow t extl oc si Textl fbr ie i es Yar and n yar m anuf t i n ae urng Pr tesoft ie fbr operi extl i es Prm ar pr tesoft iefbr i y operi extl i es Secondar pr tesoft iefbr y oper i extl i es Cl ii i oft ti fbr assfcaton ex l i es e Fi e i ii i br dentfcaton Bur ng t t ni es Li mi os opyt t ght cr c es Chemials ubiiy t t c ol lt es Typesoffbr i es Cl sfcaton ofyar as ii i n Typesofcot onyar t n Bl oom s i owr ecton Pr sI oces ayoutoft yar m anuf t i s t he n ac urng ys em w ih a moder bl oom Ine t n owr i Car ng s ton di ec i Doublng and dr i i aw ng Com bi s ti ng ec on Si exorRovi f am e mpl ng r Cot on s nni s em t pi ng yst Spi ni g machi n n ne Aut oner oc Yar c toni and pac ng n ondii ng ki Yar num berng s t n i ys em Defnii i ton Typesofyar count n Cal atonsconc ni count cul i er ng F m ul f countconver on or ae or si Countcal aton and denoton f pI yar cul i i or y n L h calul on ofacone ofs i t ead engt c ati ew ng hr Fanc Yar # ns F ancyyar n Col efect our f s St uct e efec s r ur f t Lus e efec s tr f t Page no 002 003 004 004 004 006 011 O12 012 014 018 021 O21 021 024 025 028 030 030 032 034 035 36 039 040 041 041 041 044 046 O47 050 051 051 051 051 052 Fabrc and i Fabrc m anuf urng i act i W oven f i s and abr c W eavi t ng echnol ogy Typesoff i abrc F i cl sftatonatagl e abrc as ii i ane W oven f is abre Pr essfow t manuf oe l o adurngwoven f i i abrc W eavi pr aton ng epar i W i ng ndi W i ngpr s ndi oces Tensondevi i ce Typesofpac ges ka Pinwi ng r ndi W i ng machi ndi ne Pr sonwi ng ecii ndi Pr em obl W ar pr aton p epar i W ar ng pi Diec orHi speedwar ng r t gh pi I r torSec i war ng ndiec ton pi W ar ng ma ne pi chi SzngorSl hi ii as ng Sii mac ne zng hi Dr wig-n andTyi -n a n i ng i F undament sofweavi al ng W eavi prnci e ng i pl Bascw ea ngm otons i vi i W ar Itof p e- f W ar sheddi p ng W ef i eri orpiki t ns ton c ng Yar ac n cumult sorf a or eeder s Bea t up Tak up eAuxl ywea ngmotons ii ar vi i F i wi h abrc dt W ea ngmac ne orL vi hi oom Shutl wea ngmac nes te vi hi Shutl es weavi ma nes tel s ng chi P oe tl wea igma hie rjci e c n Rapi weavi machi er ng ne Aij twe ma hn r e a ig c ie Waerjtwe vngma hie t - c n e M uli eweavi ma ne tphas ng chi F i s vages abrc el Gr f i i ey abrc nspec i Ines ton i 053 053 055 056 057 057 057 058 059 063 069 071 072 072 073 074 074 076 077 079 083 086 089 093 093 095 095 096 096 098 100 102 103 103 105 106 107 108 110 111 113 114 115 117 Fabrc s uc ur i tr t e and desi gn ltodu tont f brcsr t ean desgn n r r i o a i tueur d i W oven f i specii i abrc fcaton Fabrcwei cal aton i ght cul i Yar c umpton c cul on n ons i al ati Parsofa c t ompl e desin et g Dr f i a tng Sys em orcas fcaton ofdr tng t l sii i afi Bascweavesofwovenf i i abrc Pl n weave M f tur ofpl nweave n ea es Cl sfcaton ofpl n c1 h as ii i 0t Dervatvesofpl nweave i i Ri weave b M at weave t Or ent on ofpl n (0t nam ati h Twil eave lw Cl siiaton oft lweave as fc i wil Dervatvesoft lweave i i wil Zi z t lweave g- ag wil Her i rngbonet lweave wil Di amond desi gn Di desi aper gn Br okent lweave wil Re- r aranged t lwea wil ve St epped t lweave wil El t t lweave onga ed wil Com bi t lwea ned wil ve Shadedt lwea wil ve Advant agesand diadvant s agesoft l wil Satn wea i ve Cl siiatonofs i weave as fc i atn Cons r on prnci e ofs i weave t udi i pl atn Dervatvesofsatn weave i i i Cr weaves epe Cor s ew weaves k cr Shaded weaves Fanc desgn ors uc ur off i y i tr t e abrts Huck abackweaves M ockI weaves eno Honeycomb weave Dit t t ead e/ec s ored hr t Cor weave d Spongeweave 118 119 121 121 123 125 129 131 134 135 135 136 137 138 141 144 146 147 153 154 159 162 165 167 168 173 175 179 183 186 187 188 189 194 195 201 202 205 205 209 211 217 220 227 Col and weave ef ect our f s Si pl c ourand weave efec s m e ol f t Com pound col and weave efect our f s Fi i w ih ext a t eads gurng t r hr Com pound f is abrc Tubul c1 h ar 0t Doubl wi h c1 e dt 0th M ulipl f is t- y abrc Stt iched doubl cl hs e ot Cl sii i ofdoubl c1 h as fcaton e 0t Sel ti ofsuiabl s ichi posii ec on t e tt ng tons Cons r ton prnci e t uc i i pl Sel s tchdoubl c1 h f ti e 0t W added doubl c1 e 0th Centr s ich doubl c1 h e tt e 0t Fabrc used i appar s t i n el ec or F i bas on pl n weave abrc ed F i bas ont lweave abrc ed wil Othercom mer alf i ci abrcs Fabrccons uc on orspeciiati i tr ti fc on speti f i pr al abrt odud i on 229 231 235 238 241 241 242 242 244 244 247 248 248 251 253 256 256 261 263 265 267 Br d f i abrcs 268 M anuf turng prnci e ac i i pl 269 End uses 270 M ulicom ponentf i t abrcs 271 Bonded f brcs a i 27 L i ed f is am nat abrc 272 Qui ed f i l abrcs t 273 L orGauz f is eno e abrc 277 W eavi prnci e and end uses ng i pl 278 L appetand Sw i f is vel abrc 280 L appetw eavi prnci e ng i pl 280 Feat esofs i w eave ur w vel 281 Deni f i m abrcs 283 Feat esand r m at i sofdeni f i ur aw erai m abrc 283 W ar pr p epar i aton 285 W oven pie f i l abrcs 288 W ef pie f i t l abrcs 288 W ar pief i p l abrcs 292 The w ie m et r hod 292 The doubI cl h orf to-ace m et e- ot ace- f hod 295 The sl t on pie ort r w eave ack ensi l ery 305 Fl ocked f i abrcs 313 Tuf ng:Tufed carpet li t 315 Knit f i and t ed abrcs Knit ng t t i echnol ogy I r tonandhit ial c gr ntoduc i sorc ba k oundofk tig nitn Gener t m sr at t kniti t al er el ed o t ng echnol ogy M echani prnci esofknitngtechnol cal i pl ti ogy Basi el ent ofkniti c em s t ng The need1 s e The c m s a The si er nk s M ethodsofyar f ng n eedi M ethodsoff m i yarn i o needl I or ng nt e oops S t f m aton on bear needl tich or i ded es Loop f mati on I ch needl or on at es Knitng ac i ofcom pound needl ti ton es W ef knitng m achi t ti nes M f ur ofa knitng m achi n eat es ti ne Cl ii i ofwef kniti m achi assfcaton t t ng nes Fl knitng m achi at t i ne Cicul kniti m achi r ar t ng ne Fabrc m achi e i n Gar mentl h m achi -engt nes Sn e-ere cr ul k tigmac ne igl j s y ic ar nitn hi 322 326 337 337 337 341 344 345 346 347 349 351 354 354 354 356 358 361 362 363 Ri cicul knitng m achi b r ar t i ne I erock cicul knitng m achi nt l r ar t i ne Li -i orPur kniti m achi nks lnks l t ng ne Bascw ef knit s r ur i t t ed t uct es The pl n kni s uct e orpl n f i t tr ur abrc The rb s uc ur orrb f i i tr t e i abrc The pur kni s uct e orpur f i l t tr ur l abrc The i erocks uct e ori eroc f i nt l tr ur nt l k abrc Com parson between basi s r tur i c t uc es 369 377 380 383 383 385 389 392 394 I iia i ofsn ean doubl j s y dentfc ton igl d e ere 395 Basi I orstt t c oop ich ypes The hel l d oop Thefoats t orI l tich oop Thetuck I ors ich oop tt The dr orpr s of s t op es - f tich Desi ofw ef knit f i gns t t ed abrcs 396 396 398 403 411 413 Or ament tonofsngej s f brc n i l-erey a i Sn e-ere derv ies igl j s y iatv Doubl j s yderv tv sb edon rb e-ere ia ie as i 41 41 421 Dervati ofi erocks uct e i ves nt l tr ur 427 W e tk te j qu ddesgn f nit d ac ar i Si ej s j c ar de i ngl-erey a qu d sgn Doubl j s yj c r desg e-ere a qua d in 437 437 441 ty y , , ; l ) ) % ) ' l t t ) ( t y S a erk itng we t nti F a urso t es a erk itn ma hi e t e f h we t ntig c ne 446 447 The manuals erknitng machi weat ti ne Pr tonofdif entf i ons t oduci fer abrcs wea er knitng machi ti ne 448 4s3 t l @