HUNTER Bruce & June Conord HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC, 130 Campus Drive, Edison, NJ 08818 % 732/225-1900; 800/255-0343; fax 732/417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com Windsor Books The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England % 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133 Ulysses Travel Publications 4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec Canada H2W 2M5 % 514/843-9447; fax 514/843-9448 ISBN 1-58843-290-4 © 2002 Hunter Publishing, Inc. This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books in a variety of digital formats through our on-line partners, including NetLibrary, PublicationsUnbound.com, Amazon.com, BarnesandNoble.com and eBooks.com. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, elec- tronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and compa - nies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the pub - lisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or po - tential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omis - sions are the result of negligence, accident or any other cause. Cover photo: Reptile © Jeffrey Cable/SuperStock Index by Wolff Indexing All other images © Bruce and June Conord Maps by Kim MacKinnon & Kim André, © 2002 Hunter Publishing, Inc. 1234 Dedication Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has. ~ Margaret Mead, American anthropologist To the men, women, and children around the world who do their best to conserve and protect our precious environment for future generations – theirs is the silent green army; and to them, this book is dedicated. Acknowledgments Although Costa Rica is a small country, its diverse geography and plentiful eco-adventure tourism opportunities made writing a well- researched guidebook quite a challenge. We could never have done it without the help of the Costa Rica Tourist Board (ICT) and Deb- bie Drachner, their resident public relations maven. Thank you all very much. Individual parks and attractions made themselves available to us on short notice and we thank them. We are also grateful to all the Ticos and expats who gave freely of their time and made us feel so very welcome wherever we went. We must sin- gle out Allan Templeton in Manuel Antonio and Thomas Douglas in San José for particular generosity. Linda Gray in Cocos gave us her time, and our personal thanks for years of friendship and hos- pitality go to Hilda Castro and family in Cedros. Then, of course, our gratitude goes to our editor, Kim André, whose support and encouragement – and fine editing – keeps us on track. Lastly, we would like to thank you, our readers, for choosing this guidebook – it’s the highest kind of praise! Gracias. Author Profile A wandering minstrel I – A thing of shreds and patches, Of ballads, songs, snatches, And dreamy lullaby! ~ The Mikado, Gilbert and Sullivan, 1885 T he Conords have been traveling and writing about their journeys for years. They enjoy adventure and ecological travel, as well as histori- cal and cultural forays in foreign lands. Their other Hunter titles, Adven - ture Guide to the Yucatán and Cancún, Cozumel & The Riviera Maya Alive! garnered critical acclaim and won several prestigious travel writ - ing and photography awards from the North American Travel Journal - ists’ Association. Bruce went to Rutgers University and has written biographies of John Lennon, Bill Cosby and Cesar Chavez. He has worked as an import man- ager, teacher, advertising executive, copywriter and publisher’s repre- sentative. Writing, photography, soccer and travel are his passions. June grew up in southwest England and went to Plymouth Art College. Whenever she gets near the ocean, she feels happy. Her professional credits include numerous newspaper and magazine articles and stock photography. She has edited, photographed and worked alongside Bruce in many of their joint efforts to eke out a living and travel more. For re- laxation, she could happily spend all day on a pebble beach, poking a stick in rock pools and collecting shells. Their individual work is represented by a stock photography agency and together their photographs of Mexico have been featured at an exhibit in the prestigious New York Arts Club. Contents INTRODUCTION 1 How to Use This Book 2 Prices 3 Very Useful Web Information 3 Costa Rica At A Glance 5 Costa Rica’s Top 20 Spots 7 Suggested Destinations 12 Surfing Safaris 17 Wild Windsurfing 20 Fantastic Fishing 20 Living or Retiring in Costa Rica 22 Considerations 22 Real Estate Concerns 23 Master Plan for Your Visa 24 Information Sources 26 Gay & Lesbian Travel 26 Travel Essentials 27 Measurements 27 Entry Requirements 29 Passports 29 What to Take 32 Customs & Immigration 34 WaytoGo 34 Flying to Costa Rica 34 Recommended Operators 35 Coming & Going 36 THE LAND BETWEEN THE OCEANS 37 Geography 38 Mountains 40 Rivers 40 Beaches 41 Volcanoes, Nature’s Hot Spots 42 Earthquakes 44 Environment 45 Climate 45 Ecology 45 Eco-tourism 48 It’s Not Easy Being Green 48 The Certificate of Sustainable Tourism 49 National Parks, Reserves, Preserves & Refuges 50 Flora 53 Trees 54 Rainforests 56 Flowers, Fruit & Fragrance 57 Orchids 58 Fauna 59 Primates 60 Cats 61 Sloths 62 Turtles 63 Birds & Butterflies 64 THE PEOPLE, THEIR HISTORY 67 History 68 People Before Time 68 The Conquest 70 Colonial Times 72 Democracy & Coffee 73 Bananas & the Jungle Train 75 Walker’s War 78 Modern Times 79 Civil War 80 Recent Memory 81 BEING THERE 83 Culture & Customs 84 Holidays & Fiestas 85 Food & Drink 89 Local Foods 89 Coffee, Beer & Batidos 90 Alternative Accommodations 92 Down on the Farm 92 Bed & Breakfasts 93 Hostels 93 Camping 94 Getting Around 96 Travel by Bus 96 San José & Vicinity 96 Around the Country 97 Car Rentals 97 Insurance 97 Rugged Terrain 98 Car Rental Companies 99 Hitchhiking 101 Cross-Country Flights 101 Learn Spanish in Costa Rica 102 Language Schools 102 Sports 104 Money Matters 106 Tipping 106 Gambling 107 Safety & Crime 107 Common-Sense Precautions 108 For Women Travelers 108 Health, Special Concerns 109 Telephones & the Internet 112 Just in Case 113 Credit Card Issues 113 Emergencies 113 Costa Rica Tourist Board 114 Embassies 114 Handy Hints 115 SAN JOSÉ 119 Orientation 120 A Walking Tour of San José 122 Adventures on a Shoestring 128 Local Adventures, Tours & Day-Trips 131 Tour Companies 131 Adventures in the Air 132 Adventures on Horseback 133 Adventures on Foot 133 Adventures on Water 135 Adventures for Children 138 Shopping 139 Nightlife 144 Places to Stay 147 Moderate Accommodations 148 Budget Accommodations 152 Other Choices 156 Outside of Town 157 Airport & Beyond 159 Places to Eat 160 San José 161 Escazú 164 THE CENTRAL VALLEY 167 East of Town 167 Cartago 167 Irazú Volcano 171 Lankester Gardens 172 Orosí 173 Lake Cachí & Ujarrás 176 Turrialba 177 West of Town 180 Heredia 180 Alajuela 183 Poás Volcano 185 Coffee Country 187 Grecia 187 Sarchí 188 Naranjo 189 San Ramón 190 Zarcero 191 Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) 192 NORTH BY NORTHWEST 195 Arenal Area 195 Arenal Volcano 195 La Fortuna 198 Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge 204 Lake Arenal 205 Tilarán 207 Backcountry 207 Monteverde 208 Monteverde Cloud Forest 208 Bosque Nuboso de Los Niños 212 Santa Elena Rainforest Reserve 213 Santa Elena Pueblo 213 Liberia & Guanacaste 219 Liberia 219 Northern National Parks 222 Palo Verde National Park 222 Lomas Barbudal 223 Rincón de la Vieja National Park 224 Guanacaste National Park 227 Santa Rosa National Park 227 NICOYA PENINSULA 231 Northern Peninsula 232 Playa Hermosa Area 232 Playa Hermosa 232 Playa Panama 233 Playa del Coco 233 Playa Ocotal 235 Playa Flamingo Area Beaches 235 Playa Tamarindo 237 Playa Grande 244 Playa Junquillal 245 Central Peninsula 246 Santa Cruz & Nicoya 246 Barra Honda National Park 248 Playa Sámara 248 Playa Nosara 252 Southern Peninsula 255 Playa Naranjo 255 Karen Morgenson Reserve 256 Curú National Wildlife Refuge 256 Playa Tambor 257 Montezuma 258 Leaving Town 263 Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve 265 Malpais & Santa Teresa 265 PACIFICA 267 Puntarenas 269 Jacó 274 Quepos & Manuel Antonio National Park 279 Quepos 280 Manuel Antonio National Park 282 Adventures on Water 286 Adventures on Land 287 Nightlife 288 Odd & Ends 289 Places to Stay & Eat 290 Dominical 298 Hacienda Baru 300 Nauyaca Waterfalls 301 Uvita & Playa Bahia 301 Talamanca Mountains 302 Along the Cerro de la Muerte 303 San Isidro de General 306 Chirripó National Park 308 CARIBBEAN COAST 313 Braulio Carrillo National Park 314 Rara Avis Reserve 316 La Selva & Sarapiquí 317 Tortuguero National Park 321 Barra Colorado & Parismina 326 Limón 327 Cahuita 331 Hitoy-Cerere Biological Reserve 334 Puerto Viejo 335 Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge 340 The Frontier – Panama 341 ZONA SUR, THE SOUTH PACIFIC 343 Osa Peninsula 344 Drake Bay 345 Isla Caño 348 Corcovado National Park 348 Puerto Jiménez 351 Golfito 354 Golfo Dulce 355 Playa Zancudo 357 Pavones 358 Panama or Bust 359 Parque Internacional La Amistad 359 Boruca Country 360 San Vito 361 APPENDIX 363 Useful Websites 363 Rainy Day Reading 364 Showtime 366 Recipes to Try at Home 367 Spanish Vocabulary 368 Transportation Schedules & Fares 372 San José to Surrounding Towns 373 International Services 379 INDEX 381 [...]... expensive, but a good way to see Costa Rica outside of San José You should buy all the insurance offered – and then some Costa Rica s Top 20 Spots n 7 ■ Costa Rica s Top 20 Spots Adventure today means finding one’s way back to the silence and stillness of a thousand years ago ~ Pico Iyer, NY Times magazine Our list of “Top 20 Things to Do or See” is a guide to the best that Costa Rica has to offer It’s not... Living in Costa Rica, by Christopher Howard (www.liveincostarica.com) The Official Guide to Living and Making Money in Costa Rica, by Christine Pratt (a Tico Times reporter) The Legal Guide to Costa Rica, by Roger Petersen Choose Costa Rica for Retirement, by John Howells Maybe we’ll write one someday For more about Costa Rican laws for real estate and residency information, visit www.costaricalaw.com/legalnet/realty.html... luxury of visiting Costa Rica for much longer periods of time than most tourists dream of Consequently, at the risk of suggesting too much, we have to bite our tongue when it comes to preparing itineraries Our first recommendation is not to cram too much into one trip It’s better to come back again If you are traveling around to different regions, think in terms of a trip from San José that touches what... You might prefer to drink bottled water (agua purificada) or seltzer (agua mineral) to be sure Costa Rica has excellent, low-cost medical care and well-qualified practitioners Many North Americans come to Costa Rica for cosmetic surgery or dental work SAFETY & CRIME: Costa Rica is a safe destination for 99% of its tourists, but it’s always a good idea to exercise caution whenever one travels In general,... good resources include www.costarica.com, www.centralamerica.com and www.bruncas.com Gay and lesbian travel info can be found at www.hometown.aol.com/gaycrica /guide. html For a roundup of hotels, log on to www.hotels.co.cr or the useful www.yellowweb co.cr If you want to keep up with news in Costa Rica, look every Friday at www.ticotimes.com and check daily on www.amcostarica.com, where you can sign... Useful Web Information There’s tons of information available Make sure you read our Handy Hints section on page 115 And, if you plan to rent a car, please read our driving tips on page 99 There are several sources of Costa Rican information on the web The government’s official site is www.tourism-costarica.com If you’d like to have a Costa Rica tourism brochure mailed to you, call them at % 800/ 343-6332... that cater to birdwatchers Practically all mountain na- Costa Rica s Top 20 Spots n 9 9 IRAZU VOLCANO: The 11,260-foot-tall Irazú Volcano is the highest in Costa Rica and still considered active, even though its last major eruption was on March 19, 1963, the day that President John F Kennedy arrived in Costa Rica Today, a few puffs of steam and smoke are the most activity you’re likely to see To get here... a logical itinerary or get right into the details of specific adventures Unless you’re just going to one area, travel in Costa Rica always involves passing through the Central Valley The best way to think of it is as a spoked wheel, with San José as the hub You can see a lot of the country if you are based in the capital Costa Rica is small enough to get from coast to coast in one long day of driving,... at the US Embassy or the American -Costa Rican Chamber of Commerce (% 506/220-2200, www.amcham.co.cr) for recommendations Also see the Association of Costa Rican Residents, below Real estate agents are not required to have a license You should choose one that is registered with the Costa Rican Chamber of Realtors (% 506/283-0191, caccbr@sol.racsa.co.cr) Unfortunately, Costa Rica has more than its fair... banks, and so on, in Costa Rica The reluctance of Costa Ricans to be confrontational can also perplex newcomers Ticos may seem to agree to one thing, but then do another It’s not a unique Tico trait; we know many people who do the same here in the States Overall, the people of Costa Rica are open, friendly, honest, caring, peace-loving and fun-loving 24 n Living or Retiring in Costa Rica Some people make . Lesbian Travel 26 Travel Essentials 27 Measurements 27 Entry Requirements 29 Passports 29 What to Take 32 Customs & Immigration 34 WaytoGo 34 Flying to Costa Rica 34 Recommended Operators 35 Coming. www.tourism-costarica.com. If you’d like to have a Costa Rica tourism brochure mailed to you, call them at % 800/ 343-6332. Other good resources include www.costarica.com, www.central- america.com and www.bruncas.com Many North Americans come to Costa Rica for cos- metic surgery or dental work. SAFETY & CRIME: Costa Rica is a safe destination for 99% of its tourists, but it’s always a good idea to exercise