... v 2 =−g∂η 2 ∂x−τbotxh 2 ρ 2 ∂v 2 ∂t+u 2 ∂v 2 ∂x+v 2 ∂v 2 ∂y+ fu 2 =−g∂η 2 ∂y−τbotyh 2 ρ 2 (6. 72) ∂η 2 ∂t+∂(u 2 h 2 )∂x+∂(v 2 h 2 )∂y= 0where g= (ρ 2 − ρ1)/ρ 2 g ... 20 , 21 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 62, 68, 69, 87, 121 , 128 plane, 21 , 96refraction, 95–98shoaling, 85standing, 25 , 86, 131Wavelength, 20 , 21 , 24 , 25 , 61, 62, 67, 68, 69,71, 73, 85, 87, 96, 98, 121 , 128 , ... 1 12 VVorticityplanetary, 126 , 127 absolute, 126 relative, 125 , 126 , 127 , 130, 131, 1 42, 153,155, 158, 160potential, 124 , 126 – 127 , 130, 153, 154, 156WWavecircular, 94interference, 25 26 period,...