Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers Alaska 2004 by Charles Wohlforth About the Author Charles Wohlforth is a lifelong Alaskan who has been a writer and journalist since 1986. His Frommer’s Family Vacations in the National Parks covers parks all over the United States based on insights from the Wohlforth family’s own camping experi- ences. Wohlforth lives in Anchorage with his wife, Barbara, sons Robin and Joseph, and daughters Julia and Rebecca. In April, Farrar, Straus and Giroux will publish his new book about how Eskimos and scientists are learning about climate change in the Arctic, titled The Whale and the Supercomputer. Wohlforth welcomes reader questions and comments through his website, www.wohlforth.net. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, (317) 572-3447, fax (317) 572-4447, E-Mail: permcoordinator@wiley.com. 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Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 1 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 2 The Best Alaska Cruises . . . . . . . .8 3 The Best Glaciers . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 4 The Most Beautiful Drives & Train Rides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 5 The Best Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . .10 6 The Best Tips for Cooking Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 7 The Best Bear Viewing . . . . . . . .11 8 The Best Marine Mammal Viewing . . . . . . . . . . .12 9 The Best Encounters with Native Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 10 The Best Community Museums & Historic Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 11 The Best Winter Destinations . . .13 12 The Strangest Community Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 13 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 14 The Best Bed & Breakfasts . . . . .15 15 The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . . .16 Planning Your Trip to Alaska 17 2 Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Alaska 1 The Best of Alaska 5 1 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .17 Alaska by the Numbers . . . . . . .18 2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .19 3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Native Art: Finding the Real Thing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Only-in-Alaska Events . . . . . . . .26 Alaska Calendar of Events . . . . .26 5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .29 6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 7 Escorted Tour or Do-It-Yourself Independent Travel? . . . . . . . . .35 8 Planning an Outdoor Vacation . . .39 A Salmon Primer . . . . . . . . . . . .42 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .46 10 Getting There & Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 11 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .51 Fast Facts: Alaska . . . . . . . . . . .53 For International Visitors 56 3 1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . . .56 2 Getting to the United States . . . .61 Fast Facts: For the International Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 1 Weighing Your Cruise Options . . .65 2 The Best Cruise Experiences in Alaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 3 Booking Your Cruise . . . . . . . . .70 Shopping for Shore Tours . . . . . .71 4 The Small-Ship Cruise Lines . . . .74 Midsize Educational Cruising . . .79 5 The Big-Ship Cruise Lines . . . . . .79 Cruising Alaska’s Coast 65 4 Southeast Alaska 86 5 1 Exploring Southeast Alaska . . . .87 2 Ketchikan: On the Waterfront . . .94 Fast Facts: Ketchikan . . . . . . . . .98 3 Misty Fjords National Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 The Coolest Flights . . . . . . . . .108 4 Wrangell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109 Fast Facts: Wrangell . . . . . . . .112 5 Petersburg: Unvarnished Threshold to the Outdoors . . . .118 Fast Facts: Petersburg . . . . . . .121 6 Sitka: Rich Prize of Russian Conquest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Fast Facts: Sitka . . . . . . . . . . .131 Rent a Floathouse . . . . . . . . . .140 7 Juneau: Forest Capital . . . . . . .142 Fast Facts: Juneau . . . . . . . . . .145 A Juneau Walking Tour . . . . . .148 Remote Cabins on Foot . . . . . .157 A Day Trip to Tracy Arm . . . . . .159 Quick Bites in Juneau . . . . . . .167 8 Glacier Bay National Park . . . . .168 9 Gustavus: Country Inns & Quiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 10 Haines: Eagles & the Unexpected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 Fast Facts: Haines . . . . . . . . . .178 11 Skagway: After the Gold Rush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Fast Facts: Skagway . . . . . . . .188 Anchorage & Environs 195 6 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 Fast Facts: Anchorage . . . . . . .203 2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 Three Exceptional Downtown B&Bs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 Affordable Rooms Near the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .210 4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . .215 Walking Tour: Downtown Anchorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 5 Getting Outside . . . . . . . . . . . .224 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231 7 Anchorage Nightlife . . . . . . . . .232 8 Out from Anchorage: Turnagain Arm & Portage Glacier . . . . . . .234 Tidal Wave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 Gone But Not Forgotten . . . . .236 9 Out from Anchorage: Girdwood & Mount Alyeska . . . . . . . . . . .238 10 Out from Anchorage:The Matanuska & Susitna Valleys . . .241 CONTENTS iv 1 Exploring the Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound . . . . . .246 2 The Seward Highway: A Road Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 State Parks Cabin Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249 Why All the Dead Trees? . . . . .250 3 Chugach National Forest: Do-It-Yourself Wilderness . . . . .251 4 Whittier: Dock on the Sound . . .256 5 Seward: Gateway to Resurrection Bay & Kenai Fjords . . . . . . . . .260 Fast Facts: Seward . . . . . . . . . .263 6 Kenai Fjords National Park . . . .269 7 Cooper Landing: Road Meets River . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275 8 Kenai/Soldotna & Sterling: Giant Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . .277 Fast Facts: Kenai & Soldotna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound 244 7 9 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284 10 Homer: Cosmic Hamlet by the Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286 Fast Facts: Homer . . . . . . . . . .290 Getting Your Fish Home . . . . . .296 11 Halibut Cove: Venice on Kachemak Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .302 12 Valdez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304 Fast Facts: Valdez . . . . . . . . . .306 13 Cordova: Hidden Treasure . . . . .312 Fast Facts: Cordova . . . . . . . . .315 The Denali National Park Region 320 8 1 Planning a Visit to the Park . . .322 The Denali Highway: The Drivable Denali . . . . . . . . . . . .324 2 Park Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . .327 Train Choices . . . . . . . . . . . . .329 Fast Facts: Denali National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .331 3 Denali by Shuttle Bus . . . . . . . .332 The Alaska-Ohio Name Game, Round 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333 4 Denali on Foot: Day Hiking & Backpacking . . . . . . . . . . . .338 5 Activities Within the Park . . . . .340 6 Attractions & Activities Outside the Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .341 First to the Top of Mount McKinley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342 7 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .344 8 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .349 9 Denali Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . .351 10 Talkeetna: Back Door to Denali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .351 Fast Facts: Talkeetna . . . . . . . .352 11 Denali Wilderness Lodges . . . .355 The Alaskan Interior 358 9 1 Exploring the Interior . . . . . . . .359 Alaska’s Highways a la Carte . . .360 2 Fairbanks: Alaska Heartland . . . .362 Fast Facts: Fairbanks . . . . . . . .365 Seeing the Aurora Borealis . . . .367 3 Chena Hot Springs Road . . . . .382 4 The Dalton Highway . . . . . . . .386 5 The Alaska Highway . . . . . . . .389 Dawson City & Eagle: Detour Into History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390 Fast Facts: Tok . . . . . . . . . . . .392 Fast Facts: Delta Junction . . . . .394 6 The Glenn Highway . . . . . . . . .395 7 Copper Center & the Richardson Highway . . . . . . . .397 8 Wrangell–St. Elias National Park & Kennecott . . . . . . . . . .398 v CONTENTS 1 Exploring the Bush . . . . . . . . .407 2 Kodiak: Wild Island . . . . . . . . .409 Fast Facts: Kodiak . . . . . . . . . .410 3 Katmai National Park . . . . . . . .415 Fast Facts: Katmai . . . . . . . . . .417 4 Unalaska/Dutch Harbor: Aleutian Boomtown . . . . . . . . .418 Fast Facts: Unalaska/ Dutch Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . .420 5 The Pribilof Islands: Birder’s Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422 6 Nome: Arctic Frontier Town . . .423 Fast Facts: Nome . . . . . . . . . . .425 7 Kotzebue: Big Village . . . . . . . .428 Fast Facts: Kotzebue . . . . . . . .430 8 Barrow: Way North . . . . . . . . .432 Fast Facts: Barrow . . . . . . . . . .434 9 Prudhoe Bay: Arctic Industry . . .436 The Bush 406 10 List of Maps Alaska 6 Southeast Alaska 89 Downtown Ketchikan 95 Wrangell 111 Petersburg 119 Sitka 129 Downtown Juneau Walking Tour 149 Juneau Beyond Downtown 153 Downtown Juneau 163 Glacier Bay National Park 169 Haines 179 Skagway 187 Anchorage 196 Downtown Anchorage 205 Downtown Anchorage Walking Tour 217 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound 245 Seward 261 Homer 287 Valdez 305 Cordova 313 Denali National Park 323 Greater Fairbanks 363 Downtown Fairbanks 375 CONTENTS vi 1 Natural History: Rough Drafts & Erasures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439 2 Politics & History: Living a Frontier Myth . . . . . . . . . . . . .445 3 The People: Three Ways to Win an Argument in Alaska . . . . . . .449 The Iditarod . . . . . . . . . . . . . .451 Appendix: Alaska in Depth 438 Index 456 Acknowledgments I couldn’t put together a book such as this without a lot of help in covering Alaska’s great distances and tracking its fast-changing visitor businesses. This is my seventh edition, and over the years so many friends have contributed their knowledge and support that the book seems to belong to a great community. A few had a special part this year, the reli- able core team of researchers whom I would trust with any assignment: Kris Capps, Catherine Curtis, Karen Datko, Kathryn Gerlek, Tom Morphet, Kate Ripley, Jed Smith, Sharon Stockard, and Kathleen Tessaro. Many other friends and family members helped with this and previous editions, and I’m grateful to all of them. —Charles Wohlforth An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Alaska 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call Alaska for Dummies Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Places or experiences not worth your time or money Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions Value Tips Overrated Moments Kids Fun Fact Finds What’s New in Alaska H ere are the latest happenings in Alaska, region by region. PLANNING YOUR TRIP For more planning information, see chap- ters 2 and 3. Prices and crowding are down at Alaska’s visitor destinations. A lack of customers always drives bargains, and it has been easy to save money for the last two years. In 2003, even the pub- lished “rack rates” started coming down at some establishments and were stable at most others after years of routine hikes. At Denali National Park, visitation was strikingly down, meaning it was easier to get reserva- tions in campgrounds and on the crit- ical shuttle buses. Bad news for Alaska businesses, good news for visitors. In 2003, the parent company of the biggest provider of escorted land tours became the owner of the second biggest, too. Carnival Cruise Lines, already owner of Holland America, bought Princess (contact information for each is in chapters 2 and 4). The two brands will continue to be oper- ated separately, but presumably the competition that seemed to drive the excellence of both companies will be lessened. Readers seem to appreciate my listing of Alaska travel agents and independent trip planners in chapter 2, so I have added more specialty operators: Alaska Private Lodgings, ( & 866/435-3873 or 907/235-3873; www.alaskabandb.com) which puts travelers into bed and breakfasts and unique lodgings on complete custom itineraries; and AskMatt Alaskan Adventures & Tours ( & 888/355- 6288 or 907/677-1225; www.askmatt. com), run by a young guy (Matt) who knows a lot about activities such as charter fishing. You’ll also find a new explanation of bird-watching opportunities, which is an increasingly popular reason to come to Alaska. I have included statewide birding tours in chapter 2 and day trips or self-guided birding in individ- ual towns where these opportunities are available. Anchorage has a great new birding tour available from Bird Watching Tours of Anchorage Alaska ( & 888/334-7282 or 907/248-7283; www.anchoragebirding.com). Another increasingly popular style of travel is to rent an RV, and there are more and more ways to do so, includ- ing relatively affordable one-way rental to Alaska from Seattle or other cities. I have covered those options in chapter 2, in the Skagway section of chapter 5 and in chapter 6, on Anchorage. In addition, it is now pos- sible to rent a camper on a four-wheel- drive truck that you can drive over the gravel rural highways, such as the Dal- ton or the Denali. See “Equipped for the Backroads” in chapter 9; the busi- ness doing these rentals is GoNorth Alaska Adventure Travel Center, at 3500 Davis Rd. in Fairbanks ( & 866/ 236-7272 or 907/479-7272; www. paratours.net). All drivers should take note of a new road report service offered by the Alaska Department of Transportation. The service can be reached at & 511 in Alaska or http://511.alaska.gov. Check on construction and road con- ditions before any long drive to avoid delays. The state passed a new 10% car rental tax, which brings the tax on car rentals in many communities near the 20% range, and almost to 30% at the Anchorage airport. I have listed car rentals outside of the airport in Anchorage to allow you to avoid at least 10% of the taxes. The legislature narrowly turned down a sales tax, but by the summer season of 2004, a state sales tax could be in effect. Colors of Nature photography tours is no long in operation. THE SOUTHEAST For more, see chapter 5. A new, catamaran-hull fast ferry is due to be completed for the summer season in 2004, drastically cutting the Alaska Marine Highway System’s run time between Juneau and Sitka. In Ketchikan there is a cool new way to get to town from the airport, which is on Gravina Island (which has no bridge). Tongass Water Taxi ( & 907/209-8294) can take you all the way downtown for less than the cost of a cab. A couple of new restau- rants in town: Steamers ( & 907/225- 1600), a nice place on the cruise ship dock that was recently resur- rected; and Bar Harbor Restaurant, a cute family-run place in a little house at 2813 Tongass Ave. ( & 907/225- 2813). In Petersburg, the famous Tent City Campground and the Bear Necessities Guesthouse did not open in 2003. The Northern Lights Restaurant at 203 Sing Lee Alley ( & 907/772-2900), has changed hands again; no word on changes, but there certainly will be food available in this prime location. An exciting addition in Sitka: the Alaska Raptor Center ( & 907/747- 8662; www.alaskaraptor.org) has com- pleted its flight rehabilitation center, a large enclosure of rainforest vegetation where eagles can learn to fly again. Visitors walk through a tube in the enclosure and look through one-way glass. The admission has gone up to $12 for adults. All the work at the Forest Service’s Starrigavan Camp- ground is complete; it’s among the best in Alaska. There has been a change in the line- up of the best lodgings and dining in Juneau. An old favorite, the Blueberry Lodge, has stopped taking guests, but I have added Alaska’s Capital Inn ( & 888/588-6507 or 907/586-6507; www.alaskacapitalinn. com), a historic luxury B&B a block from the State Capitol building. For a great casual dinner in a spectacular dining room on the dock, try the Twisted Fish Co. Alaskan Grill, at 550 S. Franklin St. ( & 907/463- 5033). Pizzeria Roma ( & 907/723- 4658), at the waterfront next to The Hanger, makes great pie. Transportation to Gustavus has changed: the boat now is called the Glacier Bay Ferry ( & 800/820-2628 or 907/586-8687; www.auknutours. com) and runs only 4 days a week, leaving from downtown Juneau instead of Auke Bay; moreover, it goes to the Glacier Bay National Park headquarters at Bartlett Cove instead of the Gustavus dock. This is all in flux, however, so call ahead. In Haines, the line-up of unusual museums seems to grow every year. If you make an odd museum pilgrim- age, don’t miss the new Hammer Museum, at 108 Main St., across from the bank ( & 907/766-2374). It has nothing but hammers. I’ve dropped the Fireweed Bakery, which was not always open consistently, and added Wild Strawberry, 138 2nd Ave. S. ( & 907/766-3608), where a commer- cial fishing family serves its own catch. Skagway seems to be in the process of being erased by excessive tourism WHAT’S NEW 2 [...]... get out and have fun anyway—that’s what Alaskans do A statistical summary of weather probabilities in various Alaska places is found below in Alaska s Climate, by Months & Regions.” I’ve summarized the best visitor season in each destination in Alaska By The Numbers,” earlier in the chapter Alaska s Climate, by Months & Regions Jan Feb Anchorage: Southcentral Alaska Average high** 21/-6 26/-3 Average... stickers and the like, and replacing them with “Made in Alaska. ” One journalist found a whole village in Bali carving Alaska Native designs out of ivory, whalebone, and other materials sent from Alaska Good estimates don’t exist of the amount of counterfeit Alaska Native art sold annually, but authorities put it close to $100 million That’s money taken from Alaska Bush economies where jobs in the cash economy... how to plan a trip to Alaska, including information on the best outdoor activities and the businesses that can help you experience the outdoors I’ve also included primers on fishing and shopping for Alaska Native art 1 The Regions in Brief SOUTHEAST ALASKA The Southeast Panhandle is the relatively narrow strip of mountains and islands lying between Canada and the Gulf of Alaska To Alaskans, it’s Southeast,... Alaska, and to showcase contemporary Alaskan art and culture See p 221 • The Pratt Museum (Homer): The Pratt explains natural history (especially the life of the ocean) in an intimate and clear way you’ll find nowhere else in Alaska See p 291 • University of Alaska Museum (Fairbanks): The wealth of knowledge and artifacts that have resulted from the university’s study of Alaska, in all its forms, is put... vibrantly colored art makes it an aesthetic journey • www .alaska. gov/adfg The Alaska Department of Fish and Game posts valuable information for anyone interested in fishing, hunting, wildlife-watching, or just learning about creatures Everyone from children to wildlife biologists will find something at his or her level • www .alaska. com Operated by Alaska s largest newspaper, the Anchorage Daily News, this... Swan Lake Route, there is a good rental outlet in Sterling, Alaska Canoe & Campground (& 907/262-2331; www.alaskacanoe trips.com) A new whale-watching option is sailing from Homer, offered by Rainbow Tours (& 907/235-7272; www rainbowtours.net), which takes visitors to the Gulf of Alaska after dropping other passengers off in Seldovia In Valdez, Alaska Woollybugger B&B is no more I have included a full... frenzy See p 275 • Homer: Alaska s largest charterfishing fleet goes for halibut ranging into the hundreds of pounds See p 295 • Unalaska: Beyond the road system, Unalaska has the biggest halibut See p 421 • Kodiak Island: The bears are so big here because they live on an island that’s crammed with spawning salmon in the summer Kodiak has the best roadside salmon fishing in Alaska, and the remote fishing,... soapstone carvings are not made in Alaska Even less expensive craftwork should bear the name of the person who made it, and the shop owner should be able to tell you how he or she acquired the item The Alaska State Council on the Arts (& 907/269-6610) authenticates Native arts and crafts with a silver hand label, which assures you it was made by the hands of an Alaska Native with Alaskan materials But the program... See p 132 • The Alaska State Museum (Juneau): This richly endowed museum doesn’t just show off its wealth of objects—it also uses them to teach about the state A visit will put Alaska s Native cultures and pioneer history entirely in context See p 146 • Anchorage Museum of History and Art: Alaska s largest museum has the room and expertise to tell the story of Native and white history in Alaska, and to... all my life, I often envy the stories visitors tell me about the Alaskan places they have gone to and what happened there No one owns Alaska, and most of us are newcomers here In all this immensity, a visitor fresh off the boat is just as likely as a lifelong resident to see or do something amazing 1 The Best Views • A First Sight of Alaska: Flying north from Seattle, you’re in clouds, so you concentrate . . . . .16 Planning Your Trip to Alaska 17 2 Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Alaska 1 The Best of Alaska 5 1 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .17 Alaska by the Numbers . . . . Cruising . . .79 5 The Big-Ship Cruise Lines . . . . . .79 Cruising Alaska s Coast 65 4 Southeast Alaska 86 5 1 Exploring Southeast Alaska . . . .87 2 Ketchikan: On the Waterfront . . .94 Fast Facts:. Denali Wilderness Lodges . . . .355 The Alaskan Interior 358 9 1 Exploring the Interior . . . . . . . .359 Alaska s Highways a la Carte . . .360 2 Fairbanks: Alaska Heartland . . . .362 Fast Facts: