Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood The Project Gutenberg EBook of Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Glories of Spain Author: Charles W. Wood Release Date: October 3, 2010 [EBook #33833] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GLORIES OF SPAIN *** Produced by Chuck Greif, the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net, the Internet Archive & Google Books. GLORIES OF SPAIN [Illustration: INTERIOR OF ZARAGOZA CATHEDRAL.] GLORIES OF SPAIN Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood 1 BY CHARLES W. WOOD, F.R.G.S., AUTHOR OF "LETTERS FROM MAJORCA," "IN THE VALLEY OF THE RHONE," ETC., ETC. [Illustration] WITH EIGHTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. London MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1901 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED. STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. CONTENTS. Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood 2 CHAPTER I. AT THE GARE D'ORLÉANS. On Calais quay At the Custom-house A lady of the past Ungallant examiner Better to reign than serve Paris Vanity Fair Sowing and reaping Laughing through life At the Hôtel Chatham A pleasant picture In maiden meditation M. Pascal is wise in his generation The secrets of the Seine Notre Dame Ile St. Louis A mediæval atmosphere Victor Hugo Ghosts of the Hôtel Lambert H. C. again His little comedy M. the Inspector Outraged ladies "En voiture, messieurs!" Mystery not cleared The Orléanais La Vendée Garden of France A dilemma Polite Chef de Gare Crossing the Garonne Land of corn and wine 1 CHAPTER I. 3 CHAPTER II. A NARBONNE HOSTESS. Carcassonne In feudal times Simon de Montfort Canal du Midi L'âge d'or et le Grand Monarque A modern Golden Fleece One of earth's fair scenes Choice of evils M. le Chef yields Narbonne A woman of parts The course of true love runs smooth Diner de contrat Honey versus the lune de miel Madame's philosophy L'Allée des Soupirs An unfinished cathedral At the gloaming hour Mystery and devotion The Hôtel de Ville A domestic drama High festival and champagne The next morning H. C. repentant Madame at her post Ambrosial breakfast "Il faut payer pour ses plaisirs" Dramatic exit Perpignan Home of the kings of Majorca Elne "Adieu, ma chère France!" Over the frontier Gerona Crowded platform What H. C. thought Unpoetical incident From the sublime to the ridiculous 12 CHAPTER II. 4 CHAPTER III. BLACK COFFEE AND A CONFESSION. Continued uproar H. C. disillusioned A dark night Not like another Cæsar More crowds A demon scene Fair time Glorious days of the past In marble halls and labyrinthine passages Our excellent host His substantial partner Contented minds Picturesque court Songless nightingales Conscription H. C.'s modesty Our host appreciative but personal Bears the torch of genius A mistake Below the salt Host's fair daughters Catalonian women The Silent Enigma Remarkable priest Good intentions Lecture on black coffee Confessions Benjamin's portions A gifted nature 27 CHAPTER III. 5 CHAPTER IV. A NIGHT VISION. Wrong turnings H. C.'s gifts and graces Out at night The arcades of Gerona At the fair Ancient outlines Demons at work In the dry bed of the river Roasting chestnuts Mediæval outlines In the vortex Clairvoyantes and lion-tamers Clown's despair Deserted streets Vision of the night Haunted staircase Dark and dangerous A small grievance The reeds by the river Cry of the watchmen Hare and hounds Fair Rosamund Jacob's ladder New rendering to old proverbs Cathedral by night H. C. oblivious Scent fails Return to earth Romantic story Last of a long line El Sereno! The witching hour H. C. unserenaded Next morning Grey skies A false prophet Magic picture Cathedral by day Mediæval dreams 41 CHAPTER IV. 6 CHAPTER V. GERONA THE BEAUTIFUL. A Gerona señora Grace and charm Lord of creation Morning greeting Arcades and ancient houses Conscription Gerona a discovery Streets of steps Ancient eaves and rare ironwork Old-world corner Desecrated church Gothic cloisters Ghosts of the past Visions of to-day Soldiers interested "Happy as kings" Lingerings Colonel seeks explanation No lover of antiquity More conscription Dramatic scene Pedro to the rescue Mother and son Sad story Strong and merciful Pedro grateful Restricted interests Colonel becomes impenetrable again 58 CHAPTER V. 7 CHAPTER VI. ANSELMO THE PRIEST. Beauties of age Apostles' Doorway How the old bishops kept out of temptation Interior of cathedral Its vast nave Days of Charlemagne And of the Moors A giant dwarfed Rare choir Surly priest And a more kindly Our showman Dazzling treasures Father Anselmo Romantic story Heaven or the world? Doubts The gentle Rosalie decides Sister Anastasia Told in the sacristy A heart-confession Anselmo's mysticism Heresy Charms of antiquity Scene of his triumph Celestial vision Church of San Pedro Pagan interior Rare cloisters Desecrated church Singular scene Chiaroscuro Miguel the carpenter His opinions Daily life a religion Anselmo improves his opportunity "A reflected light" Ruined citadel War of succession Alvarez and Marshall Gerona in decadence A revelation Dreamland Midday vision 72 CHAPTER VI. 8 CHAPTER VII. A DAY OF ENCOUNTERS. "Can a prophet come out of Galilee?" The unexpected happens Under the probe Wise reservation Born to command Contrasts Nothing new under the sun The señora prepares for the fair Grievance not very deep seated Bewitching appearance Señora dramatic Ernesto Marriage a lottery Every cloud its silver lining Gerona en fête Delormais' mission Deceptive appearances Evils of conscription Ernesto's ambition Les beaux jours de la vie Rosalie A fair picture Strange similarity Heavenwards Anastasia or Rosalie Her dreams and visions Modern Paul and Virginia Eternal possession A Gerona saint The better part More heresy Fénélon One creed, one worship Not peace but a sword Not dead to the world Angel of mercy H. C. mistaken Earthly idyll 99 CHAPTER VII. 9 CHAPTER VIII. MOTHER AND SON. Demons at work In the crowd Ernesto and his mother Roasted chestnuts Instrument of torture New school of anatomy Rhine-stones or diamonds? Happy mother Honest confession Danger of edged tools Cayenne lozenges for the monkeys Joseph Early compliments Ernesto pleads in vain Down by the river Music of the reeds Rich prospect Faust Singers of the world Joseph takes tickets Gerona keeps late hours Its little great world Between the acts Successful evening In the dark night On the bridge Silence and solitude Astral bodies Joseph turns Job's comforter Magnetism Delormais psychological Alone in the streets Saluting the Church militant Haunted staircase again Sighs and rustlings H. C. retires "Drink to me only with thine eyes" Delormais' challenge Leads the way Illumination Coffee equipage "Only the truth is painful" Lost in reverie 114 CHAPTER VIII. 10 [...]... the station Kindly offer Glorious sunset Loretta's good-bye "What shall it be?" Flying moments As the train rolls off 430 CHAPTER XXX 32 CHAPTER XXX THE GARDEN OF SPAIN Charms of Tarragona Dream of the past Quasimodo comes not Of another world Host's offer Francisco inconsolable A mixed sorrow No more holidays List of grievances Fair scene Luxuriance of the South Hospitalet Pilgrims of the Middle Ages... gets worst of it Picturesque decay Gothic cloisters Visions of beauty Rare wilderness King Martin the Humble Bacchanalian days When the monks quaffed Malvoisie Simple grandeur of the church Philip Duke of Wharton Cistercian monastery History of Poblet the monk Monastery becomes celebrated Tombs of the kings of Aragon Guardian sceptical Paradise or wilderness Monks all-powerful Escorial of Aragon The... gratitude In the Calle de Fernando A last favour Glories of Spain Eastern benediction 481 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE INTERIOR OF ZARAGOZA CATHEDRAL Frontispiece PEDRO 23 THE BOULEVARD: GERONA 31 ARCADES: GERONA 42 VIEW OF GERONA FROM THE STONE BRIDGE 43 BANKS OF THE OÑAR: GERONA 47 APOSTLES' DOORWAY, CATHEDRAL: GERONA 51 A FRAGMENT OUTSIDE THE WALLS OF GERONA 59 STREETS IN GERONA 61, 101, 103, 123... the Saint Tomb of Sheikh Saleh Pools of Solomon Jerusalem the Golden Bethel Lebanon Home again Fresh scenes Algeria Hanging gardens of the Sahel Mount Bubor and its glories Rash act At the twilight hour Earthly paradise Fair Eve Fervent love Arouya Nature's revenge Not to last Eternal requiem of the sea In the backwoods Hunting wolves Prairies of California Honolulu Active volcanoes Lake of fire Rare... diseased? Sunshine clouded Burden of life Any way of escape? Suggestions of past centuries The mighty fallen 329 CHAPTER XXIII 25 CHAPTER XXIII IN ZARAGOZA Bygone days Sumptuous roosting Old exchange Traders of taste Glory of Aragon Cathedral of La Seo Modernised exterior Interior charms and mesmerises Next to Barcelona Magnifice effect Parish church Moorish ceiling Tomb of Bernardo de Aragon The old priest... Supernatural effect Statuette of Benedict XIII. Mysterious chiaroscuro One exception Alonza the Warrior Moorish tiles Bishop's palace Frugal meal Trace of old Zaragoza Fifteenth century house Juanita Streets of the city Cæsarea Augusta Worship of the Virgin Alonzo the Moor Determined resistance Days of struggle Falling Return to prosperity Fair maid of Zaragoza The Aljaferia Ancient palace of the Moorish kings... RAMBLA: BARCELONA 187 INTERIOR OF CORO, GERONA CATHEDRAL 191 PULPIT AND STALLS, BARCELONA CATHEDRAL 195 TWILIGHT IN BARCELONA CATHEDRAL 199 SMALL CLOISTER OR PATIO: BARCELONA 205 CLOISTERS OF SANTA ANNA: BARCELONA 207 CLOISTERS OF SAN PABLO: BARCELONA 209 MONISTROL 217 CHURCH OF MONTSERRAT 231, 239 CLOISTERS OF MONTSERRAT 235 SALVADOR THE MONK 241 VALLEY OF MONTSERRAT 251 A FEW OF THE GIPSIES AT MONTSERRAT... LUCIA'S HOUSE: ZARAGOZA 333, 337 BRIDGE AND CATHEDRAL OF EL PILAR: ZARAGOZA 339 AN OLD NOOK IN ZARAGOZA 345 NORTH WALL OF CATHEDRAL: ZARAGOZA 347 TOWER OF LA SEO: ZARAGOZA 351 INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL, SHOWING CORO AND ORGAN: ZARAGOZA 359 SOUTH-WEST EXTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL: TARRAGONA 373 EAST END OF CATHEDRAL, SHOWING NORMAN APSE: TARRAGONA 377 INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL: TARRAGONA 381 CLOISTERS: TARRAGONA 385,... Debt of gratitude Treasure-house of strength Given to hospitality First great sorrow Passing away Resolve to travel "I can no more" The old Adam dies hard Chance decides 130 CHAPTER X 12 CHAPTER X DELORMAIS' ROMANCE Rome Count Albert Happy months Sweets of companionship Egypt Strange things Quiet weeks Sinai Freedom of the desert Crossing the Red Sea Mount Serbal Convent of St Catherine In the Valley of. .. sunset Superstition End of 1835 418 CHAPTER XXIX 31 CHAPTER XXIX LORENZO Day visions All passes away End of the feast Francisco gathers up the fragments Ghosts of the past Outside the monastery Oasis in a desert After the vintage Francisco gleans Guilty conscience Custom of country Dessert Primitive watering-place Off to the fair Groans and lamentations Sagacious animal Cause of sorrows Rage and anger . Internet Archive & Google Books. GLORIES OF SPAIN [Illustration: INTERIOR OF ZARAGOZA CATHEDRAL.] GLORIES OF SPAIN Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood 1 BY CHARLES. Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood The Project Gutenberg EBook of Glories of Spain, by Charles W. Wood This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere