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NAPLES The guides that show you what others only tell you E ye w i tn e ss T R AV EL restaurants marke volcanoes • i slands churches • m us e u m s v illa g e s • bea c he s • hot el s t hermal s pa s • r o man r u in N a p les Area by Are a T he majority of the sights in Naples described in this guide lie within the six central areas of t h e c ity: To l e d o an d Caste l Nuovo; Spaccanapo l i; Decumano Maggiore; Capodimonte and I Vergini; Vomero ; and Castel dell’Ovo and Chiaia. Each area has its own chapter and is distinguished by a colour code. There is also a chapter on Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. For Naples map references see the Street Finder on pages 228–2 4 3. C A S TEL DELL’ O V O AND C HIAIA Pa g es 112 – 119 VO MER O P ages 102 – 111 TOLEDO AND C ASTEL N UOV O Pages 4 6 –59 C A STEL DELL’OV O V V AN D C HI A I A VO MER O P O MPEII & THE AMAL F I C OAS T Pages 130 – 1 7 3 S PACCANAPOLI Pages 6 0–7 3 D E CU MAN O MA GG I O RE P a g es 7 4 –8 9 CAPODIMONTE AND I V ERGINI Pages 90 – 101 C A P O DIM ON TE AN D I V ER G I N I TO L ED O O AN A D C A STEL NU N O V O V V S P ACCANA AN PP P O LI D E C U M ANO N NO MA MA GGI GGI O R E 0 metre s 0 yar d s 500 500 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL NAPLE S & T HE AMA LFI CO A S T Nap 001.indd 3 Nap 001.indd 3 dd 3 33 dd dd dd d 3 33 3 d 3 dd 2 2 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL N A PLES & THE AMALFI CO A ST Nap 002-003.indd 3 Nap 002-003.indd 3 3 33 3 33 3 3 M M M M P M PP 7 24/4/06 1:45:28 P24/4/06 1:45:28 M MM MM MM MM MM MM MM PMP M PP A M Marina Gran d e , Sorrent o Th e in fo rm at i o n in t hi s Dor l ing Kin d ers l ey Trave l Gui d e is c h ec k e d regu l ar l y . Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as u p -to-date a s p ossi bl e at t h e time o f going to p ress. Some d etai l s, h owever, s uch as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging a rran g ements and travel information are liable to chan g e. The p u bl is h ers cannot acce p t res p onsi b i l ity f or any conse q uences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party w ebsites, and cannot g uarantee that an y website address in this b oo k wi ll b e a suita bl e source o f trave l in f ormation. We va l ue t h e v iews and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to : P ublisher, DK E y ewitness Travel Guides, D or l ing Kin d ers l ey, 80 Stran d , Lon d on WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. INTRODUC I N G N A PLE S FOU R G RE A T A A D A Y S I N NA PLE S A N D T H E A M A L FI C OA ST 1 0 PU TT IN G N A P LE S O N T H E M A P 1 2 TH E H I ST O R Y R R OF N A P LE S 16 N A PLE S A T A A A G L A N CE 30 N A P LE S TH R O U G H T H E YE A R 4 0 The S p accana p oli distric t C ON TE N T S H O W T O US E T HI S G UI DE 6 T h e F a rn ese H e r cu l es Produced b y F a bio Ratti Editoria Librari a e M u ltimedial e M i lano , I t al y P R OJ EC T E D I T O R G i ova nn i F ra n ces i o E D I T O R S B ar b ara Cacciani, Gior g ia Conversi, E l ena M arzorat i, M i chele Di M uro D ES I G N E R S Paolo Gonzato , Carlotta M a derna , Stefania Test a M A P S P a ul Sta ff or d DK Pu bl is h ing, I n c. P R OJ E CT E D I T O R F R iona Wi ld E D I T O RS F rancesca M a chiavelli , N a omi Peck, Rosal y n Thiro CON TR I B U T O R S Patrizia A n tignani , M ariella Barone , Ciro Caccio l a , A n ge l a Cate ll o, Danie l a Lepore, Emi l ia M a rc h i, Ki r si V i gl ione, Beatrice Vite ll i ILL U STR A R R T A A O RS G iorgia Boli, Paola Spampinato, N a dia Vi g an ò EN G L I S H T R AN RR S L A T A A I ON Richard Pierce Repro d uce d b y Lineatre Service, M ila n o Printe d an d b oun d in C h ina b y To pp an Printing Co. (Shenzhen Ltd ) F irst A m erican Edition , 2000 0 7 08 0 9 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Pu bl is h e d in t h e U nite d States b y DK Pu bl is h ing, I n c. , 3 75 H ud son Street, N ew Y ork 10014 YY Re p rinted with revisions 2003, 2005, 200 7 C opyright © 2000, 2007 Dorling Kindersley Limited, Londo n A Penguin Company A A LL R I G H T SRE S ERVE D UN DER I N TER NA T AA IO N A L A N D P A N- A M ER I C A N C O P Y R I G H T C O N VE N T I O N S . N O P A PP RT OF T HI S P U BL I C A T A A I ON MAY BE REPR O D U CE D , S T O RED IN A R ETR I EV A VV L S Y S TEM, O R TR AN R R S M ITTE D I N A N Y FO R M O R B Y A N Y M E AN S , E LE C T R O N I C , M EC HA NI C A L , P HO T O C O P Y I N G , RE C O RDI N G O R O T H ER W I SE W I T HOU T T H E P R I O R WR I T TE N PERMI SS ION O F T H E C O P Y R I G H T O W N ER . P u bl is h e d in Great Britain by Dor l in g Kin d ers l e y Limite d . A C A T AA A T T L O G IN G I N P U BL I C A T A A IO N RE C O RD I S A V A A AI VV L A BLE F R O M T H E L I BR A R R R Y OF CON R R G RE SS . I SS N 1542-155 4 I SB N 978-0-75662-502-3 FL OO RS A RE RE F ERRED T O T H R OU G H OU T IN A C C O RD AN CE W I T H E U R O PE AN U S A GE ; I E T H E “ FI RS T F L O O R ” I S T H E F L OO R A B OV E G ROU N D L EVE L . Front cover main ima g e: Positano, t h e Ama lf i Coas t US_Nap 004-005.indd 4 4 Panoramic view o f the Forum at Pompeii, with Vesuvius in the backgroun d N A PLES A R E A BY A R E A T OLE D O AN D CA S T E L N U O V O 4 6 S P A P P CC A N A P O L I 60 D EC U MA N O M A GG IO RE 74 CA P O D IMO N TE A N D I V E R G IN I 9 0 VO M ER O 1 02 CA S T EL D ELL ’ O V O A N D C HI A I A 11 2 T W O G UI D E D W A W W L K S 1 2 0 T W O T R I PS A R O UN D P O S I LL I P O 1 2 4 P O M PE II & T H E A MA L F I CO A ST 13 0 O utdoor eatin g , Ba y of Naple s T RAVELLERS’ N EED S W H ERE T O S T AY T T 1 76 W H ERE T O EA T A A 1 8 8 S H O PS AN D M A R KE TS 2 0 4 EN TERT AINM T T E N T 21 0 S PE C IA L I ST H O L I D A Y S A N D O U T D OO R A C T I V I T I E S 214 S U R V I VA L G U I DE P R A RR C T I C A L I N F O R MA R R T A A I ON 21 8 T R A R R VEL A A I NF O R MA RR T A A I ON 2 22 S TREE T F I N DER 22 8 G E N ER A RR L I N DE X 244 PH R A RR SE BOO K 255 R OA D M A P I nside back cover Pizza Napoletan a T he chu r ch a n d clo i ste r s o f Sa n ta C hi a r a US_Nap 004-005.indd 5 5 I I I K K K 17/5/2006 5:23:27 pm 1 " Ornate rooms in the Palazzo Reale ! S I G HT S AT A G LAN CE #45'.6171%#454+54+/23'4 4+7'4*#&1810#0#3'# 5* #5+4 $ 15 * 5 * '%1/ /'3%+# . #0 & # & /+0+453#5+7' % '053'1 ( /1 & '30# 2. '4#0 & 5* ' * '#351 ( 5 * '1 .& %# 2 +5# . *+ 4 ; 1 0 ' ' 9 5' 0 &4 #4 ( # 3 #4 5 * ' * #3$1635*'$1#3&+0) 2 1+05(1 3 ( '33:53+24'0563+'41(*+4513:#3' % 10%'053#5'&+05*'#3'#<(31/5*' # 0%+'05#3% * #'1 . 1)+%# . 36+04105 * ' * + 1 ( +;;1 ( # . %10'515 * %'0563 : $ 6+ .& +0 ) 446% * #45 * '# '3+# / $ '351'#35 * '1 : # . # . #%'#0 & ( 1353'441(#45'.617112214+5' 5 *' $ #4+.+%#1(#03#0%'4%1&+ #1.#+45*'/# , '45+%#.#;;1 '#.'#2#.#%'$6+.5$:5*' 2#0+4*7+%'31:4600+0) 0 135 * ( 31/ * '3'+4# . 10 ) #0 & ( #/164 5*%'0563 : 31#&!+# 1.'&15*'/#+0#35'3 : 1( #2.'45+445+ $'55'3-0180$:5*+4 0#/'#(5'35*'/#08*1$6+.5+5 ! +%'31:10'&311(1.'&15*#0+54 0'8'31 (( +%+# . 0#/'!+#1/#+0+0) 5 * '5 * 1316 )*( #3'#3'' . ' ) #05 $ 6+ .& +0)445#5' . :% * 63% * '4#0 & 4 * 1 2 4 Cannonballs at Castel N uo v o G ETTIN G THER E +#;;#&'..'$+4%+51#0&2#35 1( ! + # 1.'&1 # 3 ' %.14'& 51 53#((+%$65#06/$'31(%+5: $ 64'43600'#3 $: 165' %1/'4(31/#21.+'053#.' 3 #+ . 8# : 45#5+108 * + . '%1/'4 (31/'3)' +0#3#+.8#:45#5+10 6 4 +4105*'4#/'31 6 5' #4 #21&+/105'#0&5*' 64'13% * '1 . 1)+%1 * '! 3 165'.+0-4!1/'318+5*5*' (6 0+% 6. #3#5105'4#051#0 & 1.'&1*'.+$6413 #33+7'(31/5*'#+32135#5 +#;;#60+%+2+1 Historic Theatres '#5 3 1 ' 3 %#&# 0 5' '#5 3 1 # 0 # 3 .1 M useu m s 64'1 & ' 22 #35#/'05 1 6 4'1 35+45+%10& 6 453+#.' H istoric Buildings #.# ;; 1 &' ' 145' ' ' . ')3# (+ # . #;;1 '33# & +#44#0 1 Churche s #05# 3+)+& # #0'3&+0#0&1 #0' #03#0%'4%1&+#1.# # #0+#%1/1&').+ + 2#)01.+ #05##3+# & ' ). +0 ) ' .+ #05##3+# ) +;+#% # # +;; 1(#.%1 0 ' #05##3+#0%1310#5# 6 0;+#5' # H istoric Streets a nd S q uares # '3+# /$'351 +#;;#+17#00+17+1 6#35+'3+ 2#)01 . + ! + # * + # + # ! + # 1.'&1 0 m et r es 0 y ard s Street-by-Street map See pp 48–9 Ferr y por t F u ni cu l a r - 6 $ * " 4 1 & 3 * & 5 * 4 7 * " " % * " ; 0 - & % 0 * )+ 3 + & # $+)(( "&,,)' 0,.$&- $( -# &- -# -# -+ , -,(-# ).,-$,+ 1 && (- / +22 +)()) +$2-# + $, * +!)+'( )!-# +++) )'*), 2 +")& ,$!)+-# )(!+- +($-2, # + ,$( ! +$ & ((.(3$)0+)- -# &2+$,-)-# *)&$-(,)(" 2 -, ##4 $(-#$,!4 #$, )&,,$&#.+#0, ,$"( 2."()+#$- -$ -+)$(#$$( # ,.&* + )(&!)(,))! +")(,-+$.'*#&+# ,-(,) -0 (-# 11& '$& ( ,)! 0-#-)0 +,)!-#$,*& (!)+-+ ,,&,)%()0(,-# ,#$) ("$)$() -%, *,$$) %+*% )+* ntrance to lazzo Reale library Molo rello '**%) #&+ &) )#* #$,*& 0, ".($( !)+/$,$-2#$&$* )!*$(0#$#( / + -))%*& STAR SIGHTS Palazzo Reale San Francesco di Paola Castel Nuovo 100 100 SPACCANAPOLI For hotels and restaurants in this area see p178 and p192 TREN TREN FINDIN G Y OU R WAY AR OU ND THE S I G HT S EEIN G S E C TI O N HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 6 HOW T O US E THI S GU IDE Th e city h as b een d ivi d e d into six co l our- c o d e d areas, eac h wit h its own c h a p ter. A d escription o f t h e h istory an d f eatures o f each a rea is f o ll owe d b y a Street- b y-Street m a p f ocusing on t h e main attractions. The s ig h ts are num b ere d f or easy re f erence. Th e most important sig h ts in eac h area are described in detail in two or more pages . A suggeste d r ou t e incl u des the most i nterestin g and attract i ve streets . Eac h a r ea has a colo u r-coded thumb tab . Th e area s h a d e d pin k i s shown in greater detail on t he Street-by-Street Map on t he following pages . 2 Street-by-Street Map T his g ives a bird’s-e y e vie w of the heart o f the si g htseein g a rea. The numbers re f er to th e f uller descri p tions p rovided on the f ollowin g p a g es. 1 Introduction to the Area Th e sig h ts are num b ere d a n d l ocate d on an area map w h ic h a l so s h ows pu bl i c t ransport stops an d car par k s. Th e ma j or sig h ts are l iste d by category: c h urc h es an d cat h e d ra l s, museums an d g a ll eries, streets an d squares, mar k etp l aces, h istori c b ui ld ings, par k s an d gar d ens . seaso n . Na p les Area b y Area descri b es the main si g htseein g areas i n detail, with ma p s, illustrations and ph otograp h s. Pompeii an d t h e Ama lfi C oast covers this re g ion’s s p lendid archaeological sites and als o f eatures an itinerar y for a coastal boat tri p . Information on hotels, s h ops, restaurants an d b ars is cove r ed in Tr avelle r s ’ Needs , while t h e Surviva l Gui de contains practical e a d vice – f or examp l e, h ow to use t h e l ocal trans p ort networks. T h is guide helps you to get the m ost out o f your visit to Nap l es. It provi d es b ot h expert r ecommen d ations an d a d vice as we ll as useful p ractical information. The f irst c h apter, Intro d ucing Nap l es, se t s t h e cit y in its ric h an d varie d g eogra p hical and historical context. N ap l es at a G l ance gives you a b rie f overview of the main si g hts in the cit y , as well as cultural back g round. Naples Through the Year describes r events and festivals season b y L ocator ma p A l ocator map shows where you are in relation to the other areas in the cit y. Th e li st o f sta r si g ht s indicates pl aces no visitor s h ou ld miss. + + . , & " 35#5 0+%+2+1 o [...]... E 7 NAPLES AREA MAP The coloured areas on this map (see inside front cover) correspond to the seven main sightseeing areas Each area is covered in full either in the Naples Area by Area (see pp44– 129) section or in the Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast (see pp130– 173) chapter The map showing the centre of Naples (pp14–15) also locates all of the major sights and monuments in the city POMPEII & THE AMALFI. .. GREAT DAY S IN NAPLES A AND THE AMALFI COAST V everything, from a walk among isitors to Naples and the ruins to a day exploring Amalfi Coast could be churches and shops, and from overwhelmed by the amount of things there are to a drive along the spectacular see and do Castles, palaces and coast to activities for children museums, miles of breathtaking All sights are cross-referenced to coastline, as... important events in the history of the building 4Historic buildings are dissected to reveal their interiors Museums and galleries have colour-coded floorplans to help you locate the major works exhibited d 2 INTRODUCING NAPLES FOUR GREAT DAYS IN NAPLES AND A THE AMALFI COAST 1011 M PUTTING NAPLES ON THE MAP 1215 M THE HISTORY OF NAPLES 1629 RY NAPLES AT A GLANCE 3039 NAPLES THROUGH THE YEAR 4043 Nap_008_009.indd... coastal road inland towards Ravello (see p160) Verdant and tranquil, it is arguably the best known stop on the Amalfi coast tour for spellbinding views of the sea Must-see sights here include the splendid Duomo, the church of Santa Maria a Gradillo, and the villas Rufolo and Cimbrone Break for lunch Breathtaking view of the coast from Amalfi NP_010_011_NaplesGreatDays.indd 11 ndd ndd 11 RUINS AND CRATERS... visitors from seeking out and appreciating the beauty of the bay Ischia has small sandy beaches that are a great tourist attraction Gaiola is the largest of the three islands facing the Gaiola quarter The coastline is rocky and precipitous with natural caves THE BAY OF NAPLES Mount Vesuvius stands guard over a bay wh characteristic curves to the violent and often deadly volcanoes The conical shape of Monte... cones and craters of all ages, some submerged, some still bubbling with thermal springs and jets of steam Now that Vesuvius is quiet (the last smoke trail was seen in 1944), the most active crater in the region is the Solfatara at Pozzuoli (see p137) The living, breathing quality of the land led Homer to choose the coastline as the setting for parts of the Odyssey Chaotic development along the coast. .. landscapes and picturesque settings – as seen in this work by Gigante (1806 –76), showing the chapel of San Gennaro – as well as the rural scenes of Palizzi (1818 –99) and the realism of Morelli (1826–1901) THE DUKE OF NOJA’S MAP This was the first modern relief map, the work of Duke Giovanni Carafa di Noja in 1775 The map shows the full extent of the city of Naples and the monumental buildings in the. .. built along the Riviera and Toledo and the need to accommodate the troops led to the building of the Quartieri Spagnoli district New churches and monasteries were built By now Naples was by far the largest city in Italy, with consequent problems of overcrowding and poverty A famous figure in this period is Masaniello, the evolutionary who was first considered a hero, and then killed by the people who... Nazionale See pp86–9 The seafront with its historic hotels, Castel dell’Ovo and the Borgo Marinaro Posillipo See pp124–9 32 I N T R O D U C I N G N A P L E S Naples and the Bay Formed by an immense crater, the Bay of Naples is both sheltered and exposed; sheltered by the curve of hills to the east which create a natural semi-circular amphitheatre, The Faraglioni but open to the sea The zone is of Capri... elite After the fall of the Roman Empire the exception of the short-lived and a wave of invasions, the city, republican government in 1799 and though it retained some independence, the subsequent decade of French came under Byzantine influence and dominion, the Bourbons ruled Naples went through a period of rebirth In until 1860 Since the unification of Italy the the 10th century the invading Normans . Vomero ; and Castel dell’Ovo and Chiaia. Each area has its own chapter and is distinguished by a colour code. There is also a chapter on Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. For Naples map references see the. 4:10 22/ 1 12 1 7/ / 11 11 7 11 11 22 22 11 11 7 1 1 7 7/ 7/ 1 0 00 00 M MM MM MM MM MM MM MM PP PP M M PP PP 00 00 3 A M INTRODUCING NAPLES 1 0 F OUR G R E AT D A Y A A S IN N APLE S AND T H E A M A LF I CO A ST V isitors to Na p les and the A malfi Coast could b e overwhelmed b y the amount of thin g s there. */" q g h n a b 5 u N P U T T I NG N APLES ON THE M AP 15 e tiled cloister of Santa Chiara The T The e fountain of The fo Ch ri st a n d the Sa m a ri tan in the cloister of the convent of San Gregorio
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