ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW AND NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE. With Photographs and Diagrams. EDITED BY CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE. LONDON: WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C 1910. DEDICATED To all THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED, who take a real interest in the Company. PREFACE. In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa Fé Land Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published. Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several members of the staff of the Santa Fé Land Company aided me by writing some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina, and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them, and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no means the least interesting part. The final portion of the book—Leaves from a journal entitled "The Tacuru"—is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some of the Northern lands of the Santa Fé Land Company, and it is included because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was originally intended solely for their own private edification and amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned, was not all luxury. To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere thanks. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE. LAWFORD PLACE,MANNINGTREE, ESSEX,December, 1910. CONTENTS.  ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW  HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.  THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.  REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.  SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.  THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.  CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.  HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.  SUNDAYS IN CAMP.  THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.  POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.  A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.  WORK IN THE WOODS.  CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS.  MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.  DUST AND OTHER STORMS.  LOCUSTS.  CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.  ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.  PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.  JUST MY LUCK!  "THE TACURU." LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.  CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY, BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA  LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE "BARRANCA"  SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE  WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA  WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING  LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION  WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY  THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES  TENNIS PARTY AT VERA  CARNIVAL AT VERA  "A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT"  SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING RESIN OOZING THEREFROM  LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES  HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION  STACKING ALFALFA  ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK  THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA  HERD OF CATTLE  EXPANSE OF ALFALFA  DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK  ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER  PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP  HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER  CATTLE LEAVING DIP  CROSSING THE SALADO  THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT  REFINED CAMPS  "RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL"  WATER KNEE-DEEP  QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE  SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA  TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY  SOME OF THE HORSES  "AWFUL FLOOD"  ON THE WAY TO OLMOS LIST OF DIAGRAMS.  IMMIGRATION RETURNS  AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION  CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES  VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF ARGENTINA, 1900-09 ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW. Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country, exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of £79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of £60,000,000. This fact arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the saving power of the country. It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: "Are these £79,000,000 worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?" It would be difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to £48,000,000, and England pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods, such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep industry, amounted to no less a figure than £23,000,000. All these exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of £1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to Argentina in 1908 was £16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, oils, and paints), therefore it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina. New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country after allowing for emigration):— Yearly Average. From 1860 to 1869 (inclusive) 15,044 " 1870 " 1879 " 29,462 " 1880 " 1889 " 84,586 " 1890 " 1899 " 43,618 " 1900 " 1909 " 100,998 Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909. Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes. Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of railways in the United States helped him to realise their great possibilities in Argentina; but, strange to say, upon his return to his native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became such great "Railway Kings" in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with Messrs. Ogilvie & Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey, Ogilvie, Wythes & Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863; afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road still holds good in Argentina. The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores, 5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880 the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles. The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as follows:— In 1901 there were 10,565 miles of railway. " 1902 " " 10,868 " " " " 1903 " " 11,500 " " " " 1904 " " 12,140 " " " " 1905 " " 12,370 " " " " 1906 " " 12,850 " " " " 1907 " " 13,829 " " " " 1908 " " 14,825 " " " " 1909 " " 15,937 [A] " " " 12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital investment of £170,000,000. In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable for the cultivation of corn. When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to acquire wealth—except at the expense of broken heads. There was a standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle possessed wealth. The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well, so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before, but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers; it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and yearly increasing exports possible. In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth, railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that, the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent of £48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and asses represent a value of nearly £130,000,000. The following table shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:— Per Head. Cattle in 1885 were valued at an average of $13 [B] " 1908 " " " 32 Sheep in 1885 " " " 2 " 1908 " " " 4 Horses in 1885 " " " 11 " 1908 " " " 25 [...]... better return, and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and the harvest When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon Alfalfa is one of the clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those micro-organisms which are able to fix... per acre The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a value on its feeding properties Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as the fattened animals are sold off an... concerning the inspection of factories, but they should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago was directed against the North American packing houses and for a. .. in Argentina of the same importance has shown such good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle farmer All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and generally... Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen up Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S .A will steadily show a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following table throws some light upon the wheat position:—... feeding of cattle and preparing them for market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head When grown for dry fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair yield is from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year A ton of such hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a clear return of about... suitable for food for plant life As a dry fodder for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons of wheat The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not; but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land... called for Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character better than that which gives him the privilege of "grumbling," and this characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one of his own kith and kin I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who, they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at the same time they have told me that...Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few years, and. .. those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough, and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize After a time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better . AT WAYSIDE STATION  WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY  THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES  TENNIS PARTY AT VERA  CARNIVAL AT VERA  " ;A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT". ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW AND NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE. With Photographs and Diagrams. EDITED BY CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE. LONDON: WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CLIFTON HOUSE,. city of Buenos Aires each day for consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports butter. This trade has